6.9 Upgrade Advice

Kagey Robin

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OK I have a low mileage 6.9 (78000) miles that has been pulled and is getting ready to be torn down. My goal is to put in in a '94 crew cab with the ZF5 with the turbo. I am very interested in making all of the necessary upgrades for this engine. The goal is not to touch the bottom end (at this time) , however I want this engine to be reliable for at least the next 100k. SO I am making a list of all the things that need to be done. I am hoping that you guys can help me not forget anything while this engine is out and apart. The good news is I have a reliable diesel mechanic helping me, but please make suggestions as what you see is needed (parts wise) to make this a good engine. Money, I only have about a thousand dollars to spend on this setup, so money is an issue, and I am not sure what should be changed, and what will be fine reusing. Keep in mind the engine is 30 years old, so I am hesitant to reuse wear parts unless the general consensus is that it would be fine. Truck is not going to pull often, and honestly it will likely be in retirement with the exception of a few times a year. It may take me 20 years to get to 100k :)

New gaskets Set (does not include intake gasket) $200+
Intake gasket (necessary?) $50
New Water Pump ( any names I should avoid?) 50$
New oil pump (necessary?) 150$
ARP Head Studs $240
Upgrade rocker arms to the 7.3 (necessary?) $400.00
New Clutch (I need suggestions on brands for a good SMF setup for a reasonable cost. DMF?) ??unknown Price??
Moose injectors ( I already got em)
Moose Pump (already got it)
Oil Pan is dented and rusty gonna swap it ( brands to avoid?) $100.00


Thanks for your help. I also noted that the thread next to this one is very similar, but I didn't want to hijack his thread to ask my questions, and I will monitor that thread for posts so no one has to post the same info twice.
 

FarmerFrank

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Most new aftermarket pumps aren't as good or flow as much as the OEM so there is a money saver. Check and clean your old one. It's probably fine.

If your oil pan only has a small dent and isn't very rusty just massage the dent out and go. If it is bad I have 4-5 spares I'll probably never use.

I also suggest dive into the bottom end. Might as well check the crank and cylinder walls and put in new bearings and rings with the money you saved from the pan and pump.

The rocker arms are kind of controversial IMO. The 6.9 ones aren't as bad as they say and not that I ever prices them but 400 sounds like way to much for the 7.3 ones.

Good luck


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icanfixall

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Welcome to the forum. The valley pan gasket is a must do item. So is the ARP head studs on a 6.9 especially. Going thru the heads while they are off it a best idea too. No reason for the oil pump to be replaced.. Unless you are darn sure you have an actual oem pump. The Melling aftermarket pumps sometimes have too much clearances in them. Replacing the rods and mains is another good idea ecause you are in that deep already. Never use a pan gasket even if your gasket set comes with one. They are unneeded and never used by the factory. They used rtv and it worked much better.. If you remove the pistons you will need to break the cylinder glave for best ring seating. Replacing rings requires some work getting the carbon out of the ring grooves in the pistons. Special tool needed for that too. Don't power wire brush it out either. Changing the oil cooler o rings is a must do.
For the upgrade rockers please do install the 7.3 type. We really can't buy the 6.9 rockers any longer anyway.
 

riotwarrior

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OEM MOTORCRAFT water pump and thermostat.

Also rebuild oil cooler.

Retain stock oil pump.

Suggest at the least pulling caps and inzpecting bearings...replace if worn..clean em a d plastiguage them to see what clearances you do indeed have.

Optional....Zerogap second rings....

Typ4 cam or Justins cam too would be good

JM7.3CW
 
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Greg5OH

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honestly,, stud it, rebuild oil cooler (age will dry rot the orings), and just run it. wouldn;t even bother with anything else.
 

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