Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
... because that's what's up!....
Trailered home a 1989 F350 dump truck that looks great on the outside, but the 7.3 IDI is something else
- Thread starter crazydane
- Start date
Dropped the fuel tanks:
Will get them all cleaned up next and coat the steel one.
Rear frame looks a lot cleaner now:
Fuel sending units:
Unfortunately both measure open. I think these are the correct replacements?
Front:
Rear:
Thanks
You must be registered for see images attach
Will get them all cleaned up next and coat the steel one.
Rear frame looks a lot cleaner now:
You must be registered for see images attach
Fuel sending units:
You must be registered for see images attach
Unfortunately both measure open. I think these are the correct replacements?
Front:
You must be registered for see images attach
Rear:
You must be registered for see images attach
Thanks
Last edited:
Got the above parts on order.
Did initial rinse of the tanks. The metal one doesn't look that bad inside I don't think:
Looks like the rust spots are all concentrated on the floor, so I'll focus my "shaking" having the tank upright.
These are the pieces I found rattling inside this tank:
There were 3 small rocks as well. Not sure if that means the tank has been cleaned out in the past or not.
The plastic tank just had one little plastic piece in it. The access hole is very small, so its hard to get a good look inside of it. But figured I'll just clean real well with warm soapy water and then dry it out really well.
Did initial rinse of the tanks. The metal one doesn't look that bad inside I don't think:
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Looks like the rust spots are all concentrated on the floor, so I'll focus my "shaking" having the tank upright.
These are the pieces I found rattling inside this tank:
You must be registered for see images attach
There were 3 small rocks as well. Not sure if that means the tank has been cleaned out in the past or not.
The plastic tank just had one little plastic piece in it. The access hole is very small, so its hard to get a good look inside of it. But figured I'll just clean real well with warm soapy water and then dry it out really well.
IDIBOBS
Registered User
Wow for 170 you could buy a 38g rear tank with new sending unit annd shower head already to go. Your already at $110ish just for the sender and head for the stock tank.
Doesn’t work with a cab and chassis truck
Figured since I'm this far in, I might as well tear it down the rest of the way. Removed the PTO driveshaft and then the 2 piece main driveshaft. Got both ends freed up and supported while I removed the center support:
Didn't realize at the time that the rear section just pulls out, so I could have just done that instead of struggling to remove the whole thing as a single unit:
I'll replace that rubber piece for sure, but the actual center bearing, is it replaceable? It feels ok, but got some wobble to it.
Figured I might as well remove the transmission as well at this point to inspect it and clean it up:
Looks to be the original and I don't think anyone has been in it:
Since I have no idea what condition its in since I never got a chance to drive the truck, and thinking the truck has either 160k or 260k on the odometer, that rebuilding the transmission might be a smart move?
You must be registered for see images attach
Didn't realize at the time that the rear section just pulls out, so I could have just done that instead of struggling to remove the whole thing as a single unit:
You must be registered for see images attach
I'll replace that rubber piece for sure, but the actual center bearing, is it replaceable? It feels ok, but got some wobble to it.
Figured I might as well remove the transmission as well at this point to inspect it and clean it up:
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Looks to be the original and I don't think anyone has been in it:
You must be registered for see images attach
Since I have no idea what condition its in since I never got a chance to drive the truck, and thinking the truck has either 160k or 260k on the odometer, that rebuilding the transmission might be a smart move?
Speedo gear is shot:
Throw-out bearing feels good, but probably cheap insurance to just go ahead and replace it.
I noticed the parking brake cables have been rubbing pretty bad against the rear shocks:
The driver side to the point of wearing through not only the plastic sheathing, but also a good bit of the metal shield as well. Is there a better way to route the parking brake cables to avoid this?
Original fuel tank selector valve that was bypassed:
Are those short rubber fuel lines with hose clamps stock?
You must be registered for see images attach
Throw-out bearing feels good, but probably cheap insurance to just go ahead and replace it.
You must be registered for see images attach
I noticed the parking brake cables have been rubbing pretty bad against the rear shocks:
You must be registered for see images attach
The driver side to the point of wearing through not only the plastic sheathing, but also a good bit of the metal shield as well. Is there a better way to route the parking brake cables to avoid this?
Original fuel tank selector valve that was bypassed:
You must be registered for see images attach
Are those short rubber fuel lines with hose clamps stock?
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
You can't replace just the rubber piece. It's what holds the bearing itself and comes attached to the bearing.
You might as well since it's out.
No they're not.
