Turboing a n/a 7.3idi

Rcn1978

Registered User
Joined
Apr 1, 2018
Posts
31
Reaction score
3
Location
Oklahoma
So I want to turbo my 92 idi but I don't want to spend a ton of money. So I was wondering what is my best option... finding a stock donor 7.3 idi turbo truck and using the the turbo parts from that or buying a remanufactured turbo and diy/custom Fab the piping?.....I am somewhat of a welder so I'm confident that with some knowledgeable input I could Fab the the piping.....and my other question is for the turbo oil dump line.....if the line has to be installed where the oil pressure sensor is on my truck where do I relocate the sensor?..or is there a better place for the oil dump line to be located?.... Next question... Where is the best place to get the oil supply for the turbo?


Here are some pictures of my truck[emoji16]
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach


Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
 

nostrokes

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2017
Posts
517
Reaction score
312
Location
Colorado
Best bet would be to find a donor. Though it's still not going to be cheap depending on what shape it's in.

You cannot dump oil down into the gauge pressure sender, it is a pressured oil feed. That gets plugged with a pipe plug and the sender relocated. The oil dump on my banks kit goes into the vally pan where the CDR was. I took the advice from lots of posts here and punched a few holes in the baffle in the vally pan for better drain back.

The oil feed line for my turbo is directly off the oil pump using a 90* fitting and a stainless steel flexible line up to the turbo.

Not sure if all turbos are set up like mine but they will be close to it. Mine is a banks sidewinder non waste gated. It was already on the truck when I bought it, but I did find and download the installation from banks so I had reference.
 

tbrumm

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2012
Posts
1,224
Reaction score
187
Location
Richland Center, WI
I am about to do this very thing - install a turbo kit on my 1994 N/A 7.3. I bought factory turbo motor with the complete turbo setup, and had the turbo rebuilt. The rest of the parts were in good shape. When all is said and done, I will probably have about $1500 into it, but the turbo itself is better than new after the rebuild by Russ @typ4. Russ sells factory ATS turbo kits for these trucks, so you might to contact him and see what a kit would cost.
 

Macrobb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Posts
2,380
Reaction score
1,234
Location
North Idaho
And if you are buying new(vs used/donor), check out R&D idi performance. They are making new kits and parts.

Used wise, check out car-part.com. Search for turbos for these truck years and you'll often find some in various wrecking yards.
 

kent01

Registered User
Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Posts
37
Reaction score
7
Location
US
I'd go with used piping and hardware,reman or new turbo.
Good luck.
 
Last edited:

genscripter

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Posts
584
Reaction score
358
Location
Inglewood, CA
Anyone out there want to buy my 88 F250:7.3 idi Na.? It's a 5 speed
Has 2 wd.210 K. On it. Very good shape. Runs good,lots of preventive maintenance done.
$3400. Obo. Kent.
702 508 1266. Text or call.for pics.
You must be registered for see images attach


Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk



Since you hijacked the thread with your unsolicited post, I'm going to give you some unsolicited advice. First, don't hijack someone else's post. Second, that truck is maybe worth $1800 at best. It's a non-turbo, 2wd, 2-door, with almost a quarter million miles.
 

genscripter

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Posts
584
Reaction score
358
Location
Inglewood, CA
You cannot dump oil down into the gauge pressure sender, it is a pressured oil feed. That gets plugged with a pipe plug and the sender relocated. The oil dump on my banks kit goes into the vally pan where the CDR was. I took the advice from lots of posts here and punched a few holes in the baffle in the vally pan for better drain back.




Nostrokes advice is spot on. Use the valley pan hole to drain back turbo oil. Here's a write up about how I punctured my valley pan baffles to increase flow, as Hypermax insisted in their manual.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

kent01

Registered User
Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Posts
37
Reaction score
7
Location
US
Since you hijacked the thread with your unsolicited post, I'm going to give you some unsolicited advice. First, don't hijack someone else's post. Second, that truck is maybe worth $1800 at best. It's a non-turbo, 2wd, 2-door, with almost a quarter million miles.
Didn't realize I was on somebodies post. Thx for your overrated opinion.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 

typ4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Posts
9,092
Reaction score
1,372
Location
Newberg,OR
I can sell you a complete kit, or a reman turbo with a pedestal and oil feed line and you can fab from there.
 

Rcn1978

Registered User
Joined
Apr 1, 2018
Posts
31
Reaction score
3
Location
Oklahoma
I can sell you a complete kit, or a reman turbo with a pedestal and oil feed line and you can fab from there.
How much would the complete kit cost...and how much is the reman with the oil lines

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
 

typ4

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2005
Posts
9,092
Reaction score
1,372
Location
Newberg,OR
1850.00 shipped complete. shipping is 200 ish
750.00 turbo with pedestal and oil line.
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,234
Reaction score
10,925
Location
edmond, ks
Another option is that if you can find a complete truck in decent shape with a turbo, you could take all of the turbo parts for your truck and then resell the other one as a N/A truck to get back some of your cost. As for the oil pressure sender, it depends which turbo you get. The Factory Turbo and probably the ATS 093 as well (can't remember) have the oil sender mounted on top of the turbo. You can still have the sender in the factory location and use that as your oil feed. Just get a brass "T" to put on top of the 3/4" hex part. That way you'll have oil ports for both. The only thing wrong with this spot is that it's a pain to get to with a turbo installed. If you do the installing before the turbo goes on, then it will be easier to do.
 

Macrobb

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2016
Posts
2,380
Reaction score
1,234
Location
North Idaho
The reason most turbos(all the kits I've seen so far) have the sender after the turbo(mounted on top) is that if anything fails and you lose oil pressure to the turbo, you know it. No chance of starving the turbo without knowing it.
That being said, you only want a single sender mounted to the top of the turbo. Any more(say for an aftermarket gage) and you should use a flexible line from the turbo port to the side of the engine where your senders are - too much weight up top can crack fittings at the turbo or on your tee(due to vibration).
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,217
Posts
1,128,475
Members
24,044
Latest member
Mnlx
Top