DrCharles
Full Access Member
I admired the 2" of snow sitting on it, then went to the shop where I made the missing plate that holds the CDR grommet to the (turbo) valve cover. My toes are unpleasantly thawing out!
So what did you do with your truck today?
- Thread starter GOOSE
- Start date
david85
Full Access Member
I pulled mine out of the garage to work on the wife’s car. That’s about as much snow action as she’s gonna see if I can help it.
Good plan on the snow bit. I under-oiled my truck a few weeks ago with fluid film. Used about half a gallon.
BTW, I didn't see that bed cover before. Any info you can share? I've been looking for a fiberglass bed cover or cab height canopy, but they are proving hard to find.
How do you like the soft cover?
I like it pretty well. It’s a trifold. I had a full tilt. I thought it would be a bit cumbersome on 8’ beds.
Freedom 52515 Tri-Fold Truck Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ATYRC4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It’s actually made by extang. Seems decent.
Freedom 52515 Tri-Fold Truck Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ATYRC4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It’s actually made by extang. Seems decent.
david85
Full Access Member
No drilling required. That's problem #1 solved. Thanks!
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Can't blame you there.That’s about as much snow action as she’s gonna see if I can help it.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I didn't do much to the truck itself except to top off the tank with fuel. I was mostly rounding up tools and other things to take along on the big to visit Thewespaul in a few days. I may even stop in and see my cousin in San Antonio if she asks nicely.
Driving into work and she died on the side of the road. I don't know if my lines gelled up or what happened. Finally got it started again on my last ounce of battery juice. The worst part is I have 3/4 of a tank and had already gone about 7 miles after letting it idle for 10min after being plugged in all night.
Between yesterday and today it's not a great way to start a week!!
EDIT: Yes I was running anti-gel. It certainly seems like it was sucking air.
Between yesterday and today it's not a great way to start a week!!
EDIT: Yes I was running anti-gel. It certainly seems like it was sucking air.
DrCharles
Full Access Member
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Finished the turbo CDR plate (welded a 1" hose barb to it, and repainted). Naturally, today I found one on ebay. Listed as a "turbo CDR nipple". 
Bought that too as a backup for my homemade version.
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Oledirtypearl86
Full Access Member
Today I had the day off so I got to sleep in a few hours (worked a 21 hr shift yesterday) but got up at 6 and used the old Ford for a anchor to flip a round bail to feed the horse then started it and let it run to warm up to check the water pump pulled the front of it in the garage enough to put a good used on It and topped the coolant off an she is good for another 100k
My other half has been asking for an "Oh ****" grab handle up there too. Lots of other things to do first, but it's on the list
I figured since I've been hearing the complaint since 1990 it was probably time to do something about it.
DrCharles
Full Access Member
Since today (and tomorrow) are forecast to be 50F, I finally started on the turbo installation! 
The whole afternoon was consumed in prep work... remove the GP controller and oil pressure "sender", redo the fuel return line between banks to go around the front of the intake hat away from the hot side of the turbo, take the entire engine wiring harness off and apart, use the existing glow plug harnesses from both banks to make front-routed connections to the new GPC location above the right valve cover, remove the NA left valve cover and install the turbo cover. And so on!
I also discovered my CDR valve is completely open with no resistance in both directions, so time to buy one of those too.
Tomorrow I have a friend coming over to help with the "plumbing". That should be the easy part after all this preparation...
Edit: after reading some CDR valve threads, maybe it's not bad after all. I may just put it in and do the manometer test once everything else is together. It's easy enough to change on the turbo setup.
The whole afternoon was consumed in prep work... remove the GP controller and oil pressure "sender", redo the fuel return line between banks to go around the front of the intake hat away from the hot side of the turbo, take the entire engine wiring harness off and apart, use the existing glow plug harnesses from both banks to make front-routed connections to the new GPC location above the right valve cover, remove the NA left valve cover and install the turbo cover. And so on!
I also discovered my CDR valve is completely open with no resistance in both directions, so time to buy one of those too.
Tomorrow I have a friend coming over to help with the "plumbing". That should be the easy part after all this preparation...
Edit: after reading some CDR valve threads, maybe it's not bad after all. I may just put it in and do the manometer test once everything else is together. It's easy enough to change on the turbo setup.
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square1
Registered User
Tested the winch, it passed. The log was frozen in the pile so the winch pulled my truck across the snow until the log finally broke loose .
You must be registered for see images attach
Installed a no bowl fuel filter order 3 new tires one I just bought says it's a trailer tire even on the rubber but was a Cooper brand total cost with family discount was $145 other three tires with same discount is $315 not bad.
