Finally going back together 7.3T

65sixbanger

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I pulled the blown motor out of mine, the motor out of the truck at the junkyard, installed mine fully dreesed, pulled it again and put it back with the rad support on. You get pretty good at it LOL
 

THECACKLER

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HIJACKED...

I have never pulled the front clip before. I always did it the hard way. The first time I did it I pulled the grill & radiator support because my hoist wouldn't go high enough. That was alot of work. When you pull the whole front clip, do you leave all the Peripheral Paraphernalia attached to the inner fenders and just unplug or disconnect it all and do you leave the hood on the clip or take it off first.
 

rckslash2010

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Great project, great pic's. It would be awesome to be able to do something like this. Maybe in my next life.
 

dansvan

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Read an article recently that stated the turbo blocks were .100 thicker in the main web area. Anyone removing all the turbo components from one run across this?
 

idiabuse

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Installed almost fully dressed

At first I tried with the forklift
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That was not going to work for me, to much too fast, I had to slow it all down.
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I did get it in, had to remove starter and crossover exhaust pipe.
It was not easy as the turbo hits the firewall and wont let the motor
sit down correctly, I had the drivers motor mount in the hole first.
Then trying to get the last inch of movement rearward on the pass motor mount I could not get it, I seperated the mount, then the motor was able to come down just enough for the turbo to slip underneath the firewall lip.
All I had to do was wiggle the mount to get the two 5/8 bolts started.
all done!
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soon it will be back on the road! I miss my old truck!
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Javier
 

Agnem

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I have never pulled the front clip before. I always did it the hard way. The first time I did it I pulled the grill & radiator support because my hoist wouldn't go high enough. That was alot of work. When you pull the whole front clip, do you leave all the Peripheral Paraphernalia attached to the inner fenders and just unplug or disconnect it all and do you leave the hood on the clip or take it off first.

Yes, you just undo the front body mounts under the core support, 2 bolts each side where the fender mounts to the cab, remove the hood support from the fenders, and take out 1 bolt each side about half way down the door, and then the bolts under the cab floor at each fender corner. One more on each side where the plastic inner fender is bolted to the frame. That's 12 fasteners total, all easy to get to. Undoing the core support like in the pictures, involves a lot of little screws that get real frustrating to put back in, because when you drop them they "disappear". You still have to deal with the wiring harness in either case, but that's not a big deal if you haven't added a lot of custom stuff.
 

THECACKLER

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Javier - Thanks a lot. Nice thread. It's been several years since I stuffed an IDI and I really appreciated the refresher. I did precisely what you did minus the hood. But I didn't have the Turbo to deal with.
Mel - I'm game for the full clip pull, but I'm still wondering whether to disconnect the Peripherals from the Cab or from the Clip or half and half. I believe I am going to attempt to "lay off" the A/C Compressor and Condenser back over onto the windshield / cowl area while the system is closed.. I just got it charged with R-12 last season.
 

65sixbanger

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Javier - Thanks a lot. Nice thread. It's been several years since I stuffed an IDI and I really appreciated the refresher. I did precisely what you did minus the hood. But I didn't have the Turbo to deal with.
Mel - I'm game for the full clip pull, but I'm still wondering whether to disconnect the Peripherals from the Cab or from the Clip or half and half. I believe I am going to attempt to "lay off" the A/C Compressor and Condenser back over onto the windshield / cowl area while the system is closed.. I just got it charged with R-12 last season.

Is that an Allis-Chalmers crawler in your avatar?
 

THECACKLER

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65SIXBANGER - "Is that an Allis-Chalmers crawler in your avatar? "
It's an International Crawler, I think it's a model 180.
 

idiabuse

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Cranked up the truck finally, been sitting ready to start since the beginning of march, I just had too much going on to mess with it.
So just the other day I poured in 10 gallons diesel, 12volts to the holley blue
filled the filter head with diesel and cranked over the engine till all the loose injectors were wet, tightened them up, one squirt of starting fluid and she came to life!
Nice to hear the engine crank up with no difficulties!
ALL new parts and hopefully they all work well together when I can get her on the road.
Bad news is insurance and registration will cost as much as the engine!
Thanks for reading this in advance!
Javier
 

icanfixall

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Idiabuse... I noticied in a pic you have the heavy cast iron flywheel flexplate setup. If you have a starter grinding on the gear Napps sells a gear and cheap too. Nobody makes the stamped steel plate the torque converter bolts to either nor the cast iron wheel. You can upgrade to the newer stamped plate with the gear welded to it. I think they were on all 91 and up rigs. It will require the special crank spacer that also no longer make but BTS has everything to make the conversion. Or find a wrecked truck if the time comes to needing this change...
 

idiabuse

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Hey thanks for the heads up I had to remove the ring gear with a torch and reversed it, so I'm good for some time, but I hear ya!
I had that whole deal balanced, so hopefully the last I will fool with that.
My starter is the mini starter and works great with my giant battery and cable wire.

Javier
 

towcat

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Hey thanks for the heads up I had to remove the ring gear with a torch and reversed it, so I'm good for some time, but I hear ya!
I had that whole deal balanced, so hopefully the last I will fool with that.
My starter is the mini starter and works great with my giant battery and cable wire.

Javier
i know you'll argue with me about it, but others need to read it before they try it. flipping the ring gear on these motors is a bad idea due to the fact the teeth are bevel cut on the starter side. Starter Bendix gears have a tough enough time meshing without clashing, so a straight cut gear is going to make things a little more dicey. I'll post pics later so show the difference in the front and back sides of the ring gear.
 

icanfixall

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Oh man... I hope you didn't just flip over the ring gear... If you did take it off now or the starter will never work properly. Its as towcat posted. Just buy a replacement gear now because you wont be able to find where to reinstall the ring gear you have. What you needed to do was remove the gear and clock it around on the flywheel about 1/3 revolution so new teeth are being used by the starter. These motor start and stop on only 3 places so those 3 locations get lots of gear wear. Sorry for the bad news but its better to find out now than later when it wont engage.....
 

idiabuse

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Wow! I did this years ago and had no issues with tooth contact since. I must of got lucky.
Javier
 

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