7.3 Fuel Lines

[Kelleyj1837]

Im replacing the fuel tanks soon, and im going to put on new fuel lines beacuse the person before me has about 3Feet extra near the transfer case. I know the sizes are 5/16 Return and 3/8 Supply. But im torn to run Steel lines or to run rubber lines. Ive been told by a few Diesel machinics that it is not a good idea to run rubber lines with diesel beacuse it will eat away at the inside of the line. Also that when you get on the pedal it will actally colapse the line. Also what type of fittings are going to be on the sending unit, fuel tank switch valve, and the engine?
Thanks Guys

 

[franklin2]

I don't know if the diesel mechanics reasons have any merit, but steel lines are stronger, neater, and last longer. The factory never ran hose the whole way from front to back, though they did start using the hard nylon line. If you use steel, you will still have to run short pieces at the sending units and the switching valve, but that's the route I would take. I would just go buy some of the universal line at the store and use that.

 

[Kevin 007]

Yes, use steel line wherever you can and where it is easy to do so and run rubber fron there to your sending units and lift pump.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

FYI, plenty of good rubber fuel line for diesel, you just have to find the right stuff. I don't know where Richmond Michigan is, but look for the closest ParkerStore, they will have the right stuff.

Either of these will work well for diesel or biodiesel:

http://www.safehose.com/ParkerProducts.asp?catID=574

http://www.safehose.com/ParkerProducts.asp?catID=575

 

[typ4]

FYI, plenty of good rubber fuel line for diesel, you just have to find the right stuff. I don't know where Richmond Michigan is, but look for the closest ParkerStore, they will have the right stuff.

Either of these will work well for diesel or biodiesel:


We need to talk soon.

 

[Can30Diesel]

I ran all my own line a couple years ago. Mostly steel line and short pieces of rubber line for the usual places. Its done me just fine. I don't think you should have to worry too much about collapsing the rubber line unless maybe if you ran the whole thing in rubber line.

 

[icanfixall]

We don't have a supply line that will suck the rubber lines flat... Thats an old wives tale. As posted. Using the right grade is all you need to do. Also seeing your in the salt belt area maybe some stainles steel line will work better for you. The clamps along the frame are hopefully there waiting for the ss lines.

 

[Agnem]

For what its worth, the Moose Truck is running completely with rubber lines all the way around. No issues so far, and you can't beat them for ease of repair if needed at a campground... which is how the steel lines came to an end.

 

[icanfixall]

Well there you have it. From that practicle experiance I would venture a guess the "mechanics" that said the rubber hoses would suck flat are not as they think they are... A valued mechanic giving advise to others. Something I read long ago in one of my Cord books talking about the man who drives a Cord.... "A champion never pushes people around. He doesn't have too"... I feel that statement fits many members here. We offer advise from many years of hands on expericance.. Not hearsay. I know when I post anything I have something to back up my posts. If I'm not sure that statement is posted along with what I post....

 

[franklin2]

A lot of people have varment problems, and they seem to love to chew the rubber fuel lines and wires. And they also chew on the hard plastic lines.

The factory never ran rubber line the whole way, and I don't know all the reasons why, but if it's not too difficult, when in Rome do as the Romans do. I have seen a lot of trucks run with rubber lines, especially bigger trucks, but it was always a "let's get it going as quick as possible, we have a job or delivery to make" type scenario(just like the campground emergency).

 

[Clayton]

I used transmission cooler hose when I did my carter E pump install, No problems yet. I don't expect there to be any for quite some time as that cooler hose is some heave duty stuff.

 

[160k87F250]

My steel fuel lines between the rear tank and selector valve were leaking due to rust. I replaced them with rubber lines. I used Gated Barricade fuel line. It is suppose to be resistant to diesel and bio-diesel, unlike regular rubber fuel line. I also found, on my truck, that the steel lines were the same size but the fittings to the fuel tank and selector valve were were different sizes for the supply and return. I had bought 3/8 and 5/16 Gates Barricade hose and found the 3/8 fit very loose on the steel line. The 5/16 hose fit snug on both lines. I also used fuel injection hose clamps, 2 at each connection, to prevent any chance of leaks. So far, everything is working properly.

John