IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
That should be the right one.
6.9 motor problem diagnosis
- Thread starter Leroy
- Start date
she's back ... an' good as new.
thanks to all y'all for the advice along the way.
it's been quite the project, and it's great to hear her fire'n up.
I'm leaving the fan, shroud, and a/c off for now, because I won't be needin' em in the winter time.
I have an alternator and dipstick to fetch, those being the only casualties, I only lost about half a gallon of coolant alltogether, and she'll be getting fresh oil in the coming days.
I'm very pleased that there was not one broken bolt, nut or any other unforseen challenges.
Here's how it all looks..
first startup vid just fired, burping out the injectors and hadn't yet been timed.
Second vid, give her some throttle, timed and running right.
thanks to all y'all for the advice along the way.
it's been quite the project, and it's great to hear her fire'n up.
I'm leaving the fan, shroud, and a/c off for now, because I won't be needin' em in the winter time.
I have an alternator and dipstick to fetch, those being the only casualties, I only lost about half a gallon of coolant alltogether, and she'll be getting fresh oil in the coming days.
I'm very pleased that there was not one broken bolt, nut or any other unforseen challenges.
Here's how it all looks..
first startup vid just fired, burping out the injectors and hadn't yet been timed.
Second vid, give her some throttle, timed and running right.
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Oledirtypearl86
Full Access Member
Those are the places to look I live in rural mt and I do a bunch of r12 I buy the hell out of it when it pops up on fleabay last time I got 3 . 12 can cases for 25. A can an have used 2 casesOne disadvantage to living in my rural area.
My pleasure, hopefully someday, reading this will help somebody who's experiencing a similar weird chuffing and misfire, I had no idea what it was, very confusing, but head gaskets can and do break between cylinders.
Garbage_Mechan
Garbage Mechanic
I’m impressed with your work to hand dress flat surfaces.
I learned from an old master mechanic who did many similar things. I don’t assemble anything without at least running a file over the mating surfaces...amazing how many times I find burrs and high spots.
I learned from an old master mechanic who did many similar things. I don’t assemble anything without at least running a file over the mating surfaces...amazing how many times I find burrs and high spots.
I am honored and humbled for a comparison of my working technique.
I am careful and also, go over everything with a fine block, file or brush.
I don't give a damn about their disposable society, i am a fixer, and need my truck as most other things running smooth for a long good time now.
Thank you so much for the very kind words.
I went out to the bone yard lookin for some of these loose ends ..
I weren't too optimistic, because I pretty much never find an idi, and if I do, it's always stripped. But I got a hold of a good'n.
Sure enough, got that dipstick, tube and bracket. Plus a nice ol' grimy Injection Pump, and three spare fuel sticks.
Gonna have to order that dipstick block adapter, unless they still stock em at a dealership, I'll check on it.
I went ahead and grabbed parts for a 130a alternator swap, I was gonna stick with the external regulated 70a, but the cost is the same, so figured i'd give it a shot.
I might want to put in a rad fan at some point, and my little old 45.2 rockford amp always dims the headlights..
The ladies were great, didn't even charge me for half the stuff I pulled, and the other parts guy kept trying to tell her about this and that that I got too, but she wouldn't ring em up, so freebies.
I got the 3g alt, 2-4au?, big gauge hookup wire, loom with yellow, and green red stripe wires and plug, regulator attached, injection pump, 3 injectors, dipstick, tube, bracket, a hand full of 30a relays, filter base to IP inlet fuel line with good olives, for 80 bucks.
Today, I got the alternator installed..
Donor was an early 90's lincoln continental, for the alternator and connector wires, the primary wire was sourced from a late 90's grand marquis with eyelets and fused links built to exact length.
I picked the 8.5 in large frame 130a unit clocked 12 o'clock apart, and fit is absolutely exactly as 2g 70a it replaced, perfect fit.
I took the slim fender washer from behind the stock pull nut and put it behind the pulley on the 3g, perfect belt alignment and case clearance.
The pics online varied in most cases from what I found in my 85 so just had to figure it out, but was pretty straightforward. I kept the stock alt harness because it backfed B+ to several yellow wires, doesn't hurt anything to stay hot, keeps old electrical routing unchanged, but clipped out where unneeded terminals were, kept ext voltage regulator, but it is now unused.
