Rotella vs Delo

[geonc]

my couple pennies.....I have used nothing but Rotella 15-40 in my past 4 diesels and all have gone past the 300k mi mark...3 of those were n/a IDI and in my current PSD I generally use 2-3 qts in 5 k mi.

Not knocking Delo or Delvac by any means.......but Rotella has been very good to me so why change?

And Towkitty has a valid point...MIL specs have changed drastically in the past decade and I find the soot control additives in Rotella beneficial...not so much at the tailpipe.....but what I see during oil changes....it still takes quite a few miles before I see any color change in the oil....you should see the color on dipstick after a service---HONEY golden and difficult to see sometimes

 

[4x7.3NE]

I dunno, My 85 eats delo at a 2:1 rate over Rotella.

I think Ya run what got ya there.
If the PO used Delo, Use Delo. If They used Rotella, use that.

I have to agree!!!!! I drove over the road for 10-15 yrs and drove a hundred diff trucks and motors and never found them to use rotella any faster than any other oil. For the most part if your motor likes oil and uses it ,its gonna use some no matter the brand, if you add stuff like lucas to thicken it up you may slow it down. We had 3 cummins n14 motors with way over a million miles on them that were bought new and used rotella from day one and had not been touched except for the overheads ran!

 

[Agnem]

I'd say try both and send your oil to Blackstone for analysis. Whichever comes back with better numbers is the one I would use. I used to run Motorcraft for most of the Moose Truck's life. When the CJ API spec came around though, I abandoned that, favoring Brad Penn CI API diesel oil. Now I'm running a domestic oil that is closer to what the engine was designed to run on instead of the new stuff. I was always of the opionion that if you had good luck with something you shouldn't change it. But when that "something" changes under you, then you have no choice but to do what feels right.

 

[4x7.3NE]

I'd say try both and send your oil to Blackstone for analysis. Whichever comes back with better numbers is the one I would use. I used to run Motorcraft for most of the Moose Truck's life. When the CJ API spec came around though, I abandoned that, favoring Brad Penn CI API diesel oil. Now I'm running a domestic oil that is closer to what the engine was designed to run on instead of the new stuff. I was always of the opionion that if you had good luck with something you shouldn't change it. But when that "something" changes under you, then you have no choice but to do what feels right.

Does motorcraft have a oil recommended for the diesel? I have considered that , I like rotella in the big trucks but have not decided for sure which way to go with the 7.3 s , rotella I can get everywhere which is a plus. I think walmart carries a motorcraft oil but am not for sure.

 

[snicklas]

Does motorcraft have a oil recommended for the diesel? I have considered that , I like rotella in the big trucks but have not decided for sure which way to go with the 7.3 s , rotella I can get everywhere which is a plus. I think walmart carries a motorcraft oil but am not for sure.

Yes they do, it has the PowerStroke name on the label also. I have been using the MotorCraft oil and my truck seems to like it. I have a newer truck thought (03 6.0) but I have been happy with it. One thing that is nice it at Wally World (Sorry Mel) the jugs are 5 Quart and the same price as the 4 Quart jugs of Rotella. So I only have to buy 3 and dont have to worry about measuring off the extra quart......

 

[Agnem]

I wouldn't be surprised if there is something about the tramjaw oil on the shelves that isn't different from what the dealer carries... Might want to have a sample of both analyzed. The problem with the Motorcraft oil now, is that it is API CJ instead of CI. Hence my departure from using it.

 

[4x7.3NE]

I wouldn't be surprised if there is something about the tramjaw oil on the shelves that isn't different from what the dealer carries... Might want to have a sample of both analyzed. The problem with the Motorcraft oil now, is that it is API CJ instead of CI. Hence my departure from using it.

You said earlier you have switched to a domestic oil. What type and what do you think about synthetics or synthetic blends?

 

[Agnem]

I'm running Brad Penn heavy duty select, made by American Refining Group in Bradford PA. They source their crude from PA and Ohio wells. Synthetics have always scared me because of their perpensity for causing leaks. I've never used them. I suppose however, if you have a new motor and you wean it on the stuff, it will work fine.

 

[ameristar1]

You said earlier you have switched to a domestic oil. What type and what do you think about synthetics or synthetic blends?

