1987 Crew Cab 2WD Build

5 oclock

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With so much going on with my ever evolving project I thought I would share. Please keep in mind my technical experience includes small engine shop class in high school and some VW work in my 20's. However much of that experience was under the oversight of a mechanic friend.

I purchased this truck for 1500$. It was running. Running hot! Come to find out running hot with no fluids. No rust at all except from bottom of left and right front fenders. I love the truck and thought I would try to do her a solid and build myself a reliable family ride. Why do it myself? Well.. I'm a behind the times kind of 34 year old guy and I want to be more like my grandfather than this new generation of derelicts. Old values..make it happen yourself.. quit the whining.. by the book principled life. To that end I want my kids to remember me as the dad who could fix everything, worked my ass off, and loved them. It's a balance as I have a demanding day job. I digress...Being on here has led to a lot of help from those who have done it, and I appreciate that. Immensely, both now and for any and all co tinued support.

The build:
New remanufactured engine from diesel dealers. 6.9l. Non turbo. I am turboing the truck with a stock + setup Russ is helping me with. Can't say enough positive things about Russ.

I'm running 910 springs and ARP studs. I am building my own fuel system out of a walbro 392 and Baldwin filters (it will be similar to R&D). It will be the bypass with the Holly regulator. I would have ran the manual thw reman one got hit hard enough to break it and my current one is god knows how old. I don't know my ultimate plans for the truck other than to keep it forever. More fuel could mean more fun at some point in the future.

I did purchase the billet return line kit from Justin who is a stand up guy in my book. BTW the rails came in beautifully. They are quality, built right, and I look forward to seeing them perform.

I have the driveline being rebuilt by precision driveline here in Oregon. They are fast, honest, and so far on top of it!

I got the glow plug harness from CCD along with some other odds and ends including the fuel sump kit. I am not sure how I feel so far about the parts and pieces I have ordered we will see as I get further along. I will say the gph is quality in hand. Communication has left some to be desired.

The tranny I had rebuilt by Monster. That was a mistake. It has not been installed uet but was too much money, the rebuild ran over on time, it isn't the correct color, and their service aligns with common consensus. Not great. We will see how she performs. This was a live and learn. I should have done way more research.

It will have new window seals all the way around because it's leaking somewhere. Thankfully we hit the dry season in Oregon and it's allowing me time to get it mobile.

The entire interior is out. It will be reupholstered by my mother (just a slip cover really). The carpet is gray wool from a local market contact. It was left over from a job I had. I am repainting the interior trim the SEM color Camel. I also have a new headliner I am going to handle. New speakers, new deck, and glow shift dials. Water temp, egr, oil pressure, and boost.

I ordered a redhead manual steering box. And a new upgraded intermediate shaft. Those should be here soon.

I'm doing all of this out of my very small garage and my driveway. I'm at the wiring stage as some of you may know. Wish me luck, I will keep you posted.
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5 oclock

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Repainted the top hat and banks oil filler pressure overflow last weekend.

I cleaned the old fuel lines by soaking them in vinegar. Red pad scrubbing them. Then sprayed them down blew air through the lines. Followed that by soaking in wd 40. These will eventually be painted military tan.

I also Flux core repaired the valve cover that had a small whole and then cleared it with rustoleum gloss ceramic clear. I want the engine to have a new world old world look using some parts from what is 40 years old and some from today.
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5 oclock

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I purchased this champion aluminum radiator many many months ago. Waiting for the build. I thought today why don't I open her up to track down the tranny cooler fitting size. After opening I thought I was on a psycho trip. The thing looks like you are viewing it in the high sierra. Not happy...at all!! Unfortunately to add insult to injury I have little recourse due to the "30 day policy". I ordered it from Car ID. We will see how they handle it. It falls under a warranty claim. Being it has received no action my hope is they will solve this dismal display of quality control.

On a positive note the redhead came and she looks Purdy. Well packaged and clean! Gotta love local and AMERICAN
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asmith

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woah. I know guys have complained about shipping damage from Champion and not great quality leading to leaks fairly quickly, but I have never heard of that!! looks like a crosseyed drunkard freehand put that together. they better take that back, obviously it was nothing you did!!
 

subway

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That is terrible, it has some serous sway to it. I hope they can fix it for you, it is a little hard to tell in the pics but is the core built that way or did the whole radiator take a side hit?
 

5 oclock

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Core is definitely built this way. To create this bow the force would have left a serious mark, all metal is blemish free.