Fat wire went to the hot side of GP relay, the yellow went to the hot side of the start relay, which backfed by old alt harness retained to the other stock yellow wiring.
Green w/ red is pulling double duty now, from same color lead from near the external regulator. one to energize the alt as it's supposed to, and 2 it is now powering a 30a relay to activate an electric booster fuel pump, because this was hot on ignition and not acc.
I retained the small red ammeter wire that feeds through hot to the yellow wires in the stock alt harness, but clipped it's small yellow sister, that also was hot, to prevent burning wires or stock ammeter gauges because of high amperage.
The red wire has no outlet for now, but when I put in a volt meter gauge in the stock cluster, that yellow will be geounded to power that gauge.
It's running fine, no more grinding bearings noises from the old alternator. Though that 70a old bass **** was a trooper and earned my respect.
The installation went smooth and it is nice to have my axc fuel pump on that relay, I guess the alternator does what it's supposed to be doing so looks all good.
I'm happy to have found an oe motorcraft that wasn't a rebuild, I will pick up a spare to have just in case, hopefully it proves as reliable as the old alternator.
The ol' Iron Horse is running really great, all that's left is getting that dipstick tube fitted and she'll really be built again.
sooner than later though, as another very soon to do project, I'm gonna replace all the stock incoming fuel lines with 1/2 inch PEX, I have a slight restriction that is a nuicence especially when it's colder out, it's fine with the auxiliary pump plus the mechanical pumps both pulling, but the stock mechanical pump cant keep up alone, and restrictions choke her out on extended highway runs.
So as not to ever worry about the pluged up prone fuel lines, will run pex from tanks to IP and mechanical marine diesel switching fuel valves.
It's fine running for now , just something that I want to do soon to ease the fuel circuit and make sure that the IP has plenty of fuel to keep it cool and long lasting. ...
Blah blah blah, probably tl Dr
I am careful and also, go over everything with a fine block, file or brush.
I don't give a damn about their disposable society, i am a fixer, and need my truck as most other things running smooth for a long good time now.
Thank you so much for the very kind words.
I went out to the bone yard lookin for some of these loose ends ..
I weren't too optimistic, because I pretty much never find an idi, and if I do, it's always stripped. But I got a hold of a good'n.
Sure enough, got that dipstick, tube and bracket. Plus a nice ol' grimy Injection Pump, and three spare fuel sticks.
Gonna have to order that dipstick block adapter, unless they still stock em at a dealership, I'll check on it.
I went ahead and grabbed parts for a 130a alternator swap, I was gonna stick with the external regulated 70a, but the cost is the same, so figured i'd give it a shot.
I might want to put in a rad fan at some point, and my little old 45.2 rockford amp always dims the headlights..
The ladies were great, didn't even charge me for half the stuff I pulled, and the other parts guy kept trying to tell her about this and that that I got too, but she wouldn't ring em up, so freebies.
I got the 3g alt, 2-4au?, big gauge hookup wire, loom with yellow, and green red stripe wires and plug, regulator attached, injection pump, 3 injectors, dipstick, tube, bracket, a hand full of 30a relays, filter base to IP inlet fuel line with good olives, for 80 bucks.
Today, I got the alternator installed..
Donor was an early 90's lincoln continental, for the alternator and connector wires, the primary wire was sourced from a late 90's grand marquis with eyelets and fused links built to exact length.
I picked the 8.5 in large frame 130a unit clocked 12 o'clock apart, and fit is absolutely exactly as 2g 70a it replaced, perfect fit.
I took the slim fender washer from behind the stock pull nut and put it behind the pulley on the 3g, perfect belt alignment and case clearance.
The pics online varied in most cases from what I found in my 85 so just had to figure it out, but was pretty straightforward. I kept the stock alt harness because it backfed B+ to several yellow wires, doesn't hurt anything to stay hot, keeps old electrical routing unchanged, but clipped out where unneeded terminals were, kept ext voltage regulator, but it is now unused.
Fat wire went to the hot side of GP relay, the yellow went to the hot side of the start relay, which backfed by old alt harness retained to the other stock yellow wiring.
Green w/ red is pulling double duty now, from same color lead from near the external regulator. one to energize the alt as it's supposed to, and 2 it is now powering a 30a relay to activate an electric booster fuel pump, because this was hot on ignition and not acc.
