2+2 does not equal 4

[fordw60s]

Yep. Change both when you can. Probably not critical right now but it also depends on your future plans for the truck.

 

[1mouse3]

Digging around on ebay, found all I need to sort the spring out for $150. I was to unsure about the 5.5in cast iron blocks that where found, so went with the 4in steel bocks. The only ones I was finding that where 3in wide with a 9/16 was for the new super dutys. I also found nos zone 5/8x18-1/2x3-5/8 for cheap as along with some top plates.

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After some uming arring, to gain some lift in the rear I cut up the 3 long I pulled from the driver side so both are a stack of 11. Will make another 2 leafs for the bottom of the stack later, I have to pull it back apart to put a bigger bolt in it. I thought 9/16 pin on a 3/8 bolt was correct but was wrong, its a 7/16 bolt that came out the stack.

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I also found why it road like a hard tail but is not the only issue I found, the rear u-joint slides around in the yoke. Glad got 6in lift shocks for the rear when I got the 4in ones for the front.

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So now have matching spring stack, it rides a lot better now with flex in rear.

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I keep finding more parts off this truck to add to my scrap pile.

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[Clb]

Sins of the "prior owners"...
Amazing what common sense can do to/for a truck...

 

[fordw60s]

Are you off-roading the truck much?

 

[1mouse3]

Are you off-roading the truck much?

Currently would not be wise since the there is no front drive shaft, would get into that when ever I get the ratios matching. Past that unsure but would be temped to do so, why do you ask?

 

[fordw60s]

My advice would be to make sure you run ladder bars or some type of anti-wrap device so you don't break the axle or crack the springs. Just something to think about if you go to ride trails or play in the mud.

 

[1mouse3]

My advice would be to make sure you run ladder bars or some type of anti-wrap device so you don't break the axle or crack the springs. Just something to think about if you go to ride trails or play in the mud.

That is good advice and was thinking about it because what the f100 dose to leafs, it skips to the loo badly where should put the trailing arms off a c10 on it before it snaps another leaf. I was thinking something that is bolt on and this is what I was finding that I find interesting, whould get to this later on when ever I sort of the gear ratios.

https://www.pmfsuspension.com/Pre-1999-Ford-F-250350-PMF-Single-Traction-Bar-Kit_p_135.html

 

[1mouse3]

Since brought up the f100, I had to see if could find pic of what it did to the leafs. No perfect pics where found but is in the middle of show and tell of carnage. These first two show the shaped leaf in one the pack, yes these where ment to show off rust damage. It managed to split the frame above that pack and tore the shocks off.

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Dont know what this strange thing is that was on there but it snapped welds on it.

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It was a ordeal and a half to swap that frame, extra hand do come in handy tho. So one of the goals I have with the f250 is too stop the rust before it gets to this point and becomes a problem.

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[1mouse3]

I am debating a path to look foward to taking to about true the track width. I see the d60 has a wider track width than the 10.25 in the truck, the front wheels stand proud 2in more than the back.

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I am finding two options to true them up, plan A is a 10.50 from 05-10. I do see with the 00-04 10.50 can just redrill the hubs and run e-van rotors, issue here is when they change to the wider track in 05 it also got bigger brakes. I am finding a lack of data on the brake changes and whether the second run 10.50 ones could be used, or what they have going on, Are disk brakes any better on these truck over the drums used? Do also see it is passable to use the 3.55 guts out of a 10.25 using a 14 bolt pinon bearing.

https://irate4x4.com/general-4x4/95028-5-13-gears-for-sterling-10-5

https://www.powerstrokenation.com/threads/10-5-superduty-rear-hubs-to-8-on-6-5.115781/


Plan B is to run spacer, see two options being steel or aluminium. Would the cheap aluminium be a issue over steel ones and would there be a noticeable increase in wear on the wheel bearing from the extra side load?

https://www.wheeladapter.com/product/ford-older-to-98-truck-steel-spacers

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pc-USA-M...108875?hash=item3ab6ed4f8b:g:0tYAAOSwhQhY3T6q


Could also do a mix for plan C where use the 00-04 10.50 and run spacers to correct patter and gain disks, if worth it for disks and not plausible to switch the 05-10 10.50.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-USA-Made...026791?hash=item3cf95358e7:g:Z~8AAOSw9~5ZQF2P




EDIT: Looking at parts, Im seeing with the 05+ the hub face is moved out and the change made for the wider track. I am thinking the bigger brakes will be fit a 16in wheel, so will looks like B or C would be the options left.

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[1mouse3]

Further digging on these axles, it looks like is possable that the 00-04 10.50 is about same width as the d60. If so and a axle from the junk yard being $150, that would put a swap at cost of the steel adapters. That would be a win win if so, would get rear disk and have reason to get the 3:55. Would have to do some hunting and find both at the same time, swap the guts then have them pull it.


http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/s...590af0a0b2e2729943136e97&p=235813&postcount=3

 

[fordw60s]

Yes the bars help a lot. I just put in some old style L&L bars that worked well while running 38.5"x14.50' swampers ( https://www.landlproducts.com/ladder-bars)

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This was after my solid axle conversion with them and 39.5" TSL

As far as the spacing from the front to the back all 4wd trucks have that. It never really bothered me much. My jeep isn't too bad. not as noticeable.

 

[1mouse3]

Yes the bars help a lot. I just put in some old style L&L bars that worked well while running 38.5"x14.50' swampers ( https://www.landlproducts.com/ladder-bars)

Not a bad option and about same cost as the pmf one, thanks for another option to think about.

As far as the spacing from the front to the back all 4wd trucks have that. It never really bothered me much. My jeep isn't too bad. not as noticeable.

If Im correct, setting the rear wheel in vs the front gives understeer where the opposite is oversteer. Running fatter rear tires also gives oversteer, I like that on the f100 and bmw. The bmw also has 2.5° front and 1.5° rear negative camber that gives oversteer on top of what the staggered tire set I have on it dose. Having oversteer means I can use the throttle to steer the vehicle as opposed to understeer where if in the throttle it wont do jack to steer. It is preference to how I drive and would rather it not fight what Im doing. I am not looking for oversteer on this truck but dont want understeer, a neutral stance is what I would like with this one.


Both 2wd 71's, f100 I have and f250 I had where not equal in track width as well. On the f100 went with a high offset 9in wheel with a 275 on the rear with 235 on 7in front, it would roust a 235 on the rear to easy and the 275 is just right. On the f250 did 305 rear and 285 front just for looks but found liked what it did for steering.

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[1mouse3]

Yes, yes, I should had made an effort to check the alignment further on snow white but have been chassing too many other things. It is close to 5k miles so far and the back tires are to the fiirst wear bar on the inside with the front showing slight wear with a chop on the outside, in an effort to even the wear out I went and rotated the tires. Sorry for got to take pick but will get them when have a chance and dont think is going to matter that they are wearing bad since they are showing cracks now. After I had gone and did this she now has the shakes, it was bad at first but was do to the track bar getting losse with it now being mild. That probably came losse doing reverse barke checks to set the rear some, the auto adjust keeps falling off and since was apart through it back on. This is the tack bar I am using and dont care for this heim joint, it only dose good if the ends are set opposing. if left to flop around will come losse quick and when tought it is only when there is abrupt movement. I is only shaking when coasting mostly and when there is a load will stop, have to make a run tomorrow and will see if that stops its.

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