From what I have read here the factory fuel heater is a joke anyway and not very efficient. Deleting the factory heater and installing an aftermarket heater would be my choice if I lived where the temps got really low.
I went the cheap and fast route but it has worked for several years now--just remove the electrical connector and apply enough JB Weld to thoroughly seal over the connector. Normally I would never use JB Weld to "fix" anything but this was recommended by a respected member here so I went with it. YMMV.
I kept everything original and bought a new one. Total waste of money; should have deleted it and plugged the port. But it still does nothing like it was intended so I have that going for me.
Mine leaked for a while; since mine is on a van, it drenched the valley pan with fuel. Figured it out recently, after parking her for months. Only when I test drove with air cleaner (and doghouse cover!!!) off. Yep, fuel ran down the back of the bracket and into the valley pan. Crazy voodoo.
Our fuel heaters DO NOT WORK.... First off the "heater" is on top of the fuel.Every other type of heat is applied to a pot from the bottom.Heat will raise. Secondly the factory DID NOT tell us to turn on the ignition switch for 7 minutes to allow the heater to warm up the fuel. It still has never explained if the heater continues to run as long as the engine is running. So ya say ya wanna keep it original... Well thats none of my business. BTW there is 2 o rings in the heater electrical fitting but usually its only one that leaks. Remember this fuel filter area has maybe 6 lbs of fuel pressure on it. Filling the hole with JB Weld or RTV will seal it forever.
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