Power window problem

[TWeatherford]

A few months ago I finally got around to installing new rubber plugs in my driver side window motor. Now my window goes up and down great, but I know why the last one failed (before I bought the truck). The motor never kicks off... is it supposed to?

When I wind up the passenger side window, it goes up properly, doesn't hesitate or anything, and when it tops out against the window frame, it just stops. I assume that the motor turns off, but I don't know. When I do the same with the driver side, if I keep pushing the button more than an instant after it tops out, it'll make a nasty pop, a second later it'll pop again, and it'll continue to do so until I let off the button. I figure that the force of the motor topping out is causing enough deflection for it to skip a tooth somewhere, or thats just the rubber plugs giving out again. It has done this since I first put new plugs in.

So my question is, is the motor supposed to shut itself off even if someone keeps holding the button?

 

[smolkin]

there isn't any "stop", mechanical or electrical per se; the window just stops against the seal in the channel. It could be a bad gear, I just replaced the plugs in my driver side motor (right after I read about it here - OB) but it still made that popping sound and would get hung up midway occasionally. It was the teeth on the gear which was made of nylon-looking plastic and just too worn. Had to replace the motor.

 

[icanfixall]

These motors only have power going thru them when the lever is pushed for it to go up or down. They will continue to have power just as long as you feed it power thru the lever your pushing on. Watch your dash volt meter deflect when the window reaches the top or bottom position.

 

[Brad S.]

I just replaced my drivers side window motor assy, the old motor would turn but the gear wouldn't. I suppose the pin that holds the gear on the motor shaft was sheared off from to many times of "over closing" the window.

 

[Agnem]

Always been a pet peave of mine that no one seems to have integrated a limit switch into a power window design. Running current through a stalled motor just doesn't do anything any good, and your window switches will pit like heck when you finally release them. I always try to time my actuations so that the switch is released as soon as it hits the stop. In fact, if you want to be a finatic about it (like I do), always run your window most of the way down before you try to make it go back up. The lowest amount of torque required to move the window will occur when it is almost all the way down or all the way up. At half position, it will take nearly twice the current to make it move. This is because of the way the actuating arm rides in the window track, and the fulcrum point in relation to the position of the window.

 

[SparkandFire]

Always been a pet peave of mine that no one seems to have integrated a limit switch into a power window design. Running current through a stalled motor just doesn't do anything any good, and your window switches will pit like heck when you finally release them. I always try to time my actuations so that the switch is released as soon as it hits the stop. In fact, if you want to be a finatic about it (like I do), always run your window most of the way down before you try to make it go back up. The lowest amount of torque required to move the window will occur when it is almost all the way down or all the way up. At half position, it will take nearly twice the current to make it move. This is because of the way the actuating arm rides in the window track, and the fulcrum point in relation to the position of the window.

And this here, ladies and gentlemen, is why the Moose mobiles will last throughout eternity...