drw questions

[SSD]

I have a 93 na CnC dually 4x4 im looking to swap out the narrow dually for a regular width drw need 4.11 and to use the same wheels other than that if I'm not mistaken spring pads and shock mounts will have to be moved, any ideas on what year models to look for a pickup drw 4.11 axle in?

 

[SSD]

If anybody close has one and wants to swap I'm down, or will trade for welding work when i get home from the sandbox

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Stick to '93-'97 axles, this will get you the VSS tone ring you need for your speedometer & ABS & cruise & E4OD (if so equipped), and you will also keep the stronger long-spline yoke setup you have now. Gas or diesel application doesn't really matter, in case your new axle runs a different U-joint you can swap the yokes easy enough, or run a conversion joint. I do have to ask tho, why do you want to go full-width? The tires sticking out that far can be majorly annoying in some situations, they can seriously limit how narrow trails you can fit the truck in and if you drop a pickup bed on it the fiberglass dually fenders are the first to get destroyed during an impact, even in parking lots by people swinging into the spot next to you without paying attention. Also, going from narrow dually to wide dually actually drops your rear axle rating from 8200 down to 7400lbs, not sure if that's important to you or not.

 

[SSD]

well I could sit here and make up some good reason but it boils down to personal preference and looks, the bed that got put on my truck is a CnC bed but its dually width. If I can find one cheap Ill swap it out if not it'll run just fine the way it is. If im pulling its not that heavy and if my poles are out my outriggers are down so I'm not to terribly worried about that 800lbs. It'll prolly never happen just have to much time to plan and scheme out here.

 

[ZWilson07]

So your basically just wanting the truck drw axle so that it looks better with the truck bed correct, instead of the tires being so sunk in with the CnC drw axle?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

SSD, considering where you are and what you're likely doing there, I think it's much better to have time to plan and scheme than no time at all due to busy action day in and day out But I'd say just skip the axle swap altogether, and instead simply run some good quality steel 2-1/2" hubcentric spacers between the inner and outer dual wheels. You'll get the outer tires closer to the bed side like you want, mud and snow will clean out much faster on their own, the only rocks you'll be able to pick and jam between the tires would be mini-boulder sized which are reasonably easy to see and avoid, and if down the road you decide you want bigger tires you won't have to worry about them rubbing sidewalls.

 

[SSD]

So your basically just wanting the truck drw axle so that it looks better with the truck bed correct, instead of the tires being so sunk in with the CnC drw axle?

Man you make it sound so bad that way lol

 

[SSD]

SSD, considering where you are and what you're likely doing there, I think it's much better to have time to plan and scheme than no time at all due to busy action day in and day out But I'd say just skip the axle swap altogether, and instead simply run some good quality steel 2-1/2" hubcentric spacers between the inner and outer dual wheels. You'll get the outer tires closer to the bed side like you want, mud and snow will clean out much faster on their own, the only rocks you'll be able to pick and jam between the tires would be mini-boulder sized which are reasonably easy to see and avoid, and if down the road you decide you want bigger tires you won't have to worry about them rubbing sidewalls.

already running spacers to clear the 35x12.50

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Is that the new bed you're talking about? If yes then I can see why you're wanting the pickup DRW axle. Well then, you know the drill now - get a '93-'97 axle and move spring perches in towards the diff Btw you mentioned outriggers, what bed exactly is that, mobile crane or boom-bucket or what??

 

[SSD]

Yea thats the bed, and not a mobile crane, gin-poles for lifting gates cattle guards dozer blades and whatnot, right now my outrigger consists of a 10k jack slid into the receiver, I have a idea in my head about take some 2 1/4 inch square sleeved with 2 1/2 sliding out the side to get some more width. I don't even need them most of the time but my winch is a 17.5 and I think overkill is a very underrated achievement so I tend to over build because well you never know what you will tie in to. I'm trying to set it up where when i get out i don't have to work for anybody but me.

 

[SSD]

Yea its nuts its almost dead nuts on 3 inches from where it would look right, heres a couple pics from my last R&R had the get enough done to work off of. I would much rather have built my own bed but I had stuff lined up and I got this one for cheaper that I could have got the iron for to build one so this will work just fine for the time being, the wheel thing is purely a looks thing but if I can find one for the right price game on right. Still got to do a couple things build lead wells, build the wells in the boxes, and cut the other box down. The boxes came from a oilfield company the bottoms are rusted out a bit but I cut them off gave $60 a pop came with keys and everything.

 

[SSD]

The way we use to do it back in the day, now I'm not saying its the best way but it worked well for us broke country kids for pasture buggys mud trucks ect, was we took the new axle removed all the perches and shock mounts, jacked up the tuck and put it on stands with the tires just off the ground unbolted everything rolled the whole thing out put the tires on the new axle rolled the whole thing under the truck set the perches on the axle tightened the ubolts just enough to get some friction squared everything up tightened the ubolts burned in the perches and shock mounts hooked the rest of the stuff up and let it off the stands it worked well for that kinda stuff anyone see any reason it wouldn't work for something that goes on the road?

 

[riotwarrior]

The way we use to do it back in the day, now I'm not saying its the best way but it worked well for us broke country kids for pasture buggys mud trucks ect, was we took the new axle removed all the perches and shock mounts, jacked up the tuck and put it on stands with the tires just off the ground unbolted everything rolled the whole thing out put the tires on the new axle rolled the whole thing under the truck set the perches on the axle tightened the ubolts just enough to get some friction squared everything up tightened the ubolts burned in the perches and shock mounts hooked the rest of the stuff up and let it off the stands it worked well for that kinda stuff anyone see any reason it wouldn't work for something that goes on the road?

Most of what I read is fine, just tack the pads and shock mounts in place, then unbolt roll out and really burn **** in good roll it back under and be done! More access and better welds usually from what I"ve seen not fighting u bolts etc.

JM2CW

Al

 

[FarmerFrank]

quick question, What is the width from center of perch to perch on Cab and Chassis model anyway?

 

[SSD]

quick question, What is the width from center of perch to perch on Cab and Chassis model anyway?

I would love to help you bud but I don't have accesses to my truck at the moment