7.3 IDI Turbo Build for '87 Crew Cab Dually 4x4

bulletpruf

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Ok, just got off the phone with Justin at R&D IDI. When I told him what I wanted to do, he recommended an RD2-90 pump, the Stage 1 drop in turbo, Stage 1 camshaft, and some Stage 1 injectors. That's about $3k in parts, but I was expecting that. He recommended the turbo pistons (Mahle $750/set, can add ceramic coating on the top for $275) but he said only .020 and .030 were available right now. I need to call Mahle tomorrow to see if they have any standard bore available or in the queue. I'll also need a set of head studs; he has ARP stud kits for $585. Justin runs factory pistons and compression ratio up to 400 hp/800 ft lbs.

Justin told me to steer clear of the head that I have that's cracked between the valves, and also mentioned that the pre-cups on the market weren't the highest quality, so run the cracked ones (even if cracked past the fire ring) or harvest the pre-cups off the '88 NA head that's cracked and install these in the '94 heads. For valves, I need to source exhaust valves with the stellite face.

We talked about intercoolers and he mentioned that I should be fine if I keep an eye on EGTs and don't tow heavy.

Justin mentioned the cranks were different turbo and NA - same forging but turbo had more weight added to balance. Apparently I can check the casting number to verify that the 1994 crank that I have is the turbo version.

The good news is that I can expect to make 250 hp and 550 ft/lbs at the wheels - manual trans - with the above setup. Hell, I would have been happy with 500 at the crank, so 550 at the wheels is mighty fine by me.
 

bulletpruf

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Some good news and some bad news today - bad news is that the crank from the 1994 IDI turbo engine that I disassembled is not the correct one for the turbocharged engine. It's a 1805420C1 (regular 6.9/7.3 crank) not the 1805420C2 turbo crank, which is balanced differently because of the heavier rods and different pistons.

I could try to source a C2 crank and proceed but I'm not hopeful that I'll find one. I could also buy new turbo pistons and then have everything balanced, which would set me back $350 or so + cost of mallory. It could easily end up costing $500.

However, if stayed with the stock NA bottom end, I could sell my turbo rods, use my existing pistons (30k original miles on the block), and wouldn't have to have anything balanced. That would be significant cost savings.

Obviously the turbo rods and pistons would be preferable, but there are plenty of these engines out there running turbos on stock bottom ends, and if I keep the boost and EGTs under control, I should be fine.
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The_Josh_Bear

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Subscribed. Love the plan, and the pics so far. Keep 'em coming!

I can say if you're gonna get 250/550 at the wheels *without* charge air cooling... you'll get a whole bunch more with it! I just have a cheap ebay universal kit and it woke up my setup a LOT. I was amazed at how much extra power there was without changing anything else. Even more surprising is how much the low-end woke up for me. Since it's really low PSI at early RPMs I wouldn't have thought there would be a big change but there is. And I've heard others on here say the same. So food for thought! You can always add one later, but it's easier from the ground up, of course.

Happy wrenching!
 

bulletpruf

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Subscribed. Love the plan, and the pics so far. Keep 'em coming!

I can say if you're gonna get 250/550 at the wheels *without* charge air cooling... you'll get a whole bunch more with it! I just have a cheap ebay universal kit and it woke up my setup a LOT. I was amazed at how much extra power there was without changing anything else. Even more surprising is how much the low-end woke up for me. Since it's really low PSI at early RPMs I wouldn't have thought there would be a big change but there is. And I've heard others on here say the same. So food for thought! You can always add one later, but it's easier from the ground up, of course.

Happy wrenching!

Good info, Josh. Since it looks like I'm going to keep the stock bottom end, I'm more inclined to intercool at this point. Agree that it's easier to plumb and install as the truck is coming back together.

Thanks
 

bulletpruf

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Measured valve recession today. All valves on both sets of heads are good to go.

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Also tested valvespring pressure; also good to go, but I'm pretty sure I'll end up changing these.

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bulletpruf

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Bottom end disassembled. Crank looks good. Pistons look good. Bearing are original - dated March 1988 (crank) and May 1988 (rods).

Next step is to clean, inspect, and magnaflux the crank and block.

Also need to get bearings and rings ordered. Bearings should be easy enough, what about rings? Anyone have any recommendations?

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IDIBRONCO

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Rock Auto shows Hastings, Sealed power and Mahle/Clevite rings. Any of those should be good to use. I like to use bigger names for items like engine parts.
 

bulletpruf

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Ended up with Sealed Power rod and main bearings. Was hoping to get Mahle/Clevite but their standard stuff was all backordered.

Ordered set of ARP head studs from Justin at R&D IDI.
 

bulletpruf

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Cleaned up the pistons today. I'm not a fan of wire wheeling them; used ultra fine ScotchBrite with some 50/50 (acetone/ATF). Skirts have all machining marks intact and no surprises hiding under the carbon on the crowns.

Hope to get the short block assembled this coming weekend.
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bulletpruf

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Got some ok news today and some bad news.

Ok news is that the deck of the 7.3 block is good, both sides. Less than .002" warp so it does't need to be decked. Just did the basic check with a good straightedge and a .002" feeler gauge.

Bad news happened after I cleaned the block. I was wiping down the cylinders in preparation for ball honing them and felt something in #8 cylinder. Looks like it got some water in the cylinder at some point, the cylinder wall rusted, and then the next time it was run, the rings scraped off the rust, but the damage was done to the cylinder wall. I ball honed it hoping that would be enough to flatten it out, but it wasn't, so the block needs to go to the machine shop. I'd like to keep it standard bore, so I hope to be able to just sleeve the #8 cylinder and just hone the rest.
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bulletpruf

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Verified that I have the newer style pistons and rings. Engine serial number is 601641, with compression ring thickness of .1175". Engines with serial numbers lower than 598754 got the pistons with the .0775" ring.

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Checked bores with dial bore gauge, measuring for out of round (.002" max) and taper (.003" max). Ran through it kind of fast; in checking my numbers, I have a few that appear to be just slightly out of spec. Have to re-measure tomorrow.
 

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