Excellent idea. I'm filing that one for future use.
6.9 motor problem diagnosis
- Thread starter Leroy
- Start date
Ford manual says 80# http://www.thedieselfiles.com/Ford/1985/1985 Ford 6.9L Diesel Engine.pdf
My studs are 85-90#.
Lap the valves & replace stem seals if you have the tools.
Still on R12 myself.
My studs are 85-90#.
Lap the valves & replace stem seals if you have the tools.
Still on R12 myself.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
When I get the A/C going again on my 85, I'm wanting to go back to R12. I just may have to drive a ways to find a shop that still works with it. One disadvantage to living in my rural area.
Garbage_Mechan
Garbage Mechanic
My 91 had Duracool R12 replacement in it when I bought it in 2001. I finally had to replace my the compressor and some of the hoses a couple of years ago...25 years on a compressor ain’t bad....
Garbage_Mechan
Garbage Mechanic
You will be lucky if there is is no erosion of the block or head surface. Most high mileage 6.9’s I have done needed both done. I like to use 120 grit emery cloth soaked in oil to clean block deck... the oil keeps the sanding grit contained so you can wipe it up without it getting down in the rings. I also like to use lots of oil in the cylinders to help the grit and debris make its way out. Just keep turning it over and wiping dirty oil from the cylinder walls.
I replaced my 86 truck compressor with the NEW GPD from rockauto.com. Had enough of the rebuilt FS6 problems. Changed the supplied oil with mineral and worked great last summer.
Last edited:
Right On, there was a good bit of corrosion and unevenness on the block surface.
I decked one side today and it came out very smooth. A razor or scraper would surely not be a longer term fix with the occlusions. Would seep and break in the same places.
Previously I picked through every single knife sharpening wet stone at harbor freight, and got the absolute flattest on they had.
Believe me, people look at you funny when you line sight a shelf full of knife sharpener, but.
Use to deck the block, medium then fine, always sure to feel the deck, keep moving, and not cut too much material from between cylinders where it's thin.
I was previously paint and auto body pro, so I have a great feel for flatness blocking by hand.
One deck took about 2 hrs, planning on doing the other and both heads tomorrow despite the rain forecast.
For lube, I used brake parts cleaner, as it thinned the thicker grease and oil and cut clean.
Thanks for the tip to use extra oil while turning and cleaning out the rings. The pistons and cylinders look great, and I want to prevent grit from wearing them out.
After resurfacing both the decks and heads, at the point where the gasket had broken, it was 'high' and tight on both sides, right there, causing a pinch point, that probably cracked the fire ring and overly compressed the gasket.
Could also have been affected by exhaust gases passing there and swelling the iron,
but close examination shows print of a crack in the former fire ring likely from pinching before, years later opening up and blowing out.
I blocked only far enough to achieve a smooth flat surface, then scraped the carbon from all around the valves.
Only have to clean out the cylinders, clean and lube the head bolts, and fashion up 2 alignment dowels.
pass side dowels came out in the head, seemingly glued in. Fortunately have some copper lineset that fits like a glove and will cut dowels to length.
Pics of resurfaced block and heads ready for degrease and installation.
Could also have been affected by exhaust gases passing there and swelling the iron,
but close examination shows print of a crack in the former fire ring likely from pinching before, years later opening up and blowing out.
I blocked only far enough to achieve a smooth flat surface, then scraped the carbon from all around the valves.
Only have to clean out the cylinders, clean and lube the head bolts, and fashion up 2 alignment dowels.
pass side dowels came out in the head, seemingly glued in. Fortunately have some copper lineset that fits like a glove and will cut dowels to length.
Pics of resurfaced block and heads ready for degrease and installation.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Yes, there was alot of inconsistency on the surfaces.
I used a harbor freight knife sharpening stone, if you do this, inspect every single one on the shelf for one that is absolutely flat, 95 percent are not straight and would be worse than ineffective.
I keep the stone flat by feel, I did professional paint and auto body for 10 y, before changing careers, same principle as hand blocking bondo or paint to a flat surface.
let the block do the work, medium side, not fine, never tilt or turn on edge, keep moving, care to not work any area overly, and use feel to find the high spots, and don't take any more material than necessary. Probably shouldn't do this unless you've cut plenty of paint or body filler and feel comfortable with how to block.
So progress of the day, and a question..
I got the motor all put back together, everythings goin pretty smooth. Though it's a pretty big job and it's taking a lot of time.
I spent half a day, thoroughly cleaning out the cylinders and block and heads, took my time and care lowering the heads into place.
Ultimately ended up torquing the head bolts to 95 lbs. and put closer to 100 on the bottom and rearmost bolts, where they tend to seep. I went until I felt the pressure was building on the bolt and there seemed no more compression of the gasket, and it might be dangerous to push any further. 95-100 seems strong enough, it's definitely not gonna fall off there.