I retained the small red ammeter wire that feeds through hot to the yellow wires in the stock alt harness, but clipped it's small yellow sister, that also was hot, to prevent burning wires or stock ammeter gauges because of high amperage.
The red wire has no outlet for now, but when I put in a volt meter gauge in the stock cluster, that yellow will be geounded to power that gauge.
It's running fine, no more grinding bearings noises from the old alternator. Though that 70a old bass **** was a trooper and earned my respect.
The installation went smooth and it is nice to have my axc fuel pump on that relay, I guess the alternator does what it's supposed to be doing so looks all good.
I'm happy to have found an oe motorcraft that wasn't a rebuild, I will pick up a spare to have just in case, hopefully it proves as reliable as the old alternator.
The ol' Iron Horse is running really great, all that's left is getting that dipstick tube fitted and she'll really be built again.
sooner than later though, as another very soon to do project, I'm gonna replace all the stock incoming fuel lines with 1/2 inch PEX, I have a slight restriction that is a nuicence especially when it's colder out, it's fine with the auxiliary pump plus the mechanical pumps both pulling, but the stock mechanical pump cant keep up alone, and restrictions choke her out on extended highway runs.
So as not to ever worry about the pluged up prone fuel lines, will run pex from tanks to IP and mechanical marine diesel switching fuel valves.
It's fine running for now , just something that I want to do soon to ease the fuel circuit and make sure that the IP has plenty of fuel to keep it cool and long lasting. ...
Blah blah blah, probably tl Dr
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. I read it all. I'm gonna run entirely with PEX and upgrade the fuel pump, I'll adapt fittings where need be.
I think i'll install 2 seperate, cheaper, electric fuel pumps with a filter behind, and check valves ahead of each.
In case of failure can toggle the secondary pump.
I used to like mechanical fuel pumps, but they are all seemingly chineese junk now.
None feed enough fuel, and they have a shorter and shorter lifespan.
Might as well have redundant junk at least, and ease of access and repair.
A good wide open hose, manual valves, and a nice fuel pressure gauge are in my trucks future.
It's running great, but it has been a liability before, fuel starvation killed my old, very good IP.
I installed an E booster pump, to help the weak mechanical pump, it works, and flows fine now, but It's a band aid.
Fixin' the motor up nice has me thinking of all the other little things i've been meaning to get to, she deserves some TLC, I run her hard and she does good by me.
I think i'll install 2 seperate, cheaper, electric fuel pumps with a filter behind, and check valves ahead of each.
In case of failure can toggle the secondary pump.
I used to like mechanical fuel pumps, but they are all seemingly chineese junk now.
None feed enough fuel, and they have a shorter and shorter lifespan.
Might as well have redundant junk at least, and ease of access and repair.
A good wide open hose, manual valves, and a nice fuel pressure gauge are in my trucks future.
It's running great, but it has been a liability before, fuel starvation killed my old, very good IP.
I installed an E booster pump, to help the weak mechanical pump, it works, and flows fine now, but It's a band aid.
Fixin' the motor up nice has me thinking of all the other little things i've been meaning to get to, she deserves some TLC, I run her hard and she does good by me.
From what I gather, PEX is 'half' as resistant to diesel as water. and not good for under pressure above 200 degrees.
There are some, but not many arguments for and against using it as fuel line on the internet. I can find some examples of ..
"yea, but i've been using it for years, and it looks good as new"
Haven't yet found examples of people claiming real life failure, except those exposed to melting due to overheating, doesn't mean it don't happen just aint found any mention of failure yet.
I will try to use as few fittings as possible when I run it, I think the IP and some other fittings are copper or brass, hopefully doesn't corrode, or maybe will source a non reactive fitting if that presents a problem.
If you know of failure using PEX for fuel oil, please chime in, not harsh biodiesel, just pump fuel, if doing so is a mistake plese let me know, kindof uncharted territory.
I don't see why not though, I'm thinking of sheathing it in garden hose to prevent rub through, and keeping it clear of the motor and insulated if need be.
Thoughts? Bad idea, good idea, anyone done this?
There are some, but not many arguments for and against using it as fuel line on the internet. I can find some examples of ..