Also pulled a 1977 toyota military Land cruiser was interesting with a tow strap n mud from this week's snow
Also pulled a 1977 toyota military Land cruiser was interesting with a tow strap n mud from this week's snow
DrCharles
Full Access Member
Today I got the turbo installed. It took all afternoon, and that's with a helper.
This morning I finished modifying the wiring harness to run at the front of the engine instead of a U behind it. Disassembling the exhaust was simple - the old Y-pipe came right off, and I cut the 3" tailpipe with a sawzall about a foot back.
Mounting the turbo wasn't easy... maybe it would be, on a truck with a couple of inches body lift! But the complete turbo assembly just would NOT go past the firewall - I had to dismount the up-pipe. From there it wasn't too bad. In fact my helper noticed I'd pinched the O-ring in the oil drain pedestal and there would have been a huge leak there. So we figured it had to come off again for a reason
I bent the body seam over from underneath with vise-grips, then used a 1x2 bar and a 4# hammer to fold it over. Still not quite enough room for the flange on the Banks downpipe. A little more persuasion with a porta-power "duckbill" against the bellhousing (gently so as not to crack the ZF5!) and I could get it in... From there it took both of us to get the band clamp on the downpipe but it's on.
A couple of notes: The grommet that came with the left turbo valve cover was way too big for the CDR to plug directly into it. However, a NA valley pan grommet with the snout cut down to about 1" is a perfect fit in the cover and the CDR too.
Getting the threads started on the factory oil line is "interesting" with new olives, which also were a pain to shove into the fittings. I lubed the olives and tapped them in with a small plastic-faced hammer. Then I could assemble the oil line.
There's a stud in the right rear intake bolt (for the body ground strap). I don't think it would have cleared the downpipe so I swapped it with another intake bolt.
Speaking of studs, the ones in the right exhaust manifold stayed in place and did not interfere with installation of the wye casting. I tried to use the bolts from the kit to secure the crossover pipe but ran into an excessively tight thread fit even after running a thread chaser. (Studs and bolts don't have exactly the same thread cut). So I just put a couple of 7/16" studs in the wye, then bolted up the crossover.
Now, just a few more odds & ends (rig up a piece of flex pipe so I can get to the exhaust shop, mount the GPC when the bracket gets here, likewise the CDR, hook up the boost gauge to the hat, and install the pyro probe if I can find the ^&@#% compression fitting!! Don't know where I put it... in a safe place no doubt.
This morning I finished modifying the wiring harness to run at the front of the engine instead of a U behind it. Disassembling the exhaust was simple - the old Y-pipe came right off, and I cut the 3" tailpipe with a sawzall about a foot back.
Mounting the turbo wasn't easy... maybe it would be, on a truck with a couple of inches body lift! But the complete turbo assembly just would NOT go past the firewall - I had to dismount the up-pipe. From there it wasn't too bad. In fact my helper noticed I'd pinched the O-ring in the oil drain pedestal and there would have been a huge leak there. So we figured it had to come off again for a reason
I bent the body seam over from underneath with vise-grips, then used a 1x2 bar and a 4# hammer to fold it over. Still not quite enough room for the flange on the Banks downpipe. A little more persuasion with a porta-power "duckbill" against the bellhousing (gently so as not to crack the ZF5!) and I could get it in... From there it took both of us to get the band clamp on the downpipe but it's on.
A couple of notes: The grommet that came with the left turbo valve cover was way too big for the CDR to plug directly into it. However, a NA valley pan grommet with the snout cut down to about 1" is a perfect fit in the cover and the CDR too.
Getting the threads started on the factory oil line is "interesting" with new olives, which also were a pain to shove into the fittings. I lubed the olives and tapped them in with a small plastic-faced hammer. Then I could assemble the oil line.
There's a stud in the right rear intake bolt (for the body ground strap). I don't think it would have cleared the downpipe so I swapped it with another intake bolt.
Speaking of studs, the ones in the right exhaust manifold stayed in place and did not interfere with installation of the wye casting. I tried to use the bolts from the kit to secure the crossover pipe but ran into an excessively tight thread fit even after running a thread chaser. (Studs and bolts don't have exactly the same thread cut). So I just put a couple of 7/16" studs in the wye, then bolted up the crossover.
Now, just a few more odds & ends (rig up a piece of flex pipe so I can get to the exhaust shop, mount the GPC when the bracket gets here, likewise the CDR, hook up the boost gauge to the hat, and install the pyro probe if I can find the ^&@#% compression fitting!! Don't know where I put it... in a safe place no doubt.
