1987 Crew Cab 2WD Build

[5 oclock]

I was going to tackle the steering shaft, box, and tie rods. Which made me question if I had to by the entire rods or if there was a way to refit new ends (circled in the photo) after removing the pitman arm I took some photos of its condition. Thoughts? It's an expensive piece that I would rather not buy if I don't have to.

Also any pointers on taking it all off and put back on? I heard keep the tires straight. They aren't currently.

 

[5 oclock]

I also started my 101 effort to bend the lines for the fuel pump rig. First pic is a mock up. Second pic is a piece of debri tool that will get returned, you would think it was made from wood. 3rd pic is another piece of garbage tool. You may be able to see in the pic the teeth sheared off after attempting to straiten the first 1' of 3/8" hard line lol. That also will be going back. It's what I get for trying to save money.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I was going to tackle the steering shaft, box, and tie rods. Which made me question if I had to by the entire rods or if there was a way to refit new ends (circled in the photo) after removing the pitman arm I took some photos of its condition. Thoughts? It's an expensive piece that I would rather not buy if I don't have to.

Also any pointers on taking it all off and put back on? I heard keep the tires straight. They aren't currently.

There isn't any way to replace only the circled ends. You have to replace the entire piece. As long as the hole (where the tie rod end goes through) in your pitman arm is in good shape, I don't feel that there's any reason to replace it. The only exception would be if you're adding a lift. Then a dropped pitman arm is a good thing to install.
As for the reinstall, I fell that it's more important to keep the steering wheel straight than it is to have the tires straight. The tires can be adjusted with your tie rod ends. The steering lock helps to keep the wheel straight while you're doing the adjustments. I go until the tires look pretty straight. Then I'll measure the toe and try to get 1/16"-1/8" toe in. You can then start the truck and move it back some and them forward again . Shut it off and check the steering wheel and tires. If everything is still straight, I feel that it's close enough to get to an alignment shop. That's my method whether it's right or wrong. As an extra note, I've tried taking measurements before the steering links removal and then putting it back exactly the same and have never had good luck by trying it. The steering wheel was always quite a ways off. I gave up and went with the above method last December on my Blue Truck and I didn't have nearly the headache that I did while I was trying to keep everything perfect.

 

[Big Bart]

Ditto with what IDIBronco said. Non-servicable, by the way yours look pretty rough. If yours have play, likely new ones will likely pay for themselves with less tire wear. If not you could still use them till they do.

The big thing is to measure your toe at 9 o clock (Front of tire.) and 3 o clock (Back of tire.) so you don't wear your tires out getting to the aligment shop. As IDIBronco mentions have a little toe in (9 o clocks (Front of tire towards bumper.) are slightly closer than 3 o clocks. (Rear of tire closer to cab.))

Some other food for thought.

1) New cotter pins, Ace Hardware carries stainless ones.
2) If you replace the tie rods and drag link. Get a new center adjuster and clamps (Part that adjusts your toe.), by now it is rusted up and will make doing the aligment more difficult.
3) While you are going this far, you might as well check the ball joints for wear.
4) If doing your steering box, think about new PS lines.

 

[5 oclock]

OK gentlemans. Some questions. Thanks in advance for help!

1.When I cranked that head to 150 and snapped the stud I squeezed that felpro gasket to that pressure. Today I put the head back on at the 110 ft lbs using the same gasket. Is that ok?

2.In the pic below I have a 12" cooler. My idea is to use this as pictured. Will that ps fluid radiator work equal, better, or worse than the stock coil (IYHO)?

3. I lost track of pushrod sequence . Additionally there was pitting on a couple of the original rods. Out of my OCD nature I went ahead and ordered new Elgin's. I dont need new rockers correct? There was 0 miles on the engines other then an assumed quality control check start from the rebuilder.

 

[5 oclock]

Flared the lines and assembled the e pump filter line up today. Going to fab a frame to utilize all securment points on the top of the filter housing. This assembly will sit on the frame rail. The Holly regulator will be where the old unit was, top of engine.

 

[Big Bart]

1) If it was me, I would replace the head gaskets, why risk it?
2) Not sure, the concept is the ps fluid cools by going a long distance. I wonder if yours going a short distance with less fluid volume is as effective. I don’t know. You could try it and see.
3) if the push rod ends are the same size, I see no reason to have to replace the rockers if they look good. Just make sure you pre load them properly.

 

[5 oclock]

Ok good point. Has anyone used the ccd head gasket?

Preload?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Preload?

I assume that he meant torque them properly.

 

[Big Bart]

Not sure on a idi, never looked it up, so you will want to look it up.(Maybe there is not one, but then I would question how would you address when you shave down the heads, or buy new aftermarket push rods.)

Most hydraulic lifters have a preload setting. We were doing some on a Mopar the other day. The directions were to take out the slack at tdc of compression stroke and go another 1.5 turns on the adjuster. Thus the valves will close and open properly under proper oil pressure conditions. Guessing a idi would have something similar, maybe not.

 

[5 oclock]

Open the box and found this intake manifold gasket kinked. Amazon was cool and refunded me my money. I went to purchase a new one and they are no where to be found from any brand anywhere! Am I missing something? A brand or vendor that has stock?

Anyway is this reparable with a little permetex or is it not worthing mucking with? I hate to do it but with supply chains so bad right now I am not sure on how much idi parts are being prioritized.

 

[5 oclock]

Called fel pro they forecast inventory second week to middle of August. Geez. 2 steps forward one step back lol

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Called fel pro they forecast inventory second week to middle of August. Geez. 2 steps forward one step back lol

That's faster than what others have said. They said that Fel-Pro was saying not until into next year. Just in case, you may want to hang on to that gasket. You can use some RTV to help it seal if you have to.

 

[5 oclock]

Ok question. I got the felpro gasket. Doesn't fit. I'm not sure what to do. What has been others experience? Do they normally fit well? Do I need to pull it and enlarge the holes. This is a joke. It's shaving bolt threads on entry.

 

[5 oclock]

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