Batteries

kcw12

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Well folks, i believe its time for me get some new batteries. The other morning i cranked my truck for around 20 seconds then it was to the point of no start. you know Woooooooh wooooooooooooooh wooooooooooooooooooooh. It also set for a week and then went crank over, the famous click click click. But as long as i just drove it, and dont let it set, she'll fire right up. New cables are on it. Cleaned and the whole 9 yards, its got a pair of NeverStarts in it. Any input
 

icanfixall

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The diesel motor vibration will kill the battery if they are just car batteries. You need a battery thats designed for a diesel. Now the starter can be going bad and it makes the same feeling as the batteries are going dead. Try to get an amp draw test done when the starter is turning. Most batteries only last for around 4 to 5 years in a diesel. Some have gotten more but thats not the norm.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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its got a pair of NeverStarts in it. Any input

You just answered your own question.:D

:backoff Get yourself a pair of Group 31 and it will throw the engine out of the rails.:backoff

They fit the trays like they were meant to be in there.
 

kcw12

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so group 31s fit in there? i bought the truck used. So no idea on the batteries, they are not marked
 
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subway

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if it is going dead while sitting allong with all the great suggestions above you might want to check the amp draw while the truck is off if you dont find anything else wrong. i know i cant park my jeep longer than a few days or the battery is dead. i tracked it down to the "Cough" AC delco alternator "cough" i know a motorcraft one wouldent do that :D it draws an amp or two, like leaving your dome light on all the time.
 

82F100SWB

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I've got 'em in my 86, no problem, even using the stock holddowns, 87+, I think the battery tray sits a good bit higher, but, I think they might still fit OK.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Where would one source Group 31 batteries??


I get factory appearance blems for $38 at the local battery factory.

Anywhere that sells batteries should have Group 31 batteries as they are very common.

Group 30 is exactly the same battery, with the posts off-set to one side of the top; whereas, Group 31 have the posts on centerline.

If I was going to the expense of new batteries, I would change over to ring/lug type cable-ends and buy stud-type batteries.
 

gabbyr100rs

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Doing some on line research, I found the "31" batteries--prices are all over the place. The factory blems for $39 are a steal!! Where is that factory!!

the stud and ring type terminal ends should be more positive (tight) and less prone to corrosion. How easy is switching ones cable ends over to the ring ends?? If the cable is in good shape without any embedded corrosion, what, other than a crimping tool, can be used to affix the cable end?? A piece of shrink tube around the cable and about half an inch onto the cable end should help to seal the cable end against corrosion.

Measuring the height of the studs for the ring type, versus the standard post type will be important, as the 31 series may be a bit taller than the auto type batteries that are in the truck now.

Lots of cranking amps will be appreciated on cold mornings. No starting problems now, it just cranks over more slowly when cold soaked from sitting out in the wind all night. Glow plugs cycle once, then a couple or three cranks and white smoke time!!

I am thinking of switching over to the ring type 31 equivalent, then moving the existing Megatrons that are about a year old into the Land Cruiser and the Saab 900 Turbo--they should be a significant cranking power upgrade if they will fit into the battery boxes.

Does Wally World or any of the big box discount guys carry 31's, or do I need to look at local big truck suppliers??

Thanks.
 

The Warden

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FWIW, a crimping tool isn't an absolute requirement to get the ring terminals on. I made new battery cables for my truck (with ring terminals, although I've got ring-to-lug adapters on my current batteries until I replace the batteries next time), and I used a big screwdriver and some carefully-located blows with a BFH to crimp the ring terminals on.

I'm sure that a crimping tool would make it a bit cleaner, but if it's not something you'd regularly use, alternatives exist :) (and the crimping tools I saw were VERY expensive, particularly for a one-time-use item). I just made sure that the terminals wouldn't pull out, then used heat-shrink to seal things up. The new cables have been working beautifully so far!

BTW, with heat shrink, make sure you get the stuff with glue on the inside...it'll seal much better. West Marine carries it; I'm sure it's available elsewhere as well. I ended up buying a $15 heat gun from Harbor Freight as well; makes life a LOT easier than trying to hold a Bic lighter to get the stuff to seal :rolleyes:
 

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