1991 7.3 starter ?

[LittleLucy27]

Hi all
My truck turns the starter slowly then quickly then slowly. Sometimes starts with a jump. My boyfriend mechanic wants to replace the starter. However I'm not sure that's it.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Hi all
My truck turns the starter slowly then quickly then slowly. Sometimes starts with a jump. My boyfriend mechanic wants to replace the starter. However I'm not sure that's it.

While you or him are cranking it over, have the party of the second part jiggle the battery cables close to where they connect to the battery. If it's the original connectors, a lot of times this weird green stuff will form inside the wire itself close to the connector and cause a weak connection and produce what you're describing.

You got this! And good call on not blaming the starter......yet....I mean, it could be the starter, but I'm leaning towards the cables.

 

[rreegg]

If you’re into throwing parts at a vehicle I do recommend just replacing the starter. They’re cheap peace of mind and are a wear and tear item. Have never owned a vehicle where the starter didn’t need to be replaced eventually.
I also recommend due diligence by diagnosing the entire starting system in case something like the battery/battery cables/etc are going bad.

If you’re budget conscious the starter can also be rebuilt to extend life.

A lot of ways to handle this but I replaced my starter last November out of necessity (after due diligence with other items)

 

[LittleLucy27]

Soooooo..... there's oil on things could that be it?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Possibly. If oil got inside the starter, then it could affect how it works.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Soooooo..... there's oil on things could that be it?

Yeah, could be.

 

[DirtyWood]

Soooooo..... there's oil on things could that be it?

I've had starters with quite a bit of oil dripped over them but they kept on going. You really need to check the battery cables for corrosion or physical damage. And of course the batteries need to be healthy, as in holding a minimum charge of 12.6 volts. I'd check the battery voltage first thing in the morning before trying to start the engine.

 

[BeastMaster]

Does the starter speed vary in a pattern, like a musical beat?

If so,

is it consistent with the revolution of the starter motor?
( If so, suspect starter commutator/brush problem . Did fuel or oil get IN the starter and glaze ( like burned-on dinner in the frying pan ) on the starter commutator/brush assembly? Fluid leaks seem to be attracted to starter motors, as they are usually mounted at a low point. )

Is it consistent with the revolution of the engine?
( If so, suspect a cylinder compression issue. Your boyfriend mechanic would probably recognize this "melody" immediately. ). Hope it's not a head gasket or cavitation thing.

If no pattern is noted ( human brains are excellent pattern detectors - it's music in a way ), I second Jesus Freak's advice. I've seen the exact same thing he described. The battery cables look and may even feel intact, but inside, it's just corroded copper where years of battery acid have wicked into the cable and ate the copper.

Personally, I like a small battery powered oscilloscope for checking out this sort of thing, as it shows quick events and freezes them. It's kinda like comparing a photo to a movie.

This is what I use...

Amazon.com

You can electrically verify the connection by measuring directly to the battery terminals, + and - poles, before and during start, then look at what shows up at the starter motor.

It's a 2-person job...one to fiddle with the key, and the other to fiddle with the scope and probes, as it's really risky to fiddle with clips around starter motors...one slip and, well, you know...flying molten copper.

I find it a lot easier to measure, then wrench.

 

[Jesus Freak]

I sure hope we get closure on this one, I might loose sleep if we don't.

Hey @Nero , she's up in your corner of earth, would you go figure it out so me and the @BeastMaster can settle our brains!

 

[Greenie]

With 2 batteries one battery can either be bad or the terminals loose and corroded leaving one battery to turn the engine over slower. It's still 12+ volts on the good battery but the other battery might not be participating. I'd check, clean and tighten all 4 battery terminals before replacing anything.

 

[IDIBOBS]

Hi all
My truck turns the starter slowly then quickly then slowly. Sometimes starts with a jump. My boyfriend mechanic wants to replace the starter. However I'm not sure that's it.

Some of you guys are really funny. If it some times starts with a jump it is NOT a mechanical problem with the motor or a belt/accessory bearing. This is an electrical issue. Battery’s, cable, ground or starter. It’s very easy the check ohm resistance on battery cables and grounds without even in hooking them. This will require a very cheap meter. Mechanic boy friend should know how. The batteries can be tested by local auto parts store in the truck or out. The machine they use will print out a report like a receipt. If the cables have low to no resistance and the grounds check out and the battery’s check out then it’s the starter. I highly recommend getting one with a life time warranty from a local/national auto parts store. That way you never pay for a starter again. Keep all paper receipts in the glove box or a file at home, just incase something happens to the stores computers.

 

[BeastMaster]

Some of you guys are really funny. If it some times starts with a jump it is NOT a mechanical problem with the motor or a belt/accessory bearing. This is an electrical issue. Battery’s, cable, ground or starter. It’s very easy the check ohm resistance on battery cables and grounds without even in hooking them.

Absolutely agreed. Didja get cross threaded with this : ?

6.9 IDI E350 Van died while running, and no longer cranks

My diesel van died a few months ago while running and haven't been able to get it to start. All it does is clicks when trying to start, and I can't use a breaker bar on the crank, was wondering if my fuel pump could be locked up? Also before it died it had what sounded like popping, and it was...

www.oilburners.net

You know how we are...anyone showing up over here with a problem gets deluged with tales of all sorts of war stories from others who have fought off anything that looks like it. It's our version of gaming, but instead of "enemies", we try to get our truck fixed. We score if anyone benefitted by participating in the melee.

I am just as guilty as any about posting on the other thread about frozen accessory bearings. I guess it was 50 years ago or so...a neighbor's car did that. They called 'em "generators" back then, and his was locked solid. I was just an observer. But I never forgot the lesson. I learned a lot that day by just walking over, seeing my neighbor with hood up, and asking if he needed anything ( thinking a parts run may be needed ).

We did things that way in the old days. Before the days of homeowner associations, city code enforcement meddlers, patent/copyright/DRM corporate litigation over who had permission to fix things, anything out of warranty was fair game. I would either fix it, or break it real good.

 

[LittleLucy27]

Well NUTS! So.... not to cry the blues but the significant other is facing jail time for DV habitual. The point, though, is he broke the hood release. I went out to start with the voltage on the batteries, etc.
I'll google.
It's my truck. I worked on it myself for years before he came along
Gggggrrrrrrr

 

[LittleLucy27]

I got the hood open. The batteries are at 11.8 after a couple of weeks. Ave yeah the cables and terminals need attention. I'll work on those first. I've replace and cleaned all of these so I'm not a stranger

 

[IDIBOBS]

I got the hood open. The batteries are at 11.8 after a couple of weeks. Ave yeah the cables and terminals need attention. I'll work on those first. I've replace and cleaned all of these so I'm not a stranger

Sorry to hear about the law troubles but I’m sure you’ve got this. Take your time. Don’t cross the wires be safe. Use eye protection gloves ect and go after it.