7.3 IDI Turbo Tune-Up

[BigDogIDI]

As much as I’d love to avoid it, my pickup is ready for a tune up. What injectors, ip, and glow plugs would you guys recommend? Anything else I should replace? (My CDR looks new-ish). I only drink/leak about a quart of oil every 2300 miles.

 

[DrCharles]

Glow plugs: Motorcraft/Beru ZD-9 only. NEVER Autolite from the parts store!

 

[pelky350]

Fuel system parts, r and d idi, typ4 or conestoga diesel. No eBay or parts house stuff it's almost never any good

 

[Thewespaul]

Okay, big difference between a tune up and a complete fuel system replacement. Are you having issues with your injectors or ip? Or do you feel your truck should be performing better and you think it just needs some love?

Best “tune up” you can do for these trucks is buying a timing set and getting the timing where it needs to be. Next think would to be buy a pryo and do some tuning with the fuel screw to get the power and economy where you want I to be.

 

[icanfixall]

Can you tell the forum the miles on the injection pump and injectors? Please tell us why you "think" it needs a tune up...

 

[BigDogIDI]

I don’t know the mileage on injectors or IP. They were supposedly replaced two owners ago.... Previous owner repalced glow plugs, and with the manual relay I installed, I know they’re still good. It probably doesn’t NEED a “tune up” yet, but when I leave for school I want to make sure it’s not gonna be an issue when I need the pickup for a DD. I just want to get some info now, so I know what to buy later. I definitely would like to adjust the idle though. It idles around 550 and I would prefer it to be at 650. How do I go about that?

 

[Runningaford]

I don’t know the mileage on injectors or IP. They were supposedly replaced two owners ago.... Previous owner repalced glow plugs, and with the manual relay I installed, I know they’re still good. It probably doesn’t NEED a “tune up” yet, but when I leave for school I want to make sure it’s not gonna be an issue when I need the pickup for a DD. I just want to get some info now, so I know what to buy later. I definitely would like to adjust the idle though. It idles around 550 and I would prefer it to be at 650. How do I go about that?

I'd say return fuel line kit; when I was simply monkeying around in my engine bay, I bumped my return lines, they were old, and presto, air in the system. I didn't believe it, and I really couldn't believe it when after ordering a kit from @typ4, that indeed it was just some flimsy hoses that caused my beast to just drop dead without a thing done to it. Hell, right now as I'm a sipping my night cap, it's hard to believe what a small little bump to those lines can do!

EDIT: as far as I know, you can adjust the idle on the passenger side of the IP, look at the linkage, you'll see the screw, or I'm sure someone here has a pic of it.

 

[BigDogIDI]

Actually just the injectors were replaced, I believe...

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Do you know where they were purchased or can you find out? If not from the three previously listed sources, then I'd recommend going with some from one of them.

 

[Macrobb]

I'd say return fuel line kit; when I was simply monkeying around in my engine bay, I bumped my return lines, they were old, and presto, air in the system. I didn't believe it, and I really couldn't believe it when after ordering a kit from @typ4, that indeed it was just some flimsy hoses that caused my beast to just drop dead without a thing done to it. Hell, right now as I'm a sipping my night cap, it's hard to believe what a small little bump to those lines can do!

This is why, when replacing the O-rings, use high temp wheel bearing grease, instead of, say, Vasoline. The wheel bearing grease stays in place and permanately lubricates the O-rings; provides a nice seal even when you disturb or mess with the lines.
And, as the O-rings are Viton, the grease doesn't hurt them at all.

 

[vegas39]

Do you know where they were purchased or can you find out? If not from the three previously listed sources, then I'd recommend going with some from one of them.

The new stanadyne injectors from eBay are fine also, we are running two sets right now.
Had one bad one but I've had that happen from reputable shops also

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I guess if they're new, they should be fine.

 

[Macrobb]

Also, tuneup wise... Once you get an EGT gauge so that you know if you are pushing it too hard, you can totally crank the fuel up on that pump.

A Factory turbo will handle a RD2-110 quite decently, and push ~250 at the wheels(around 320 at the crank). Vs, ~125 at the wheels stock(180 at the crank).
It's a big jump cost-wise for that pump, but man does it show. Factory pumps are good for around 200-220(maby), but it feels like there is a lot more 'area under the curve' with the RD2-110(the turbo is getting maxed out with that HP/fuel level). On mine, it doesn't smoke over around 2K RPM; under that you have to be careful, which is why I installed a Hypermax Smoke Puff Limiter to control fuel.

Even a good factory pump, cranked up, will make it feel quite strong - the RD2-90 IPs are quite nice.

The turbo IDIs were /very/ underfueled and under-rated; ford really didn't want to up-stage the Powerstroke. And it shows, when you can get more than a stock '02 Powerstroke(180-190 at the wheels) out of a turbo IDI with just fueling to match the added air.

 

[BigDogIDI]

I have an EGT and boost gauge, with plans to add a tranny temp guage. Mine has decent power, and doesn’t smoke at all. I might turn the pump up a little, just for fun.

 

[Rossroams]

Motorcraft plugs, new injectors, replace or slightly advance your pump if it seems to have retarded timing (white/grey smoke on hard acceleration), and maybe adjust the fuel a flat or two... Other than that, go with Maccrob's suggestion for a pump. Check your turbo for excessive play as well, I used a new CHRA housing on eBay for my stock turbo.