Getting the old carrier bearing off was a bear. Getting the rubber boot off was pretty straight forward after putting a heat gun to it to soften it up some. That left me with this:
Shaft was too long to fit in my press and I didn't have any other bearing pullers that would reach that deep. So off the HF to pick up a big boy puller. The jaws where too thick to fit the space between the bearing for shaft collar. So I had to use a bearing separator and then the puller:
At first it still wouldn't not come off. Removed the puller and applied heat to the bearing, and then it finally popped quite spectacularly. Cleaned up the shaft:
Looking at Rockauto, there appears to be 2 different I.D. carrier bearings, 1.378" and 1.5748". Mine is the larger one, which I'm guessing is what the 7.3 equipped vehicles come with.
The old one came apart from pulling and judging from the grease, I think replacing it was a wise choice:
The U joints all have MG 331F stamped on them, which I believe are Moog 331's. Or do you guys recommend going with different ones?
You must be registered for see images attach
Shaft was too long to fit in my press and I didn't have any other bearing pullers that would reach that deep. So off the HF to pick up a big boy puller. The jaws where too thick to fit the space between the bearing for shaft collar. So I had to use a bearing separator and then the puller:
You must be registered for see images attach
At first it still wouldn't not come off. Removed the puller and applied heat to the bearing, and then it finally popped quite spectacularly. Cleaned up the shaft:
You must be registered for see images attach
Looking at Rockauto, there appears to be 2 different I.D. carrier bearings, 1.378" and 1.5748". Mine is the larger one, which I'm guessing is what the 7.3 equipped vehicles come with.
The old one came apart from pulling and judging from the grease, I think replacing it was a wise choice:
You must be registered for see images attach
The U joints all have MG 331F stamped on them, which I believe are Moog 331's. Or do you guys recommend going with different ones?
Last edited:
Next I moved on to cleaning up the transmission. Given how nasty it was when I started, I think it cleaned up fairly well:
The fork boot is shot:
As is the shifter boot:
And 2 of the top plate bolts are missing, so I'll take back what I said about nobody having been in the transmission.
The filler plug was also mangled up pretty bad:
I have to file 2 of the flats before I could get a 18 mm 6 point socket on it.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
The fork boot is shot:
You must be registered for see images attach
As is the shifter boot:
You must be registered for see images attach
And 2 of the top plate bolts are missing, so I'll take back what I said about nobody having been in the transmission.
The filler plug was also mangled up pretty bad:
You must be registered for see images attach
I have to file 2 of the flats before I could get a 18 mm 6 point socket on it.
The speedometer worm gear is messed up too:
Unfortunately, it order to replace it, it looks like I'll have to tear the transmission down, in which case I might as well rebuilt it...
You must be registered for see images attach
Unfortunately, it order to replace it, it looks like I'll have to tear the transmission down, in which case I might as well rebuilt it...
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
They are. I used a cut off wheel on a grinder to cut almost all the way through mine. Then I used a chisel attachment on an air hammer to split it the rest of the way. Once it split, the rest came off easy.
I can't speak about all trucks, but that's the same way with my 1985. I bought both bearings and returned the one that I didn't need. I also went to a local parts store so I didn't have to try to return one to Rock Auto.
I might be wrong since it's been over 25 years since I've been inside one, but you might be able to remove the rear yoke, the seal, and then slide the gear out of the back.
I'll look into the possibility of sliding the speedo gear out the back. 1st I need to source a new one. Thinking I might call High Impact Transmission & Gear since they appear to have experience rebuilding ZF5s.
Regarding the fuel lines back to the tanks, I take it the pre-formed nylon lines are no longer made, so I guess my only option is to just get regular flexible hose and use regular clamps at the tank and selector valve fittings?
Speaking of fuel, I got my filtered transfer pump rigged up:
Figured 10 micron would be good. I plan to re-install to my regular 120 gallon off-road transfer tank once I have filtered the fuel I extracted through it. That tank currently doesn't have a filter on it. I re-purposed the electric fuel pump that was on the truck for this. Sucking through a 3/8" hose, the transfer won't be fast, but I'll only have to do it once. When I install it on the transfer tank, it will be flowing through a 3/4" hose.
Regarding the fuel lines back to the tanks, I take it the pre-formed nylon lines are no longer made, so I guess my only option is to just get regular flexible hose and use regular clamps at the tank and selector valve fittings?
Speaking of fuel, I got my filtered transfer pump rigged up:
You must be registered for see images attach
Figured 10 micron would be good. I plan to re-install to my regular 120 gallon off-road transfer tank once I have filtered the fuel I extracted through it. That tank currently doesn't have a filter on it. I re-purposed the electric fuel pump that was on the truck for this. Sucking through a 3/8" hose, the transfer won't be fast, but I'll only have to do it once. When I install it on the transfer tank, it will be flowing through a 3/4" hose.
Similar threads
