7.3 IDIT are suppose to leak

Thewespaul

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That inlet fitting is sealed with an o ring, R&D idi and Conestoga Diesel both sell better options for the inlet fitting, I personally prefer the one R&D sells with pushlok fittings.
 

rewbrooks50

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I put a small ac o-ring on the line between the nut and olive. Still leaking and maybe more. I couldn’t get the line fitting out of the IP to check the seat.

It is leaking where the steel line goes into the nut fitting. It can only be the steel line or the inlet fitting on the IP.

Suggestions. Are there any better lines?
 

IDIBRONCO

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I put a small ac o-ring on the line between the nut and olive. Still leaking and maybe more. I couldn’t get the line fitting out of the IP to check the seat.
You can use a 3/4" socket and a ratchet to remove this fitting.
 

rewbrooks50

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My inlet line from the filter head to IP is not leaking. My leak is the #4 IP to injector line at the IP outlet fitting.

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Are any seals that go into the nuts? I don't think so. The second picture is the end that is leaking. I cleaned the ends and did not find any deep cuts in the olive or ball end.
 
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dgr

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That sucks. I'd pull one from a spare pump. I know that doesn't help you which sucks more. There is no seal in there. It is a steel to steel compression fit. If a guy had the fitting removed and an old line, he could lap the fitting with some clover compound. No way I would try that on the truck.

That isn't an olive, fyi. An olive is a low pressure, vibration resistant seal. It looks like a short piece of vacuum hose.
 

dgr

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Did you install it without an o-ring on the backside of the flare? This is a ridgid connection.....
 

Macrobb

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Are any seals that go into the nuts? I don't think so. The second picture is the end that is leaking. I cleaned the ends and did not find any deep cuts in the olive or ball end.
These high pressure lines have no seal, no rubber at all. It's a flare fitting - clamping it down forces the two taper surfaces together and the softer surface(usually the line) will deform slightly to match any imperfections between them.
 
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rewbrooks50

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That looks like a Pensacola line, the aftermarket lines don’t fit like the stanadyne lines, I’ll get one to you in the morning.

I replaced all the lines about 3 years ago from Accurate Diesel. This is the first problem I have had.
 

eacars

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My 94 F250 always has a leak somewhere. Added 6.0 trans cooler and leaked after a few days. Removed the front grill and support and bumper three times to stop the leak. The oil pan plug leaked. Wes sent me a new one. Fuel rubber lines to the electric pump leaked. Then the water pump started leaking. Replace the pump and hoses. The ac has a slow leak. In process of replacing the system. Now, a fuel injector line is leaking at the IP. I am thinking of not repairing the fuel leak so nothing else will.


Yes, Fuel lines seem to be about every 3-4 years, depending on how careful you size/cut the lines. Other leaks happen...Water pumps, valve covers...Back when these were made, they didn't employ O-rings on sealing motor parts like the new power plants.
Quit your whining. Look at the positive....
 

Tumbleweed210

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Right-On...THIS I WHY I JOINED THIS FORUM!

Real "like-it-or-don't" type USEFUL INFORMATION....everyone gettin down and helpin a IDI brother (or sister) out!

BTW: if'n you work that nut back up the line (careful like)...You might be able to see just how that double flare (some would call it a bubble flare) is damaged. Its been my observation that damage is caused by overly-tightening the nut, and there'd be a groove present...whereby causing said leakage.

AND THE DISCLAIMER: SHOULD ONE (THAT'D BE YOU OR ANY OTHER READER...AD INFINITUM)...ATTEMPT SUCH REPAIR AS DISCRIBED, AFTER CAREFUL CONSIDERATION OF YOUR PATICULAR SITUATION...SUCCCESS MAY VARY.

I have repaired these types of connections on a few different applications by vigorously cleaning the groove (gots to be shiny clean) and with either a MAPP gas torch or Oxy-fuel -Flame Thrand BRAZING ROD...Just dabs til the aberration is filled; then lightly sanding with 400/600 wet-er-dry...til yer double-flare is symmetrical once again.

Or you could just replace it...:bail
Oh...the pics of the lines showed up late to the party....durned phone.
 
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