My first email request was declined by Car ID. They stated it's beyond the 30 days. Yet they also mentioned there is a lifetime warranty from champion for a leak free radiator. So essentially what I got from that is they need me to put this in (if it will fit) to see if it leaks? I emailed again with more firm agitation and they held posture with an ol' "nothing we can do". They are taking the matter to the supervisor and they will let me know in 3-5 days if they have e pull an "exception". Thinking this is an exception is exactly the kind of delirium you find in service these days. I don't know how they let this out the door! You would have to be blind!

It's certainly a lesson learned on my part. Despite and all legitimate reasons for not opening something right away. Open it! Thankfully I kept my original radiator. There is a place nearby that does an excellent rebuild if it comes to that.
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Bradd Barmettler

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Indeed, many challeges buying parts online.

1) Returns cost them real money, so they try to mitigate with rules, boundries, and limitations.
2) Many say you have to pick up the shipping on any return. Worse yet you have to pay to ship back cores! (At least Rock Auto will do a discounted shipping label for you, then take it out of the core value.)
3) Like yesterday, we got the wrong fuel tank level gauge from Rock Auto. They do not offer the correct one. Now I have spend time online, go to shipping a shipping store, and wait for them to process my return to get my money back.
4) You cannot just run back to the auto parts store right now and say wrong/bad part, I will take a different one, and leave with the part. (Or know the part you need will be in later that day or first thing tomorrow.)
5) Often damaged shipments have to be reported in 24-48 hours. Returns often declined after 30 days. Orielly's and my local independant parts store will take things back 60-90 days later.
6) Shipping can take up to a week. VS get the part today.
7) They often do not want to even take your phone call, e-mail or chat only.

For me if not in a hurry and the savings is significant, I roll the dice. If I need a vehicle back on the road I buy local, or recore, or have a local rebuilder re-furbish. I also try to go OEM/stock so I do not have to spend time making something fit or work. I feel my time is worth money, the part should just fit.
 

5 oclock

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I hear you. However at the end of the day I don't care what the policy is. Not with something so obvious. Frankly I would be more accepting if I put it in and it leaked. That is in some ways more acceptable while still being more time consuming. With first appearance being of such poor quality it raises suspicion.

On to another question. I start putting the engine back together. I had the heads cleaned and springs replaced by a local shop. Upon further inspection I found the pictures below. Engine shop did an ok job far as I can tell. I had to clean some remaining gasket off [emoji849](makes me question everything). The second pics holes in question are packed with dense red waxy material. The first was hardly packed and I cleaned them out to the point they are now. What's the story here? What are they supposed to look like? All help appreciated.
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Bradd Barmettler

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5 oclock.

I have not had the heads off an IDI so no expert on those holes. Let's see what others have to say.

I appears from first glance they are coolant passages. If they are, I would then look to see if they match up to the intake manifold to create a passage to heat it. Or if the intake manifold/gasket blocks those holes and they are there from the casting process. (But not used.)

If they do go through the intake manifold I would clean them out so you have coolant flow again. To your point in this case the machine shop should have hot tanked and handled that.

If they do not go through the intake manifold I would take a closer look. Is this years of rust and old coolant or actual wax?

If just rust and coolant muck I would clean it all out to prevent it from coming off into the cooling system. (Could help with your over heating.)

If actual wax then perhaps its from the casting process and ended up here after melting down as the engine heated up. (Maybe or maybe not usual.) Or perhaps its put there at the factory to help prevent the gasket from failing by keeping the coolant off the gasket. Thus you would want to do some more research to figure out if still needed at this point in the game. (Or see if members on this site can guide you.)

Some other members should comment today or tomorrow who have had the heads off or rebuilt their motors and can let you know if they saw the same thing and what they did if so.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I appears from first glance they are coolant passages. If they are, I would then look to see if they match up to the intake manifold to create a passage to heat it. Or if the intake manifold/gasket blocks those holes and they are there from the casting process. (But not used.)
Yes they are coolant passages. IIRC the 7.3s had stainless plugs in these and they were round, but the 6.9s used to valley pan to keep coolant inside the heads. No engine coolant goes into our intakes for any reason.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Here you can just see the holes and plugs in the heads on the 7.3 that's in my Blue Truck right now. I wasn't taking a picture of the plugs so I didn't care how or if they were in the pictures.

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5 oclock

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Got it.. Ok so will the gasket seal that or is there some other means by which I block these? Combination of both?

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