Rust Inhibitors. Fancy name for either self etching primer and paint or just spray o

[Cruiseomatic]

Thread over at FTE. Not getting anything. My '89 has the same problem under the drip rail.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...mer-and-paint-or-just-spray-on-bed-liner.html

 

[laserjock]

With rust, you can't recall stop it, you can only slow it down. The more you remove and the better you seal it up, the longer it will last.

Can't speak to how good my process is yet, but I have been removing what I can, treating with ospho or POR metal ready then priming and painting. I've primed and painted the frame with enamel and the underside of the cab with por15. I'm going to epoxy prime everything then paint the exterior. Not sure what else you can do. In salt states, the best you can do is prolong the battle. You will eventually loose the war if you drive them at all.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Best cure for cancer this bad is to cut out all the bad and weld in new. Is there patch panels for the areas I need? I have a few other spots but they're not nearly as bad. What is reasonable to pay for a quality repair? I'm no body man and don't want to practice on these trucks. How would I use ospho?

 

[KZF250]

LMC Truck has panels...made in China so probably not an exact fit always.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/search.aspx?searchTerms=body%20panels

 

[laserjock]

I don't remember seeing patch panels for the drip rail . Ospho is really only useful for surface rust. It's really IMHO just a cleanup for what you cant mechanically remove. Like deep pits that you'd grind through the panel to get rid of.

You can check LMC and the like but I think you will probably have to custom make those parts. If you don't feel comfortable, then having it done is probably the best option.

 

[IDIoit]

too bad, i just scrapped a rust free roof....

if you dont want to "practice" on this truck, your best option is to open your wallet and shell out the clams.
if youre good with a welder, go for it....

worst you can do is screw it up, which leaves you at where youre at right now.

one of the most stated statements in my area is ...
"beat to fit, paint to hide"

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Lol. I honestly don't mind paying a good body man to fix these trucks. If it was a daily beater then I'd go for it. I've been looking at rust converters and there is a TON of them. Not sure of a good one that actually converts not just "covers" the rust to "stop" it....What happened to naval jelly? I remember the stuff when my dad used it when I was a kid and hes 87 now. I have 4 major problem areas, Front right cab corner above highbeam switch, rear cab wall bottom, and right drip rail towards front, and at the curve between horizontal and vertical cab supports( Behind left kick panel under hood pull.) The rest is surface. I can't do much with the '89 on the drip rail but I did manage to get some chunks off but my question is, If a chunk of rust were to touch "clean" steel in between the roof skins, would it cause them to begin rotting? not VERY familiar with rust as I probably should be. Don't have alot of run ins with it. Worst I ever had was surface on the '89 chassis which is still surface but now that my other 2 spots are spreading, Need to address it as well. Why can't my beater chebby have all this rust instead of my trucks.....It just never stops. Found MORE holes on the '87. Here are some pics.....This is getting a little depressing.

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[laserjock]

It's always worse than you think. Naval jelly is a phosphoric acid product. Same deal with it. You have to get down to the point of just some surface pitting for it to do any good. You also have to make sure the top coat is compatible with the acid treatment. For example, some epoxy primers don't like the acid treatments.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

On the drip rails, how could I kill the rust without neutralizer being left in the space between panels? I was thinking of doing lead body filler once they're done. Still think a body shop should do it...There's one more place getting bad under the rail above the door I didn't get a picture of. And the bottom of the windshield, and under the cowl. I have some pictures on the FTE thread as well.

 

[dunk]

I tend to use whatever rust converter I find locally off the shelf, which is usually Duplicolor rust fix. Sometimes it does not seem to work well, leaving a light yellow rusty sheen instead of turning any remains of rust black and ready for paint. When it doesn't work well I sand/blast/wire wheel back to bare metal, reapply or prep as needed. Would like to find a better product, as every single project on anything I do involves a tremendous amount of time getting whatever is accessible while <thing> is apart to bare metal and adequately prepped/painted to fight rust.

I hate the northeast, it's damn cold and everything rusts. Most of my time on any given project is rust related. Be it removing fasteners, removing rust, or the prep/paint process to keep rust at bay.

 

[fsmyth]

Nobody here (at least as far as I have seen) has mentioned fiberglass.
Wonderful product. Back when I had the problem (long ago; I bought some vehicles from a
northern state), I used it to patch the ones that I could not get panels or replacements for.
Grind ALL the rust off, then apply. Easy to learn. Easy to do.
One truck, an old Dodge, even had most of it's floorboard replaced. Used some scraps to fill
in the gaps, mesh over that, and fiberglass'd over that. Smooth, even finish.
Even played around with tinting it. Got pretty close on some.
You can work it like bondo, but the window is very narrow
One nice thing about it, is that you can do it in layers.
And none of them have rusted yet.......

 

[Cruiseomatic]

What I'm going to do is cut out what I can and replace it. The only problem area I have is the cab corner where the e-brake punches through the floor. Its VERY tight in that area and the cab and cab mount are affected. Not sure how or what I'm going to do about the rest of the areas yet. Been so busy lately. But, I want to stop what I can first. I thought about lead, fiberglass, and last resort, mud. However, From experience, its better to do it right the first time and cry once than do it a bunch of times over and cry alot more often. What is something I can spray on say the drip rail area and leave it and not worry? If it didn't have a double skin that'd be one thing, But they don't. I also have an issue under the cowl.

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What should my plan of attack be for this? It's all the way across the cowl. I'm looking for all the advice I can get on all these rust issues. I found out how the cab corner got its start. Ford put so much insulation in the engine area and over the fender whells between it and the cab, The water got trapped there. Why did they use SO MUCH insulation? Heat? Sound deadening? Use more under the carpet instead of the paper thin crap. 4 hours and a shop vac cured that. Planning on ripping it ALL out now. If I can at least do the prep work, that'll help me on the body shop bill. I don't do things half ass. Never have and don't plan on starting. Thanks.

 

[pafixitman]

one of the most stated statements in my area is ...
"beat to fit, paint to hide"

In home improvement we say "try your best, paint and caulk the rest"

 

[IDIoit]

as we said on deployment in the USN construction battalion...

F'IT, YOU CANT SEE IT FROM HOMEPORT

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Heres a video I did on the areas.
https://youtu.be/WI5DTfnWzI8