underbody/frame coating recommendations

[lotzagoodstuff]

Resurrecting this thread. I used one can of fluid film on the front frame section on my truck. I think it stuck pretty well, I can see the wax/stays where you put it advantage, but I wasn't crazy about the coverage and I felt like it would have taken 5 cans to do what I wanted to do on my truck. I remembered back on my original stint back in the midwest, a really good trans builder and general mechanic used to spray all his cars with straight bar and chain oil out of an undercoating gun at 120 psi. I just happened to have a gallon of bar and chain oil, and it is as clingy and stringy as I remember it was 30ish years ago. It took less than 1/2 a gallon of bar and chain oil, and if you can get the air pressure consistently over 100 psi the coverage is really good, and I think it creeps pretty well too. The only down side is that the bar and chain oil does drip more if you over apply it versus fluid film. I don't drive my truck much in the snow, but I'm going to take a look in the spring and compare areas where I applied each product. Stay tuned.

 

[CDX825]

Resurrecting this thread. I used one can of fluid film on the front frame section on my truck. I think it stuck pretty well, I can see the wax/stays where you put it advantage, but I wasn't crazy about the coverage and I felt like it would have taken 5 cans to do what I wanted to do on my truck. I remembered back on my original stint back in the midwest, a really good trans builder and general mechanic used to spray all his cars with straight bar and chain oil out of an undercoating gun at 120 psi. I just happened to have a gallon of bar and chain oil, and it is as clingy and stringy as I remember it was 30ish years ago. It took less than 1/2 a gallon of bar and chain oil, and if you can get the air pressure consistently over 100 psi the coverage is really good, and I think it creeps pretty well too. The only down side is that the bar and chain oil does drip more if you over apply it versus fluid film. I don't drive my truck much in the snow, but I'm going to take a look in the spring and compare areas where I applied each product. Stay tuned.

Ive never been pleased with the way fluid film aerosol applies. Using the bulk product from a spray gun designed for it works much better. But as I mentioned in my previous post wool wax is a step above fluid film. I actually used to mix bar and chain oil with my fluid film before spraying it. Figured the tackiness of the bar oil would help the fluid film last longer.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Ive never been pleased with the way fluid film aerosol applies. Using the bulk product from a spray gun designed for it works much better. But as I mentioned in my previous post wool wax is a step above fluid film. I actually used to mix bar and chain oil with my fluid film before spraying it. Figured the tackiness of the bar oil would help the fluid film last longer.

After a couple of days to observe, I can tell you that the bar and chain oil definitely has a tendency to drip if overapplied just a bit. I think you've got the perfect recipe with the wool wax/bar n chain oil mixture. Now you just have to find a couple of friends to split the 5 gallon bucket of woolwax with. It looks like woolwax is pretty spendy by the quart/gallon, but the 5 gallon pails are more more competitively priced per gallon.

Where and in what quantity are you buying your woolwax?

 

[FrozenMerc]

For rubberized undercoating, I am a fan of 3M Body Schutz. Apply it with their gun, and it goes on really nicely. The down side is it is the easiest and best to apply on a frame-off type situation over freshly sand blasted metal.

I did the underside of my Mercury wagon, and it has held up really will over the past 8 years or so.

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[CDX825]

After a couple of days to observe, I can tell you that the bar and chain oil definitely has a tendency to drip if overapplied just a bit. I think you've got the perfect recipe with the wool wax/bar n chain oil mixture. Now you just have to find a couple of friends to split the 5 gallon bucket of woolwax with. It looks like woolwax is pretty spendy by the quart/gallon, but the 5 gallon pails are more more competitively priced per gallon.

Where and in what quantity are you buying your woolwax?

https://www.kellsportproducts.com/

I buy it by the 5 gallon bucket. I have their pro spray guns setup as well and have used it for years.

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

When I had my bed off a month ago, I wire wheeled the frame and sprayed it with rust reformer, then 24 hours later a couple coats of rustoleum farm and implement paint. I’ll resurrect this thread again in the spring to let you guys know how it looks after a salty Ohio winter.

 

[Bart F-350]

I wire wheeled the frame

You are aware that with doing that, you only smear a shiny coat on top of the rust? to allow it to reappear a little bit later?

ask me how I know that.

sandblasting until the bare steel, or chemical etching is way better, but a less of DIY way to go.

 

[12pilgrim]

Powdercoat is best, this is great too

U-POL Tintable Spray On Raptor Bed Liner Kit, 821 | eBay

U-POL Tintable Spray On Raptor Bed Liner Kit, 821 UPO 821, Tintable Spray On Raptor Bed Liner Kit 4 quart Kit Includes Spray Gun UPO 821, Spray-on Raptor Tintable Bedliner Kit is a 2K polyurethane. This tough and protective bedliner kit has a textured finish.

www.ebay.com

 

[david85]

Powder coating tends to fail quickly once it's scratched. Hot dip galvanizing is much more effective and costs about the same. Sometimes less.

I used Raptor Liner on the exposed floor of my cab when I did the frame off resto years ago. It held up pretty well but isn't as durable as linex (although, linex is an entirely different process that can't be repeated at home). Raptor Liner cures very hard but can crack if you apply it too thick. A coat of fluidfilm has me sleeping easy, even if there are a few cracks here and there. Just don't use it on top of seam sealer or in areas prone to flex. Big mistake on my part.

 

[franklin2]

You are aware that with doing that, you only smear a shiny coat on top of the rust? to allow it to reappear a little bit later?

ask me how I know that.

sandblasting until the bare steel, or chemical etching is way better, but a less of DIY way to go.

Buy one of these needle scalers. They work very well at getting the swelled up layers of rust off. https://www.amazon.com/PROSHI-Compa...?keywords=needle+scaler&qid=1700313872&sr=8-9

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