6.9 problems

[Matt C]

Friend called last night and said his truck didnt wanna start. So I go over there and he was right no start. Temp was about 45 deg outside truck was in a unheated garage, we plugged it in came back an hour and a half later and she fired right up. This doesn't seem normal to me mine will start way colder then that not plugged in. The odometer is at 307,000 miles, they have owned it since day one and the motor is all original. Mabey the motor is just getting tired?

Another question: We got it runing and went for a drive, I was driving and we get about 5 miles out of town and the Glow Plug light comes on and stays on. So right away I stop and unhook the relay. We get back to town and i hooked it back up and it worked fine. Any ideas on this one?

I'm not new to diesels, have had chevys for a few years, but am fairly new to Ford diesels. The truck is a 86' F-250 6.9. Thanks.

 

[69oiler]

the pre-87 GP controller is trash. this is the reason many have switched to a manual system.

 

[2manydsls]

If the glow plug light problem had happened before, then there's a good chance that all of the glow plugs are toast. Probably the fault of the glow plug controller. Failed glow plugs would result in hard or no start conditions in cold weather. The block heater would allow the engine to start without the glow plugs. There is info on this site to make the glow plugs operate with a manual push-button switch, which will correct this possible situation.
Ross

 

[Matt C]

I planned on testing the glows last night but I forgot my test light. We took it out last night and went to start it 2 hours later and it took alot to get it going. Let it run for awhile, shut it off, came back 2hrs later same thing. I have a push button in my 6.2 and I put self limiting plugs in it that are supposed to only get so hot so they wont swell. Are the ones for fords like this? The reason I ask is I'm not sure I would trust him or the other people that drive it from time to time to only glow for so long. Guess if I explain the consequences of glowing too long he would get it. Thanks

 

[Mr_Roboto]

The 6.2 and 6.9 (except 1987) use the same glow plugs. You can use the same dual coil plugs in that motor as you have in your GM.

 

[Diesel JD]

Yes, the dual coil plugs should be nice, but you definietly will want to change to a manual glow plug system or at least have some failsafe as Mel has in the Moose Truck system if you want to keep it stockish. Most importantly when you all pull the glow plugs, make sure you take the pistons you're working on to TDC and be real careful pulling them just in case you have some swollen tips in there. I hate the pre 87 latching relay...it is gone in my truck...first in favor of a manual glow plug controller and then in favor of the 87 and later system.

 

[Matt C]

I started testing them last night and once i found the first 5 were burnt out I didn't bother testing the rest of them. New plugs and a push button will work. How hard would it be to switch to a later system so they will still work normal, then have a push button for extra glow time. This is the way my 6.2 works.

 

[Matt C]

I just looked at the price of a 87 up controller and that idea is out. Kinda low budget. Guess i'll hook up a push button. I did some looking around in the tech articles and searched and haven't found instructions on how to do this. I'm guessing it's about the same as a 6.2 from the looks of it. I'll keep searching but if someone knows exactly where it is and could point me to it that would be great.

 

[Matt C]

Got one more question for ya. I know Mr. Roboto said I can use the same plugs in this ford as my GM. Is this what would be recomended? I want something that will last with push button just in case they glow it too long. Gonna start getting parts for it tomorrow so any suggestions are welcome.

 

[Diesel JD]

I suggest you use the ones for a 5.7. AC Delco #12G...might be a little pricey but the 12 Volt plugs rule out any likelihood of having to do it again. A push button is easy, Zigg has a link to a good diagram on his site. Total cost for that should be around $20, less if you can scrounge the required fuse, terminals and wire from your or your buddy's garage. Basically you take the purple wire off the glow plug power relay so teh controller doesn't function, that you apply hot voltage from the battery with a 10A fuse inline of course to a switch and if I recall both ends go to the terminal where the aforementioned purple wire was. A momentary toggle instead of a real switch is a very good idea just in case someone forgets to cut the plugs off. It has happened to others here. As far as the plugs from your 6.2, nothing wrong with them but they are no improvement over the ZD-1A that Ford uses in the 6.9 and just as likely to burn up. I didn't know you could use them with this system but I trust Mr. Roboto... I also see no reason why he'd be incorrect. The other option would be to get a solid state controller from a 6.5 and use the 6.2/6.5 PTC glow plugs. That system then would be essentially like the 87 and up Ford/IH solid state. The killer is that latching relay, coupled with the 6V glow plugs, and any system that eliminates it or a system that uses 12V glow plugs will give a very very long service life.

 

[Matt C]

Just thought ya should know, i wired up the push button and put in new glows and she starts. Only one plug wouldn't come out, it's swelled up, so for now at least i'm just gonna leave it. Considering the fact that the plugs were left on for along time I was expecting most of them to be swelled so I was happy.

 

[Diesel JD]

Nice which plugs did you use? I agree with you, I'd just leave the dead one. 7 good plugs will be just fine for a push button system.

 

[Matt C]

I took Mr.Roboto's advice and went with the same plugs as my GM, AC 60G's. These plugs are never supposed to swell as they are self limiting. I don't know if it's true but i've had the same one's in mine for 4 years and haven't had a bad one. The spade connectors are a little smaller but if you plug them in just right they fit tight. Thanks for all the help guys!! Now i just gotta fix the leaking return caps and it should be good to go.

 

[jimraelee]

Only one plug wouldn't come out, it's swelled up, so for now at least i'm just gonna leave it...

So how would one remove the swollen GP??? Logic would tell me that the head needs to come off.

 

[icanfixall]

Depends on what cylinder its stuck in. Usually some carbon disolver works ok. I think its called Murcery outboard carbon disolver or something like that. Slowly pulling and wiggleing it back and forth helps but you wont know till its out if part of it is still in the precup. Best have that cylinder at top dead center so if it breaks up it wont fall into the cylinder and sometimes it can be vacuumed out the injector hole. Its a tuff call. If you try to warm up the motor and then loosen it up till all the threads are clear and then start the motor and try to blow it out be careful. Its comming out just like a bullet leaving a gun barrel. It will kill you or something else. Cover the plug with plywood and some rags. Or use the big phone book to stop the bullet.