I have run Amsoil full synthetics for about 13 years, and I have never been afraid to run them in high mileage diesel engines. The main thing is to get the engine cleaned and prepped for it, and while I would have said put the Amsoil engine flush in, I no longer can say that because the cleaner has a solvent action which is just too harsh. After doing some research here and hearing the glowing compliments about Auto Rx, that is what should be used.

The benefits of a high quality synthetic or synthetic blend are well known and documented. But at the same time, in every situation, do you need it?
If you live in places where the environment is severe cold or severe hot and constant severe stress, absolutely. Worth every penny. But, in the end, as long as the oil (petroleum or synthetic) conforms to the manufacturers standards for use in their engines, it will work. I know we fight about which brand is better or blend is better, but even the cheapest store brand, if it is filtered properly, can help make an engine go a long time. There have been more than enough diesels that have lasted a very long time before synthetics and blends came along.

I run synthetics in everything because time is money. When the wheels don't spin, no money's made, and I hate going to shops. If I can extend the time I see the mechanic by a good amount, it keeps the stress level down.
In the cold, the engine spins faster for easier starts, in the heat, the engine runs a good 10-20 degrees cooler. I know my PSDs ran a lot better after the change.

But even with that, if an engine has a prelubrication system, and a very effective bypass filtration system, it really won't make that much of a difference.

 

[WrickM]

i think engine oil is overrated. i prefer to use pebbles of limestone with a little mineral oil to makes them slide around the engine.

on a completely unrelated note, my engine seems to be locked and i can figure out why.

 

[ameristar1]

i think engine oil is overrated. i prefer to use pebbles of limestone with a little mineral oil to makes them slide around the engine.

on a completely unrelated note, my engine seems to be locked and i can figure out why.

What happened? Lost oil pressure?

 

[Diesel JD]

Didn't give it to our dear leader in the C4C program did you? If so that was the desired result....if not, I am truly sorry. We can help you get it figured out. I'm currently running amsoil Diesel and Marine 15w40. I have no unusual leaks yet, no bad noises etc., we'll have to see how the oil analysis looks once I have a few thousand on it. This truck has a new-ish rear main seal, not very many leaks to start with, an oil cooler R&R within the past 3 or 4 years, head gaskets a few years ago and a new water pump. All that plus with the dino oil I ran short intervales (2500-3500 miles) and added a bit of make up oil over the runs. I also used the auto-RX "snake oil", it may be my imagination but it seems to have reduced blowby and oil consumption ever so slightly. I've been running B100 mostly for the past 4-5 years and the auto -rx is also an ester which are great industrial cleaners. I doubt it is very dirty to begin with and hopefully the seals are now "conditioned" like I say, so far, so good, but I only have a bit shy of 500 miles on the good stuff. Also am running it with an amsoil absolute efficiency filter. I don't know if they're worth the extra scratch yet but they were cheaper than Wix from NAPA or Carquest so I can hardly complain as long as they are good. The amsoil dealer I buy from is a member here and also runs it in his truck. I look at it as an experiment and I'm excited to see what I'll learn...if it leaks I see it as my fault for putting full synthetic in a high mileage diesel, if not and the oil consumption stays low I'm dollars ahead if I can double or triple the change interval at least.

 

[CDX825]

I changed my oil from rotella to motorcraft CI-4 last friday. Found some new old stock CI-4 motorcraft and decided it would probably be better than rotella.

Here is an interesting link I cam across while trying to decide witch oil to use this time around. I know you can't believe everything you read on the internet but who knows?
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/tdrarticles/tdrarticle56_lubeoilspecs.html

 

[trackspeeder]

Yes they do, it has the PowerStroke name on the label also. I have been using the MotorCraft oil and my truck seems to like it. I have a newer truck thought (03 6.0) but I have been happy with it. One thing that is nice it at Wally World (Sorry Mel) the jugs are 5 Quart and the same price as the 4 Quart jugs of Rotella. So I only have to buy 3 and dont have to worry about measuring off the extra quart......

I just tried the Ford stuff. The PSD didn't like it. Oil consumption was way up. The IDI loves it. Oil consumption is down.

Normally I use Rotella synthetic in the PSD. Plain old Rotella in the IDI.