tbowker
Full Access Member
Exactly, that's an important difference from what my situation was.
Yet another heads thread
- Thread starter Nero
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- arp studs idi head gasket
Got the air box and turbo off. Figured that'd be a good place to stop.
For yall who have done an intercooler setup, where have you put the coolant overflow and the oil separator? Because I'm sure where they are will interfere with the cooler piping.
For yall who have done an intercooler setup, where have you put the coolant overflow and the oil separator? Because I'm sure where they are will interfere with the cooler piping.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I haven't done that yet, but I would suggest installing the intercooler and then seeing where you can put them.
I have the next few days off of work, planned pto. So I'm going to really lay into this getting it apart and cleaned up.
Few more questions I had,
When switching to the 90cc pump, do I need to get a better lift pump? I'm still using the mechanical one.
Is there a way to pull the heads without dumping the residual coolant from the heads into the cylinders?
And what would you guys suggest for cleaning the deck? At work we just use a pneumatic angle grinder with a wire wheel attachment. Is that too tough for these old iron blocks?
Few more questions I had,
When switching to the 90cc pump, do I need to get a better lift pump? I'm still using the mechanical one.
Is there a way to pull the heads without dumping the residual coolant from the heads into the cylinders?
And what would you guys suggest for cleaning the deck? At work we just use a pneumatic angle grinder with a wire wheel attachment. Is that too tough for these old iron blocks?
Austin86250
Full Access Member
I’ve ran the 90cc just fine with the mechanical pump
The issue is the new pumps don’t last so I’m going e fuel
You can drain the block to help with that
I’ve used a angle grinder wire wheel on oil pan deck front and rear covers just fine is that the right thing to do probably not but it works and doesn’t take the metal away
There are hex head coolant drains on each side of the block near the bottom. I replaced them with petcocks to make draining simpler.
Good idea
I think it should keep up. But if bot, then I recommend a Holley Black and regulator for something like that.
I’m afraid some coolant will probably get in the cylinders. I got pretty lucky and only got it in a couple of head bolt holes with my 7.3, simply vacuumed, and blew out, the holes before installing studs.
And what would you guys suggest for cleaning the deck? At work we just use a pneumatic angle grinder with a wire wheel attachment. Is that too tough for these old iron blocks?
Copper brush and plastic scraper. Be careful… oh and it takes awhile…
Head gaskets from CDD showed up. Still waiting on the intercooler kit. Called them up, apparently their plasma welder is acting up and they're 2 weeks behind.
Guess it's a good thing I'll be waiting on the heads for a minute.
Looking at the head gaskets, they're definitely just 7.3 gaskets with holes drilled through for the cooling mod.
I'm not too worried about it not having the rubber bits, on the heavy duty engines I work on, the coolant passes to the head are just drilled holes through the gasket material with no rubber seals of any kind. They aren't the full size as the passage though. An engineer explained to me one day that is to create a coolant restriction so the coolant actually has time to absorb heat from the head before flowing out.
Guess it's a good thing I'll be waiting on the heads for a minute.
Looking at the head gaskets, they're definitely just 7.3 gaskets with holes drilled through for the cooling mod.
I'm not too worried about it not having the rubber bits, on the heavy duty engines I work on, the coolant passes to the head are just drilled holes through the gasket material with no rubber seals of any kind. They aren't the full size as the passage though. An engineer explained to me one day that is to create a coolant restriction so the coolant actually has time to absorb heat from the head before flowing out.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I've used a wire wheel on a drill before. I also use some Scotchbrite pads on an angle grinder like you're talking about. The key is to keep moving. All you're doing is trying to remove all of the old gaskets, not shine the block to a mirror finish. Sometimes I can still see the marks from the old gaskets when I install the new ones. That's fine as long as there's no actual gasket material left over.
I would agree on both of these. When the mechanical lift pump on my Blue Truck fails, I'm just going with electric and not bothering to change out the mechanical pump just to have it fail in a few months.
Measure the fire ring. The site says that these are the thickest fire rings available. Wes said that he sells Factory Turbo head gaskets for this application and they do have the thickest fire rings.
You don't need the rubber inserts. Those were only used on the 6.9 head gaskets (for whatever reason). The reason why you do need the inserts on the 6.9 gaskets is because there just isn't enough material left for the inserts to not be used. They will soon fail unless the inserts are used. Ask Laine D about that one. The 7.3 gaskets don't need them because there is enough material to hold up to the cylinder compression.
This is true. Wes said that he was experimenting with the 6.9 gaskets early on. He enlarged the holes in the inserts to allow more coolant flow. He said that he didn't see any difference while running empty, but the engine would get hot when towing heavy. Same thing. Too much coolant flow to remove enough heat.
DrCharles
Full Access Member
This piece of common "knowledge" is completely false. Unless the basic laws of thermodynamics have changed! Heat transfer is driven by temperature difference - and if there is less temp difference it is made up for by the greater volume. Time is not in the equation.
I am sure that Wes reported his findings accurately, but there has to be another explanation. Some non-ideal behavior is responsible. I think most likely the coolant distribution changed enough so that hot spots with vapor bubbles (i.e. boiling) occurred in the heads. That will definitely reduce the heat transfer compared to liquid...
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I don't believe this. Have you ever done the running vs walking through the rain test? In a light rain, over a relatively short distance, if you run, you will get wetter than if you walk. Time does play a factor.
hacked89
Full Access Member
VIN M is N/A IDI, VIN K is turbo IDI. Felpro sells the same 9047-PT gaskets for both.
hacked89
Full Access Member
Too basic interpretation of thermo IMO other factors are being disregarded. Flow rate, laminar vs turbulent flow, are factors in cooling and the synergy between fluid dynamics and thermo. This is what @IDIBRONCO is calling “time”. There’s other factors as well. There’s actually enough variables that I wouldn’t personally make sweeping statements. I could give an answer but it would depend on reviewing a specific cooling system and each variable and breaking it down. Might be fun to talk through IDI cooling but I don’t want to derail Nero’s thread.