"yea, but i've been using it for years, and it looks good as new"
Haven't yet found examples of people claiming real life failure, except those exposed to melting due to overheating, doesn't mean it don't happen just aint found any mention of failure yet.
I will try to use as few fittings as possible when I run it, I think the IP and some other fittings are copper or brass, hopefully doesn't corrode, or maybe will source a non reactive fitting if that presents a problem.
If you know of failure using PEX for fuel oil, please chime in, not harsh biodiesel, just pump fuel, if doing so is a mistake plese let me know, kindof uncharted territory.
I don't see why not though, I'm thinking of sheathing it in garden hose to prevent rub through, and keeping it clear of the motor and insulated if need be.
Thoughts? Bad idea, good idea, anyone done this?
I think it's a great idea.
If it is as resistant to diesel as rubber hose is, and kept away from heat, it should outlast rubber hose by decades!
And is even better than steel, because it won't rust.
You can even use a heat gun to form it to any special situations. And to easily 'flare' the end of it, so that a rubber hose can be clamped for a secure and leak free union.
Just occurred to me as well... I wonder if it would work in an actual flare fitting? Seriously easy enough to flare. Little heat from a heat gun, and a cold flare tool, and you could have an 'exact' flare, as well.
It just surprised me. I'd never heard of running PEX for diesel before. My question was genuine.
If it is as resistant to diesel as rubber hose is, and kept away from heat, it should outlast rubber hose by decades!
And is even better than steel, because it won't rust.
You can even use a heat gun to form it to any special situations. And to easily 'flare' the end of it, so that a rubber hose can be clamped for a secure and leak free union.
Just occurred to me as well... I wonder if it would work in an actual flare fitting? Seriously easy enough to flare. Little heat from a heat gun, and a cold flare tool, and you could have an 'exact' flare, as well.
It just surprised me. I'd never heard of running PEX for diesel before. My question was genuine.
Hey, these are some great ideas, I bet they could be flared, I never have tried a heat gun, but that would be great to avoid fittings and routing up to the engine bay.
Those quick disconnect o ring fittings in a few places would sure be nice too.
A quick search found that PEX is the same material that they form diesel and gas fuel tanks out of, pressure (low) wouldn't be an issue, as long as heat and abrasion were avoided, should be good fuel line.
Those quick disconnect o ring fittings in a few places would sure be nice too.
A quick search found that PEX is the same material that they form diesel and gas fuel tanks out of, pressure (low) wouldn't be an issue, as long as heat and abrasion were avoided, should be good fuel line.
It would only require a tiny bit of flare if you were transitioning to rubber lines. Put two hose clamps on the rubber line, once you slide it over the pex. Use the fuel injection type, 'band' clamps rather than the screw type. And put the heads of the clamps, 180* opposite each other on the line. (If there is ANY chance of a leak under those clamps, it is at the head. Putting the heads opposite each other eliminates that chance.)
I'd put rubber lines wherever there will be any flex. And anchor BOTH lines like mad on the nearest solid surface, to eliminate any flex at the junction of the two lines.
I'd put rubber lines wherever there will be any flex. And anchor BOTH lines like mad on the nearest solid surface, to eliminate any flex at the junction of the two lines.
Looks like outside diameter of 1/2in PEX is 5/8 .. 0.625 this 5/8 inside diameter A1 fuel line at .625 will slip right over it with a little flare, some grease and some clamps.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-8-ID-Typ...417865&hash=item4ac5d941fc:g:KvAAAMXQDjhQ5D1R
It'll be a few weeks till I have extra time to do this fix though, i've taken lots of time off work while my trucks been down, so I should probably do something with myself.
Definitely looking forward to knowing for sure that I will have fat fuel lines, and one potential problem I'll be able to eliminate completely, unless I drop a leather glove in the fuel tank, should be good forever once it's done.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-8-ID-Typ...417865&hash=item4ac5d941fc:g:KvAAAMXQDjhQ5D1R
It'll be a few weeks till I have extra time to do this fix though, i've taken lots of time off work while my trucks been down, so I should probably do something with myself.
Definitely looking forward to knowing for sure that I will have fat fuel lines, and one potential problem I'll be able to eliminate completely, unless I drop a leather glove in the fuel tank, should be good forever once it's done.
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