Haha yes forgot about the original question!
7.3 IDI is a turbo worth it?
- Thread starter faaiish
- Start date
Haha yes forgot about the original question!
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Even though I'll disagree with the masses, and not do it on stock head bolts, I'm of the opinion a idi isn't worth driving without a turbo. Let alone towing. Lol
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5akman
Registered User
Here's a copy and paste of an earlier post I made about my IDI to turbo conversion. While i think that the conversion was well worth the time/money/effort, I'd certainly recommend giving some thought to an updated diesel tow rig. While I think that my turbo IDI pulled as well as my 01 Dmax, I love the comfort of the new truck vs the old clunker!
Check into a turbo. I had an '89 with a 5 sp and towed a 22' bumper tow trailer from about sea level to 5000' and I thought I was going to have to have my 3 pre-teen boys get out and push the sucker up the hills. We got home and I ordered a Hypermax turbo kit and turned up the pump. After the install we bought a larger 25' trailer with a slide out and I could accelerate going up Hwy 101 into Willits/Ukiah which is a steep son of a gun. I don't think my current tow vehicle, a 2001 Duramax with a couple of custom tunes can pull as hard as that turbo'd 7.3 did.
Check into a turbo. I had an '89 with a 5 sp and towed a 22' bumper tow trailer from about sea level to 5000' and I thought I was going to have to have my 3 pre-teen boys get out and push the sucker up the hills. We got home and I ordered a Hypermax turbo kit and turned up the pump. After the install we bought a larger 25' trailer with a slide out and I could accelerate going up Hwy 101 into Willits/Ukiah which is a steep son of a gun. I don't think my current tow vehicle, a 2001 Duramax with a couple of custom tunes can pull as hard as that turbo'd 7.3 did.
Alwaysreadyrob
2002 7.3 POWERSTROKE 4x4
What turbo comes stock on a 94 7.3 IDI 4x4 F 250 ?
Im going to get a wicked wheel 2 and need to know for fitment .
Im going to get a wicked wheel 2 and need to know for fitment .
It *should* be a Garret/ATS 093
093 is technically a different turbo, but uses the same wheel, it is a T04E H3 turbo used in the factory turbo trucks. Russ can sell you the ww2, or you can buy it online on the R&D website, eBay or dieselsite
needlenose
Full Access Member
I have the truck in my sig. I bought it with the express purpose of swapping my 12v into it. I tried to drive the IDI for almost 1.5 years with my camper and boat(towing 2 up), but I could never get the performance some of you guys are getting. It came with a new pump. I bought brand new BBs from Russ, turned up the pump 2 flats, removed the snorkel, 9.4ish timing, new lift pump, straight piped, but I could only get about 55-60 towing on flat ground with the pedal on the floor. Every hill was a gear grabbing chore. Most I topped at 40 or less.
I swapped in my 12v for around $2k. *I had already owned a complete '92 w250 for about 13 years.* I went the lazy route and bought everything online.
Plate from Destroked
Mounts from DCS
Military 90deg exhaust from Ebay
Reused the existing ZF5
Various AN connectors from Summit for pressure line conversion
Various plumbing fittings to reuse Ford sensors.
4" exhaust from the turbo back and a 42" Donaldson muffler
Reused factory intercooler and piping.
Reused Ford a/c with a custom bracket made from Lowes .25" plate.
The only changes I made to the engine after the install was a 16cm turbine housing on the H1c for faster spool. Factory pin rotate, and 3/4 turn on the fuel screw. Still running the factory head gasket, injectors, pump, cam, etc.
It tows my 30' camper(7500 loaded) and my aluminum boat(1500) at the same time all day long at 60mph(max legal speed at 2 up). Thats flat, uphill, it doesnt matter. Just lean in on the pedal and it will hold. It will do 70, but thats fast hauling two trailers.
I sold the IDIT complete on a stand for $1k.
I swapped the 4.10s for 3.73s and it gets 20mpg unloaded and about 15mpg towing the above. The IDI never saw more than 16 unloaded and about 8+ish towing the above.
That's my swap experience. The truck isnt a hot rod and I dont care about owning some coal rolling dyno queen. I just wanted simplicity and torque. No mickey mouse return lines drooling fuel all over the engine. No oil coolers. No mickey mouse turbo. No vanishing parts. No fiddling with pumps and studs and gaskets. It just works.
