twofazed
Registered User
project no longer being updated here
Last edited:
Hey thanks dustin, I have fouind a couple of overhaul kits online for under a grand, sleeves, pistons, gaskets, valves, rod and main bearings, I think im going to do this. i want everything like new, as i'm really picky.
I got everything on the transfer case stripped with a brass wire wheel, looks like new. Still waiting on the kit from drivetrain.com I'm starting to collect everything for the rebuild. I machined an aluminum plug with a tab and o-ring to plug the speedo hole (as mine is on the rear axle), gritblasted and painted all the shifter hardware. made all the bushings and pivots out of nylon, as the others were melted or worn out. it's all been acid etched and painted. I've never done this before, so any tips are welcome.
-Do i have to replace the companion flange nut? Haynes manual says too, why.
-I need that little rubber spline seal (where to get one?)
-I need the 4x4 position sensor, as mine is melted. (where to get one)
also on that last note, anyone have any info on making the dodge position sensor talking ford? oh ya, and venting? is there a better way to vent rather than a chunk of 5/16ths hose? some sort of check valve or what, im thinking about water intake here./ thanks
once the kit comes from drivetrain.com i'll postthe pics of the clean pieces and the assembly.
Looking good. You can remove every dodge sensor off the engine and get it ready to go in by putting the Ford water temp and oil pressure senders in.
If you don't know the thorough history of the engine replace the headgasket now. I've done many C conversions. 80% of the used engines I've bought have had blown headgaskets. Many times people have no idea the gasket is even blown until it's fixed and the engine runs smoother and has more power. When you have the head off and the valvetrain apart check for wear in the rocker shafts. If the engine was poorly maintained and not allowed to warm up for a minute when it was started you will see galling in the rocker arm bores and on the rocker shafts, if the valves were never adjusted you may see wear on the valve stem tips too. The tappet cover gasket and front/rear seals are a good idea to replace when you have it out too. Just make absolutely sure you install the seals dry.
I don't mean to hyjack but why would you install the gaskets dry I thought that you were supposed to oil the valve cover gaskets.