Project: The New CDD Shop Truck

Thewespaul

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First oil change done, fixed the coolant leak, replaced the vacuum pump with a good used one i had on the shelf, replaced those annoying 10mm bolts with studs as they should have been from the factory. Much easier to remove the pump now. Got the timing meter on it and set the timing. Bumped the fuel pressure up from 5 psi to 9 psi.

Installed my turbonetics boost controller to give me some adjustability instead of just an unplugged wastegate. Brought the boost down to 21 psi to help the turbo last, it was definitely not making any more power at 27 than it is as 21, especially being non intercooled. Much more low end after these adjustments.

I’m pretty happy with this pump, no smoke past 2300 rpm and just a haze down low, I think it could use a bit more fuel on the bottom end to help it get the turbo spooled faster, but it’s already a live wire. I’m uploading some videos now of how quickly it builds boost
 

Thewespaul

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Short video showing how responsive it is, builds boost very quickly. Working on some longer videos but fighting my slow internet

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Trevtron

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Glad to see it all come together, how does it handle driving down the road?
 

Thewespaul

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Glad to see it all come together, how does it handle driving down the road?
Goes really well, heres a clip going through 4th and a bit of 5th gear.
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Ive got new headlights and tailights that should be here friday, then the front clip and hood will go back on. Need to replace the steering before I start adding more power, maybe even some new rear tires. Going to build some traction bars as well, it really needs it.
 

Thewespaul

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Well I’ve been just driving the truck lately. Got all the lights replaced and most the front clip back on minus the air dam and hood.
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Lots of fun to drive, 20 psi, max 1000* and doesnt burn a drop of oil but needs a few things addressed. Return lines and oil drain are leaking. Not a big deal but annoying enough to tear into it tonight

Pulled the turbo off and did return lines. Easy with the turbo out of the way, replaced the o ring for the oil drain and then went to reinstall the whole assembly without touching the crossover or Y pipe. Sometimes you can get lucky and it will go in the way it is, but no dice here. Pulled the crossover and y pipe off and dropped the turbo into place, got it bolted in loosely, then bolted the y pipe in, then tightened up the back oil drain bolts and finally the intake hat bolt. Well on that last bolt I heard a crack then no more tighten... time to pull everything back off and replace the intake manifold. Didn’t seem that tight when it popped but it is almost midnight so my elbow torque calibration is probably off, always something ain’t it?
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frankenwrench

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:shocked: I've never seen that one before! And that intake was beautiful on that beautiful engine. That really sucks man. But that build is really looking good! Feel as though I should come your way as soon as I get my truck going and take some notes!
 

saburai

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Goes really well, heres a clip going through 4th and a bit of 5th gear.
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Ive got new headlights and tailights that should be here friday, then the front clip and hood will go back on. Need to replace the steering before I start adding more power, maybe even some new rear tires. Going to build some traction bars as well, it really needs it.
Sounds great! I can't make it out on my tiny little phone screen... what pillar pod is that and what gauges are you running? The dynatune is Boost?
 

Thewespaul

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I’ve got a dozen or so sitting around, but I think I’m gonna make this one work. Gonna have some coffee and think up a fix.

Sounds great! I can't make it out on my tiny little phone screen... what pillar pod is that and what gauges are you running? The dynatune is Boost?

Yep the digital gauge is reading boost pressure, it’s a leftover nitrous bottle pressure gauge that I was using for running juice on the last engine setup, replaced the sendor and it’s reading boost now. I’ve got a proper boost gauge to go in when I get a chance
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Thewespaul

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F’in mint! Got everything back together, no more leaks so far. The plate may be a restriction but it will work for the time being, I’ll change the intake out when I swap the bigger pump on with the turbo upgrade.
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Thewespaul

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Alright so been thinking about what I want to upgrade and in what order... Pretty much decided to do a bolt on turbo upgrade, then upgrade the fuel, then add the compound setup, but now it looks like plans may be changing. Ive spoken with a few members in private on this project but Ive been working on mating a 3208 CAT injection pump to our idi timing gear. These pumps are fully mechanical inline pumps, with the same firing order as our engines, and has the same drive rotation ratio as our db2s. This has been a side project thats been on the back burner for years because I know its going to be expensive, but I recently had a running 3208 pump fall in my lap for the right price, currently bidding on it so we will see soon if this becomes the new direction with this build.

Some pictures for an idea of the size of the pump.
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To list a few of the challenges I see so far, the pump will not fit with the stock intake manifold, it will need a rear mounting bracket to support the weight of the pump and to supply a return for lubrication, the timing gear will need to be machined to be tapered fit, the timing case will need to be custom made, or an intermediate adapter plate made from aluminum to mount up to the stock timing case, and injection lines will have to be custom but other than that it bolts on.

Time will tell, but fingers crossed I can win this pump and I can take it and a spare engine to NCC Fab here in San Antonio, Ive talked to the guys there and they seem pretty excited to help out with this project, they will get the pump mounted to the engine and mated solidly to the gear, and I will take it from there.

Lots of work but I think an inline pump would be the game changer with these idis because you have so much more adjustability with your fueling, and you can make tripple the fuel with them than a db2/db4 hybrid at the same cost, not to mention these pumps are extremely robust and dont need a rebuild every 100-150k miles, but usually outlive the lifespans of the engines they were built for.
 

Thewespaul

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What would a typical price be for a pump like that? Like just a rebuilt one?
Definitely the way to go though.

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If you have a good core that hasn’t been run on rust and water for years and it just needs a basic rebuild and setting up on the test bench it would be around $850. And just turning some screws it can easily support 350ccs @3500 rpms stock. Spend the extra $200 on some internal upgrades and you get another 200ccs. You can find cores for 300-500 depending on how long you wait for a deal to come up.
 

79jasper

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I didn't know it was something you had to have a core for.
Wasn't sure if you could just buy one or not, without looking. Lol

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