I'm sure there was something wrong with my IDI, but I had a 12v sitting there staring at me. I can tell you the OBS Ford with a 12v is a fantastic combo if you can swing it. You may be broke, but you will not be disappointed. It sure beats being broke *and* disappointed.
I swapped in my 12v for around $2k. *I had already owned a complete '92 w250 for about 13 years.* I went the lazy route and bought everything online.
Plate from Destroked
Mounts from DCS
Military 90deg exhaust from Ebay
Reused the existing ZF5
Various AN connectors from Summit for pressure line conversion
Various plumbing fittings to reuse Ford sensors.
4" exhaust from the turbo back and a 42" Donaldson muffler
Reused factory intercooler and piping.
Reused Ford a/c with a custom bracket made from Lowes .25" plate.
The only changes I made to the engine after the install was a 16cm turbine housing on the H1c for faster spool. Factory pin rotate, and 3/4 turn on the fuel screw. Still running the factory head gasket, injectors, pump, cam, etc.
It tows my 30' camper(7500 loaded) and my aluminum boat(1500) at the same time all day long at 60mph(max legal speed at 2 up). Thats flat, uphill, it doesnt matter. Just lean in on the pedal and it will hold. It will do 70, but thats fast hauling two trailers.
I sold the IDIT complete on a stand for $1k.
I swapped the 4.10s for 3.73s and it gets 20mpg unloaded and about 15mpg towing the above. The IDI never saw more than 16 unloaded and about 8+ish towing the above.
That's my swap experience. The truck isnt a hot rod and I dont care about owning some coal rolling dyno queen. I just wanted simplicity and torque. No mickey mouse return lines drooling fuel all over the engine. No oil coolers. No mickey mouse turbo. No vanishing parts. No fiddling with pumps and studs and gaskets. It just works.
I'm sure there was something wrong with my IDI, but I had a 12v sitting there staring at me. I can tell you the OBS Ford with a 12v is a fantastic combo if you can swing it. You may be broke, but you will not be disappointed. It sure beats being broke *and* disappointed.
Thanks for sharing this! What would you say you have into the conversion as it sits now?I have the truck in my sig. I bought it with the express purpose of swapping my 12v into it. I tried to drive the IDI for almost 1.5 years with my camper and boat(towing 2 up), but I could never get the performance some of you guys are getting. It came with a new pump. I bought brand new BBs from Russ, turned up the pump 2 flats, removed the snorkel, 9.4ish timing, new lift pump, straight piped, but I could only get about 55-60 towing on flat ground with the pedal on the floor. Every hill was a gear grabbing chore. Most I topped at 40 or less.
I swapped in my 12v for around $2k. *I had already owned a complete '92 w250 for about 13 years.* I went the lazy route and bought everything online.
Plate from Destroked
Mounts from DCS
Military 90deg exhaust from Ebay
Reused the existing ZF5
Various AN connectors from Summit for pressure line conversion
Various plumbing fittings to reuse Ford sensors.
4" exhaust from the turbo back and a 42" Donaldson muffler
Reused factory intercooler and piping.
Reused Ford a/c with a custom bracket made from Lowes .25" plate.
The only changes I made to the engine after the install was a 16cm turbine housing on the H1c for faster spool. Factory pin rotate, and 3/4 turn on the fuel screw. Still running the factory head gasket, injectors, pump, cam, etc.
It tows my 30' camper(7500 loaded) and my aluminum boat(1500) at the same time all day long at 60mph(max legal speed at 2 up). Thats flat, uphill, it doesnt matter. Just lean in on the pedal and it will hold. It will do 70, but thats fast hauling two trailers.
I sold the IDIT complete on a stand for $1k.
I swapped the 4.10s for 3.73s and it gets 20mpg unloaded and about 15mpg towing the above. The IDI never saw more than 16 unloaded and about 8+ish towing the above.
That's my swap experience. The truck isnt a hot rod and I dont care about owning some coal rolling dyno queen. I just wanted simplicity and torque. No mickey mouse return lines drooling fuel all over the engine. No oil coolers. No mickey mouse turbo. No vanishing parts. No fiddling with pumps and studs and gaskets. It just works.
