Austin86250
Full Access Member
so my 86 f250 stopped charging the other day don't know if it was the alternator or the regulator didn't care I've been itching for a 3g for a while anyway as I've done 2 swaps before I thought this would be no issue but i was wrong and cant get anything other than 12.83v
I used a 130 amp alternator part #R111719A from o riley
green to 12v key on from the old key on wire for the old regulator
yellow to charge post
white to the provision next to the connector
for the charge wire I used 4 gauge with a 175 amp fuse strait to the battery
first thought was I wasn't getting proper ground so I took both alternator brackets off and got them to bare metal to no avail
next thought was alternator was bad out of box so I pulled it and got it bench tested and it gave the green light
next thought was bad batteries even though there a year old I had a 6 month old battery drop a cell, driver side battery good passenger battery was good but needs recharge
interesting note the 2 times it died and and I needed a jump it wouldn't take a jump what so ever just got two revolutions had to pull start but it takes charge from a battery charger no problem
I used non-insulated butt connectors and marine grade heat shrink and for charge wire I used solder I verified continuity though all connections
positive cables are new as of last year negatives are cracking but I see clean copper though cracks and cranks fast as hell when charged
I'm just at a lost hear can anybody shine some light?
I used a 130 amp alternator part #R111719A from o riley
green to 12v key on from the old key on wire for the old regulator
yellow to charge post
white to the provision next to the connector
for the charge wire I used 4 gauge with a 175 amp fuse strait to the battery
first thought was I wasn't getting proper ground so I took both alternator brackets off and got them to bare metal to no avail
next thought was alternator was bad out of box so I pulled it and got it bench tested and it gave the green light
next thought was bad batteries even though there a year old I had a 6 month old battery drop a cell, driver side battery good passenger battery was good but needs recharge
interesting note the 2 times it died and and I needed a jump it wouldn't take a jump what so ever just got two revolutions had to pull start but it takes charge from a battery charger no problem
I used non-insulated butt connectors and marine grade heat shrink and for charge wire I used solder I verified continuity though all connections
positive cables are new as of last year negatives are cracking but I see clean copper though cracks and cranks fast as hell when charged
I'm just at a lost hear can anybody shine some light?
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