1989 F-250 7.3 Project

[hacked89]

anyone know where to order a new rain cowl that was discussed? I couldnt find it on LMC truck.
I ordered new mirrors and they will be here today.

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[laserjock]

anyone know where to order a new rain cowl that was discussed? I couldnt find it on LMC truck.
I ordered new mirrors and they will be here today.

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The cowl seal?

LMC has them.

 

[hacked89]

I resealed the oil dipstick tube and used a copper crush washer from one of my kits, and the oil leaking seems much better.

I then got the pieces for the mirrors.
For anyone else, these are western/swing style. There is about 9" between the top and bottom bracket, not less then 9.
The bolts I used that are proper for the threads are 6mmx16.

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For the wiring mess, I eyeballed through it, and almost all of the factory harness is unmolested. The abortion is primarily the following things added on top.
1. Double din radio
2. Air compressor/air horns
3. Front light bar
4. Rear light bar
5. Interior led lights
6. (2) air pumps under the hood

My plan is to remove all of these things and the associated wiring and either keep them off or redo the things I need myself.

Going off that, last night I took it on its first maiden voyage that didn't require a towtruck and it started and ran real well in freezing temps and manual gplugs.

Except..I almost had no brakes at two different points and I'm not sure exactly why. See attached pictures.

The air pump on the drivers side, feeds the vacuum booster for the brakes. So if the brakes are rock hard (which they were) then it means this pump isn't on. The currently unknown to me is that this pump was on, I had the hood open and verified.
The pump that wasnt on was the summit pump on the passengers side.
Anytime that pump is off, theres no brakes even though it's not supplying the vacuum for the booster.

You can see the vacuum line and pump with the red annotation in the picture.

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Now in the green annotated picture is the passenger side pump that is running all the trucks vacuum instead of the vacuum pump of the motor.

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Anyway, you can see by the straight green lines where the pump is and where the vacuum T is on the firewall for the motor.
It goes to 4 things and below are my guesses.

1. Some valve behind the injection pump
2. This is a vacuum controller on the fender not sure what it's for
3. Going into the cabin, hvac?
4. Going towards the transmission, vacuum 4x4 for the tcase?

I dont see how losing this green annotated pump makes the brakes go away when its bypassed by the red annotated pump.



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[IDIBRONCO]

It's possible that the pump supplying vacuum to the brakes can't keep up with the demand. They don't always supply the needed volume of vacuum, inches of vacuum, or both.

 

[hacked89]

The cowl seal?

LMC has them.

Ordered the hood to cowl seal

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[hacked89]

It's possible that the pump supplying vacuum to the brakes can't keep up with the demand. They don't always supply the needed volume of vacuum, inches of vacuum, or both.

That is true in theory, but these two pumps are exclusive of each others function so one should only affect it's supplying utilities.

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[hacked89]

Earlier in this thread I asked about what that inline metal piece was near the brake booster. I figured it out, it's a vacuum pressure switch. It looks like it might be missing a piece to it. It's grounded so it would have the ability to turn the pump on and off instead of it always running like I have now. The relays for these vacuum pumps dont follow industry labeling, and cost $21 for direct replacement.
I'm decently sure they are SPST relays. I'm going to whiteboard how each should be wired with the pressure switch and all the components. Once I figure it out I'll post it, and how its converted from the expensive relay sold by the vendor.

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[IDIBRONCO]

That is true in theory, but these two pumps are exclusive of each others function so one should only affect it's supplying utilities.

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I'm just wondering if you could reproduce your no power assist to the brakes issue. As in do you use the brakes multiple times in a row, not giving the pump enough recovery time? There is no way that the two pumps could affect each other since they're not connected. The only possibility is that I can come up with is if they are both using the same power wire. If, for some reason, it loses power from time to time, then it could seem like one affects the other. Also #1 is the VRV that controls the shifting. #4 should be coming off of the VRV going down to the vacuum modulator on your transmission.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

What were the conditions that you lost brake assist? It's most likely that you just had too much demand for that pump to supply the vacuum. Adding a reservoir should help, they had one stock on an engine-driven pump. I doubt whatever you have is so significantly faster than the OEM pump that it wouldn't help your application.

But again it depends on the situation you were in when you lost brakes. Could be nothing more than a loose wire or bad sensor in the pump.

BTW it looks like a dang Christmas tree under that hood with all those colored wires!

 

[hacked89]

I'm just wondering if you could reproduce your no power assist to the brakes issue. As in do you use the brakes multiple times in a row, not giving the pump enough recovery time? There is no way that the two pumps could affect each other since they're not connected. The only possibility is that I can come up with is if they are both using the same power wire. If, for some reason, it loses power from time to time, then it could seem like one affects the other. Also #1 is the VRV that controls the shifting. #4 should be coming off of the VRV going down to the vacuum modulator on your transmission.

Man, right thanks. I think they both might be spliced into the same switched power good call. And for the #s verification.

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[hacked89]

What were the conditions that you lost brake assist? It's most likely that you just had too much demand for that pump to supply the vacuum. Adding a reservoir should help, they had one stock on an engine-driven pump. I doubt whatever you have is so significantly faster than the OEM pump that it wouldn't help your application.

But again it depends on the situation you were in when you lost brakes. Could be nothing more than a loose wire or bad sensor in the pump.

BTW it looks like a dang Christmas tree under that hood with all those colored wires!

It is that time of year haha.
And yep I think it's how the switched power is spliced. I was contemplating adding a reservoir in and now I think I will.

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[hacked89]

New cowl seal came

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[hacked89]

It's unusually warm today for this time of year in PA, and I'm going to attempt a 4 hour round trip from SE PA to the Pocono Mountains. The truck hasn't made it more than 1 hour without a towtruck previously. Wish me luck. I'm going to bring tools and electrical.

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[hacked89]

Well. Made it about 2 miles, smelled something burning, driver side front brake caliper is stuck.
The only thing I changed before this drive besides the truck sitting for months was running an electric vacuum pump directly to the booster. I thought maybe somehow this could have been an issue even though I've read it cant have too much vacuum. So now I'm in a school parking light brainstorming.

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[Thewespaul]

Couple things that will cause this. Most common is swelling brake hoses, rusty stuck calipers can do it too. Master cylinder rod could be adjusted wrong and holding some pressure on brakes, and of course air in the brake lines as well.

IF you just need to get it home, get a vice grip and pinch off the brake hose for that wheel, then open the bleeder to relax any pressure.