paul w
Registered User
I have new selinoids new ignition switch and have power after fusable links.
1986 6.9 no pwer to fuse box or key
- Thread starter paul w
- Start date
What part of the fuse box? Part of it is hot all the time, part of it is hot only with the key in run.
Brake lights, marker lights, hazard lights, cigarette lighter, radio memory are hot all the time. Blower fan, radio, turnsignals, etc would be powered only with the key. Check and see what you have and what you don't have.
Brake lights, marker lights, hazard lights, cigarette lighter, radio memory are hot all the time. Blower fan, radio, turnsignals, etc would be powered only with the key. Check and see what you have and what you don't have.
paul w
Registered User
I have no power with key on or off at fuse box, tested with test light grounded to batt. ive cleaned all grounds positive terminals ,block grounds chassis ground. I have beacon ,aux lights that are hooked direct to batt that work. I can jump relay and crank motor no start.
There are large yellow wires that leave the starter relay area over in the pass side inner fender area, and run up through the firewall to the fuse box and the ignition switch. These are the main feed wires. I would get a testlight and poke these to see if they have power.
You can see the yellow wires I am talking about in the diagrams in this link. On the first page you can see them running along the top of the diagram from left to right and they continue on the second page diagram.
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=27259
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=27259
If it's the fusible link....I've replaced it on every truck. I use these:
It's a 40 amp fuse ... comes with comes with 8 gauge (I believe) pig tales about 6" long ... about $11 at O'Reilly. ((EDIT: Part # MAH1 Line: (Lit) made by Littlefuse)) I also disable that stupid heater on every truck ... not convinced that it does anything good.
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It's a 40 amp fuse ... comes with comes with 8 gauge (I believe) pig tales about 6" long ... about $11 at O'Reilly. ((EDIT: Part # MAH1 Line: (Lit) made by Littlefuse)) I also disable that stupid heater on every truck ... not convinced that it does anything good.
Does the 40 amp seem to hold ok? I would think that might be borderline being big enough. Worst case in my experience is driving at night with the lights on, and the A/C on with the blower on high. The electrical system on these trucks was borderline as far as size from the factory anyway.
P.S. I just looked at the diagram a little closer, they do split the system up among several different fusible links, so I guess there is not just one that holds everything.
I'm not sure what year truck you have but if you have power after the links, check your main harness connector. Fusible links can lie to you to. I chased one for a while. Would read twelve bolts with meter but hook something to it and it would go to zero. It was just hanging by a thread inside.
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