parallel turbos

1mouse3 · Mar 5, 2024

When looking it over, found loose sensors that where leaking and chased those. Since oil was a leak, spend the day trying to stop that but new places keep popping up. I got it down to one spraying at the ballencer and getting all over the place, will clean it and see if can find it. The miss went away but it is still stubbern to get off idle, did change the ips time around and that was not the issue. Going a 1/16 of a inch to the passenger got rid of some the knock. I think the passenger pipe is to tough and is making noises louder, that will be on the list.

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jwsfarrier · Mar 5, 2024

sorry for the thread hack. just for my conformation the dampner should be at 0 degrees TDC (dampner mark even with mark with the timing mark on the tab next to dampner). Thank you for the help

jwsfarrier · Mar 6, 2024

this is in regard to hacked89's post about setting the rockers. thanks !

1mouse3 · Mar 6, 2024

hacked89 said:
Yea I hear something wrong but I can’t tell on the video. Running it with the valve covers off and verifying the torque on the rocks is a good start. I assume you know where to clock the dampener for initially installing and torquing the rockers.

I would set them hand tighten them every quater turn of the crank, and any that bottom out get tourqued. For checking it be the same ever 1/4, but watching witch dont move. I did a quick search on it for this engin and someone said 11:00...

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At that point I would be able to check most but also wanted to check if the push rods where right, it was metioned a plated end should be up. They where all tight on the drive side and had to flip most, it looked like nickel on most with a shinny end except one that was copper looking. The rear one on the passenger side would need the hvac box removed, so that side is another day.

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This is testing the rockers for function when cranking after tourqing most rockers down...

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This is 10% of what it was, its some sort of rust infused sludge. It was flacking some, so tryed to brush it with a drill and cleaner. That did not realy do anything since was part the metal, so steped up to acid and brush. This the best could get it and should not flake.

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Dont know why this drain was leaking on this turbo, but picked that out and replaced it.

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This made the passenger side exhaust too tought...

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So made change to give it play and the injector lines are clamped, so anything that could ring is sorted. The driver side is also clamped up, so is close to ready to move. Just need to put the brake lines back on and blead.

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1mouse3 · Mar 7, 2024

I am not sure if Im venting the crankcase well, need to run it with the oil cap off so dose not barf oil out seal. Not sure if its that the end need to go to a tube and not the filter, or that the fitting shoved in the vally pan is too restrictive. A oil gauge was cheaper than a sensor, that was the path to check that and was over 25psi. I put the cluster in and see that the max rpm is around 1500-1650, and if try to force past this there is white then black smoke but thick white/gray if held here. At 8 degrees on a timing, I get the green line at 750rpm and the red line at the 1650. So may want to try retarding the pump some, and see what happens. Past that, Im not sure where to test next or to try. Also not sure if the 6g alternator is wired right, since dont think is charging.

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Jesus Freak · Mar 8, 2024

You'll get it! Because you're the MAN for the job!

BlindAmbition · Mar 8, 2024

I'd move your crankcase vent to one or both of your intake tubes instead of the end of the air filter. There should be more suction after the filter than before.

hacked89 · Mar 8, 2024

You may have tried some of this, what I would do:
1. Run it without valve covers (maybe you still have them off) this would also negate anything you think is by the “cdr” . If not, you already ran it with the oil cap off which does the same thing.
2. Compression test
3. Pull your boot off the intake and run it without the turbos and all that in the pic and see if it runs different
4. Did you use a new ip and injectors or known good for certain?

1mouse3 · Mar 8, 2024

BlindAmbition said:
I'd move your crankcase vent to one or both of your intake tubes instead of the end of the air filter. There should be more suction after the filter than before.

I all ready had someone sacrifice a tool...

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That got the hose on a tube...

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Then stuffed the hose inplace of the cap...

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Did not think what I stuffed in the vally pan was working, but its still not adequate to pull a vacuum.

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hacked89 said:
You may have tried some of this, what I would do:
1. Run it without valve covers (maybe you still have them off) this would also negate anything you think is by the “cdr” . If not, you already ran it with the oil cap off which does the same thing.
2. Compression test
3. Pull your boot off the intake and run it without the turbos and all that in the pic and see if it runs different
4. Did you use a new ip and injectors or known good for certain?