I'm sure there was something wrong with my IDI, but I had a 12v sitting there staring at me. I can tell you the OBS Ford with a 12v is a fantastic combo if you can swing it. You may be broke, but you will not be disappointed. It sure beats being broke *and* disappointed.
raydav
Full Access Member
I bought an 84 E350/460 in 1995. In 2005 I got an 89 E350 for it's IDI. In 2013 I added a turbo. The turbo changed the world. The black soot was gone. Mileage with the 460 was 10, with the IDI it is 15. The turbo did not change the mileage. The van weighs 9K#. It does a lot of cross country. The trans is an E4OD.
I also have a 2001 E350 7.3L PSD. So, same size, I figured maybe Ford knew what they were doing, and got a turbo for a 2001 PSD. A rebuilt unit out-the-door was $500. The rest was just welding a bunch of tubing. The shop that did the turbo makes bonnets to fit. There is very little room for an inter cooler. I put a temp gauge just before the bonnet, and decided a cooler would not be worth the effort.
I recently wore out the turbo. The same shop rebuilt it with a $200 wheel for $625. You don't need thousands for dollars for a turbo.
But a year ago the head gaskets went. I had a top end oil leak that ran oil down the head gasket and blew small bubbles. I bought a 94 reman turbo IDI. It came ready to run but I did not have a turbo flex plate. So I pulled the rotating assembly and had it balanced to match the non turbo flex plate. I resembled it with studs. I also did two new gas engines this last year with studs. Gas studs I can get for $100 or less. The only studs I found for an IDI are ARP at $400.
I also have a 2001 E350 7.3L PSD. So, same size, I figured maybe Ford knew what they were doing, and got a turbo for a 2001 PSD. A rebuilt unit out-the-door was $500. The rest was just welding a bunch of tubing. The shop that did the turbo makes bonnets to fit. There is very little room for an inter cooler. I put a temp gauge just before the bonnet, and decided a cooler would not be worth the effort.
I recently wore out the turbo. The same shop rebuilt it with a $200 wheel for $625. You don't need thousands for dollars for a turbo.
But a year ago the head gaskets went. I had a top end oil leak that ran oil down the head gasket and blew small bubbles. I bought a 94 reman turbo IDI. It came ready to run but I did not have a turbo flex plate. So I pulled the rotating assembly and had it balanced to match the non turbo flex plate. I resembled it with studs. I also did two new gas engines this last year with studs. Gas studs I can get for $100 or less. The only studs I found for an IDI are ARP at $400.
needlenose
Full Access Member
That's all I did that was swap related. I have since put a set of gauges in it(pyro/water/boost). I should have done it before I started turning up the fuel in the IDI. I had it really easy since I had a complete running donor already. I kept the donor for about 6 months after I had it completed and picked a few little odds and ends off it before I sold it for $500 to some guy from Iowa. Also sold the drivetrain as a auto-manual conversion kit and the computer as well. Between those and the IDI sale, the swap was paid for and then some. In fact the chassis sale purchased all my gauges.
I just drive it now. It's been together for about 2 years already. I haven't changed a thing.
Just an update, I put the new injectors and pump on and it gave me a night and day difference in power. I guess the 30 year old pump and injectors were plain worn out. I did the alternator upgrade and put an electric lift pump and it starts and runs like a top. Had to try it out pulling the mountains of WVa without a turbo only hauling a 3500lb. load. It did ok until I got to Sandstone mountain on I64. It is an 8 mile long 8% grade, I could only get 45 out of her all the way up. I knew after about 4 miles I was going to have to turbo it. Issue is I got to the other side and the front pump seal blew on the E40D. Since it is the original trans that has never been opened or updated (this thing still has the factory muffler) I guess it is a remain first then a turbo second. Since I have the trans out, thought about pulling the motor and doing the head gaskets and oil cooler and bending the firewall in preparation for the turbo. Anything else you guys suggest doing if I am going into it this deep.
Macrobb
Full Access Member
Do front and rear main seals, you'll be close anyway. Probably re-seal the oil pan as well.
If it’s still stock, which it sounds like, the factory cooler for the E4OD is way undersized! I would add an additional aftermarket cooler. I would look at replacing the front pump seal with the better seal now available. They are known for leaking when hot, then will seal back up. Might be a “cheap” fix with a few hours of time, instead of a thousands of dollars rebuild.....
Keep an E4OD cool, and the fluid clean and they will stay happy.
Keep an E4OD cool, and the fluid clean and they will stay happy.
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