Got the Valley pan, rockers, intake, valve covers on, but the oil dipstick turned into a nightmare, and took half the day, and still isn't really done right.
I lightly gripped the tube with vice grips to 'press fit' it back in. Finally, after starter removal and a life or death struggle. I got it on. But the dipstick won't make it down, getting hung up on where I had to squeeze it (just a little, but) ..
Question, will the o-ring (rtv) dipstick tube, from the 7.3 fit my truck? Not much info that I could find searching the forum, but there was mention of an adapter..
Will the 7.3 tube fit the earlier press fit block, 85? If so, will I need a matching adapter? If so, will my existing dipstick slide through the 7.3 tube or will I need the matching dipstick.
It's a pita, but not the end of the world, I got it in so at least it wont leak until I can find a replacement, and I'll just slide wire down to eyeball oil level for the time being.
Got another full days work ahead and it should be finished..
Tasks yet,
Wiring, vacuum, cables
pump and lines
exhaust
starter
accessories
Misc
Greasing
Rebuild alternator
Almost there, I just want this to be done.
I used a harbor freight knife sharpening stone, if you do this, inspect every single one on the shelf for one that is absolutely flat, 95 percent are not straight and would be worse than ineffective.
I keep the stone flat by feel, I did professional paint and auto body for 10 y, before changing careers, same principle as hand blocking bondo or paint to a flat surface.
let the block do the work, medium side, not fine, never tilt or turn on edge, keep moving, care to not work any area overly, and use feel to find the high spots, and don't take any more material than necessary. Probably shouldn't do this unless you've cut plenty of paint or body filler and feel comfortable with how to block.
So progress of the day, and a question..
I got the motor all put back together, everythings goin pretty smooth. Though it's a pretty big job and it's taking a lot of time.
I spent half a day, thoroughly cleaning out the cylinders and block and heads, took my time and care lowering the heads into place.
Ultimately ended up torquing the head bolts to 95 lbs. and put closer to 100 on the bottom and rearmost bolts, where they tend to seep. I went until I felt the pressure was building on the bolt and there seemed no more compression of the gasket, and it might be dangerous to push any further. 95-100 seems strong enough, it's definitely not gonna fall off there.
Got the Valley pan, rockers, intake, valve covers on, but the oil dipstick turned into a nightmare, and took half the day, and still isn't really done right.
I lightly gripped the tube with vice grips to 'press fit' it back in. Finally, after starter removal and a life or death struggle. I got it on. But the dipstick won't make it down, getting hung up on where I had to squeeze it (just a little, but) ..
Question, will the o-ring (rtv) dipstick tube, from the 7.3 fit my truck? Not much info that I could find searching the forum, but there was mention of an adapter..
Will the 7.3 tube fit the earlier press fit block, 85? If so, will I need a matching adapter? If so, will my existing dipstick slide through the 7.3 tube or will I need the matching dipstick.
It's a pita, but not the end of the world, I got it in so at least it wont leak until I can find a replacement, and I'll just slide wire down to eyeball oil level for the time being.
Got another full days work ahead and it should be finished..
Tasks yet,
Wiring, vacuum, cables
pump and lines
exhaust
starter
accessories
Misc
Greasing
Rebuild alternator
Almost there, I just want this to be done.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
You can use the later style dipstick tube in your engine. You will need the adapter that is in the engine with the other dipstick tube. You will also need to use the correct dipstick for the tube. IIRC, there's a difference in lengths between the two dipsticks. You should also use the mounting bracket that goes over the valve cover with the later tube. There's no tab to bolt it in place like your original one has.
Alright, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. For some reason I had a feeling a new stick would be required.. This'n barely fit, and if it's o'ringed and probably narrower, and apparently longer, well I'll start cross refrencing stock 7.3 parts at rockauto. Thanks
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
You may be able to find what you need at a junk yard. Maybe someone on here will have what you need too.
Yep, I did some googlin' and it looks like I should probably try to get a matching set.
I found the adapter, I think, if thats not right, please hollar..
www.ebay.com/itm/1992-1994-Ford-E350-Econoline-7-3L-Engine-Lower-Dipstick-Tube-OEM-E3UZ-6754-C/201257843767?epid=1711154998&hash=item2edbe6fc37:g:kckAAOSw2
they look discontinued, maybe there were 3 different tubes and sticks, brackets?
I will try the JY, though idi's are slim pickins' here.
Please PM if anyone has a unwanted matching set, tube, stick and bracket.
I found the adapter, I think, if thats not right, please hollar..
www.ebay.com/itm/1992-1994-Ford-E350-Econoline-7-3L-Engine-Lower-Dipstick-Tube-OEM-E3UZ-6754-C/201257843767?epid=1711154998&hash=item2edbe6fc37:g:kckAAOSw2
they look discontinued, maybe there were 3 different tubes and sticks, brackets?
I will try the JY, though idi's are slim pickins' here.
Please PM if anyone has a unwanted matching set, tube, stick and bracket.
Similar threads