1. Just without the cap is enough to not have oil leak
2. Good ideal but dont have a gauge
3 Have tried it without one the sensors in the air horn, there is no noticeable vacuum or pressure when covered by my hand
4: The injection pump was working good on the 6.9 when parked 2 years ago, all injectors seem to work when cracked while running. I rebuilt the injectors that where put in this engine almost 2 years ago, and retesed with a cleaning 4 months ago when the pump and lines where put on. The injectors where set to ~1850psi when where done.

1mouse3 · Mar 8, 2024

I had the bright ideal to wing timeing the engine and saw something odd when doing so...

Roughly 6 flats to the drive side, the engine knocked more than I cared to let it run. So tried about 5 flats to the passenger side, and this is what I got. It did the most of a jump retard, when would push into the area the engine would bog and would not get a accurate rpm reading.

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So went to 3 flats to the driver side and got the best reading, but not close enough and did the same a little but rpm was right the wole time..

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So went to 1 flat to the driver side and got something getting close to the first...

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Im not redoing 1 flat to the passenger side. It was a little more than above and without a good rpm reading

BlindAmbition · Mar 9, 2024

Might need to run a vent tube to each intake tube, you're only scavenging from half your cylinders otherwise. Most things I read say to run 1", but I imagine you could do 3/4 if you're doubling up. I welded a pipe fitting to the IP cover plate on mine and am running 1" hose, but that is for one single turbo/intake

1mouse3 · Mar 9, 2024

This kit is using 12an and that is 3/4, so would not think the size house would be a problem. There could be a need for it ran to both intake tube but not sure on that right now. Something dose not seem right and would think I should be seeing pressure or vaccum at the sensor port on the air horn, it will not suck in starting fluid and have to spray into the port. So whats left is a compression test, because this seem like there is a lack in that department causing it not to burn fuel well. There is all oil or fuel building up in the exhaust, and when trying to rev it up there is all smoke with no action. I checked the timing and got it close enough that it should had smoothed out and give less pre/post ignition knock, but is seeming like low compression could be the cause of it. Also when I let it run for a few hours the other day, the coolant would seem to get hot fast and the exhaust manifolds would not get above 500f when holding the rpm up. Just sitting idling, the exhast manifolds would only get up to around 250f to 300f.

IDI CDR Delete/ Catch Can Kit

Delete your CDR valve and decrease your oil consumption with our catch can kit, this kit will reroute the crankcase gasses into our 8 layered, baffled, double bypass catch can from the valve covers or timing cover where the gasses are cooled passing through our 10 chambered design and any...

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Rdnck84_03 · Mar 9, 2024

The idling manifold temp sounds about right. To me it seems like an under fueling issue.

I don't remember what all you have checked out but what is the fuel pressure post filter when at higher rpm?

I know on mine I used to get a lot of bluish/Grey smoke on acceleration before I swapped the IP. Since you said this pump and injectors have been sitting unused for a couple I would try doing an atf or diesel treatment on them.

James

Booyah45828 · Mar 9, 2024

I'd say your pump is bad.

Timing should be set with the engine at operating temp, at 2000 rpm. Static timed, the pump/engine should rev up to 2000 rpm cleanly with no issues. The fact that you can't get there and various colors of smoking occurs when you try tells me there are internal pump issues. Was this a total rebuild? Could your pump somehow have gotten timed 180 out from where it should be?

On the meter, if you're getting the RPM jumping around/cutting out, your injector clamp isn't reading right. Clean the line more, reposition the clamp, reposition the ground, try everything.

Jesus Freak · Mar 9, 2024

Booyah45828 said:
I'd say your pump is bad.

Timing should be set with the engine at operating temp, at 2000 rpm. Static timed, the pump/engine should rev up to 2000 rpm cleanly with no issues. The fact that you can't get there and various colors of smoking occurs when you try tells me there are internal pump issues. Was this a total rebuild? Could your pump somehow have gotten timed 180 out from where it should be?

On the meter, if you're getting the RPM jumping around/cutting out, your injector clamp isn't reading right. Clean the line more, reposition the clamp, reposition the ground, try everything.

Good call on the 180 out! It will run, but like crap, I know a guy that did that........real close friend........uhhhhh ....

parallel turbos

1mouse3

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IDI CDR Delete/ Catch Can Kit

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