P9106 Getting AC...part list?

Greg5OH

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Alright so everything makes sense. Since i only got 2 cans in vs the required 2.5, i would be low.
Woth compressor off i have 70/70 like i said.

So ill get some more rridgerant..i should vacuum the whole system again, evacuate the current refridge, and then recharge u der vacuum ya?
 

MTKirk

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I don't care what they say you have to pull a vacuum on the system. Air is a non condensable gas and will cause issues if left in the system.

That's what I thought, but, I was wrong. Tried it both ways and got better cooling numbers at lower pressures filling the system at atmospheric pressure. I just couldn't accept what the Enviro-safe people were telling me, it didn't make any sense. The technical guy urged me to leave the system open for a day or two, like he WANTED some water vapor in the system. I compromise and leave it open for an hour or two before I fill, but then I am using PAG oil, I don't want it to have to much water to mix with. Over 3 years on my first enviro-safe vehicle and no problems.
 

Greg5OH

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Strange indeed.
so the boiling i have going on, think thats just from a low charge (comp runs a looong time) or because there is air in the system i introduced when i didnt purge the line from one can?
But then again.. There would be air in there if the system is open...
 

MTKirk

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Alright so everything makes sense. Since i only got 2 cans in vs the required 2.5, i would be low.
Woth compressor off i have 70/70 like i said.

So ill get some more rridgerant..i should vacuum the whole system again, evacuate the current refridge, and then recharge u der vacuum ya?

I think you should call enviro-safe and talk it over with their tech-support guy.
 

CDX825

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That's what I thought, but, I was wrong. Tried it both ways and got better cooling numbers at lower pressures filling the system at atmospheric pressure. I just couldn't accept what the Enviro-safe people were telling me, it didn't make any sense. The technical guy urged me to leave the system open for a day or two, like he WANTED some water vapor in the system. I compromise and leave it open for an hour or two before I fill, but then I am using PAG oil, I don't want it to have to much water to mix with. Over 3 years on my first enviro-safe vehicle and no problems.

The fact they are selling a mixture of propane and butane in a can then telling people not to pull a vacuum on the system blows my mind. Hot compressed flammable gas plus air= boom:shocked:
 

MTKirk

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Before using hydrocarbon refrigerants in automobiles, I did many hours of research on the subject. I found that during the millions of hours of use of enviro-safe, red tek, even conventional butane and propane, there has not been a single documented case of property loss or personal injury incurred from its use in an automobile.

Storing and delivering these products is obviously dangerous, and there have been accidents at that phase of the product cycle, but personally I am much more concerned about the two propane tanks on my RV than the case of 12oz cans of enviro-safe in my shop.

I also did extensive research into filling hydrocarbon systems at atmospheric pressure as opposed to a vacuum. I could find no case of anyone suffering ill effects from it, and several cases of individuals obtaining better performance from atmospheric pressure filling.

http://www.fam-bjork.se/citroen/AC/external/cfca95.pdf
 
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Greg5OH

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Ok so noticed the shrader valve onthe high side has a tiny leak, id liketo replace it, but there are somanu to choose from!
Anyone know the exact valve core we need for the r12 systems?
 

Greg5OH

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Eh, im at 35 lbs in the system, gunna pull the core and take it to the store. Wasted $30 on freon but, live and learn..
Still got a can of oil charge and stop leak left over at least
 

HS108

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Well if it was leaking, it was change it now or later really. You were gonna slowly loose the refrigerant anyways

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
 

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