Trailered home a 1989 F350 dump truck that looks great on the outside, but the 7.3 IDI is something else

[crazydane]

Also had a chance to break down the blower assembly and A/C. The housing for the evaporator core is in bad shape:

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Chunks are missing and it is cracked all along one side. I'm guessing it will be very challenging to find a replacement?

Also, this vacuum motor has seen better days:

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The bladder seems intact, but it won't retract the diverter gate on its own without a little help. It looks like I might be able to still find those. Any recommendations?

The rubber in the core supports has rotted away as I'm looking to replace those. Am I supposed to knock this out with a hammer from above?

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Not having much luck if that's the case. I do see a bolt head below, so maybe try unscrewing it while holding the large piece above the frame with a pipe wrench?

After removing the floor liner and all the junk after market wiring:

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I was left with holes in the firewall I need to plug:

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Are there oem plugs for those, or should I just measure their sizes and look for some generic grommets?

 

[Nero]

But what about the radio???!!???!!?!!111!!?!??11!!?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

But I guess that's how its supposed to be routed?

Yes that's correct.

The rubber in the core supports has rotted away as I'm looking to replace those.

I believe those are considered to be body mount bushings. A new set/kit should come with enough for the cab and those as well.

I do see a bolt head below, so maybe try unscrewing it while holding the large piece above the frame with a pipe wrench?

Yes.

measure their sizes and look for some generic grommets?

This is the way.

 

[crazydane]

But what about the radio???!!???!!?!!111!!?!??11!!?

That 2014 Dual Electronics radio is being replace by this:

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It was just sitting in the opening without having been bolted down as no installation kit was used.

And the generic door speakers are being replaced by these:

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Also looking for a powered sub that will fit under the bench seat or behind it. Any experiences on what will fit?

Maybe this guy?

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Its only 3.25" tall. I know its a dump truck, but gotta have tunes that will drown out the IDI. I don't know that I've ever heard a running IDI, but I hear they are pretty loud.

 

[crazydane]

Took the core to a body shop. After looking at it, he did not recommend attempting to fix it. The area above the rusted out part that supports the fender liners would likely rust out in short order along the repair welds.

I just realized that diesel core support without A/C actually uses a smaller radiator. Silly me thought it would just be missing brackets for the condenser. And it seems that nobody makes a proper aftermarket core supporting the taller radiator. Ford part F1TZ-16138-G. Why didn't Ford just put the larger radiator in all diesels from that era regardless of them having A/C or not?

So do I get the LMC/NPD one and also the smaller radiator to go with? OR, should I consider getting this 1992+ one instead:

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That's assuming it will work with my current radiator. I was going to pick up new head lights anyway. Wasn't sure if I'll have fender or hood fitment issues?

EDIT: Looked into doing the 89 to 92-96 conversion and its more effort than I'm willing to put into it. Will keep looking for a core with A/C. Can't believe these are such unicorns...

Also spoke with Joe from CDD and he got my IPs and my order for a rebuilt one is finally in.

 

[Old Goat]

As long as you have things taken apart, here is a link to
new Heater seal/gaskets.

Ford 80-86 Pickup Truck F150 F250 Bronco AC Heater Box Rebuild Seal Kit

1980-86 Ford F150 F250 & Bronco AC Heater box rebuild gasket & seal kit

www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com

Here is for the 87 - 91 trucks.

Ford 87-91 Pickup Truck F150 F250 Bronco AC Heater Box Rebuild Seal Kit

1980-86 Ford F150 F250 & Bronco AC Heater box rebuild gasket & seal kit

www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com

Goat

 

[crazydane]

Thanks @Old Goat Order placed!

 

[crazydane]

Found a used one on Marketplace in decent shape:

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He also sent me a video:

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No cracks along the top. Figured I'll get it cleaned up and then hit it with POR-15 and then glossy white.

 

[Old Goat]

Be a good idea to have it sand blasted and then a couple good
coats of POR-15.
Be sure to wear gloves with that stuff, or it will have to wear off.

I buy the 6 pack of cans. This stuff is moisture activated. So painting out of a larger can, moisture is getting in there, and that will get it to set up. Also if the groove isn`t cleaned out, You will never get the lid off.
Here in Nevada it is so dry, takes for ever to set up. Spray water around the work area good. and the evaporation will
help.

Found out about that years ago, bought the pint cans. next time
I needed to use it, lid would not come off and bottom of can was bulged out.

Talked to my distributor, and they said to pour/dip out what you need. Then put Seran Wrap and pound the lid back on. Then turn the can up side down.

I use those HF cheap brushes, sell them in box`s of around 50?
1" 2" etc... then just toss them.

We have a Summit Racing 60 miles north of here in Reno.
Thanks for reminding me... we will be up there tomorrow
and I can pick up some more.

They also have a top coat in spray cans, satan, and glossy. If
it is exposed to the sun it can get chalky, dull looking. In black only far as I know.

If it gets into a threaded hole, be sure to use a Tap to clean out the hole. Years ago I figured the 10mm bolt I was putting would just cut into the threads. It snapped off. That POR is some tough stuff.

There are other products, only used POR.
Brake fluid will mess it up though. Don`t know what paint holds up to it.


Goat

 

[crazydane]

Yep, great tips about POR-15. I have used it quite bit like on my gooseneck trailer frame and batwing mower decks. Very true about it having to wear off if you get it on your hands. Ask me how I know, lol. I too used cheap HF brushes on those other projects and the Saran Wrap, but I didn't flip my can over last time I used it, which is now over a year ago. Guess I'll order up one of those 6 packs. On a positive note, it goes a surprisingly long way.

Main downside is the guy with the core is in PA and I'm in VA, so it will be like a 9 hour round trip for me plus about 38 gallons of diesel. Will have to check my DEF level too and see if I need to top that off. At least that's one thing I'll never have to worry about with the 7.3, lol.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

And it seems that nobody makes a proper aftermarket core supporting the taller radiator.

That's what I was thinking.

Why didn't Ford just put the larger radiator in all diesels from that era regardless of them having A/C or not?

That sure would have made a lot of sense!

So do I get the LMC/NPD one and also the smaller radiator to go with? OR, should I consider getting this 1992+ one instead:

I sure wouldn't use a smaller radiator.

Found a used one on Marketplace in decent shape:

That one ought to last you a long time.

They also have a top coat in spray cans, satan,

That sounds like a devilishly hot color.

 

[crazydane]

Spent most of the day cleaning up more parts. Unfortunately I ripped the rubber thingy on the air filter in the process:

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Do they still make that guy? I suppose I could wrap some electrical tape around it, but would prefer just getting a new one.

Sorted all the remaining fasteners and misc. small pieces:

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Remaining cables cleaned up:

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Still need to tear that one harness all the way down for a bath in the ultra sonic.

Got my glow plug connectors from Accurate Diesel and got them crimped on and heat shrinked:

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Pulled the IP cluster and cleaned it and all the bulbs:

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I'll look at getting some LED replacement for all those bulbs. I think they are 194s.

 

[crazydane]

I think I'm missing the springs that keep the doors open:

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There should be a tab or something pressing against that roller I would think.

Got the rear cover removed:

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Dash view:

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Cab still smells like rat **** so I think I'm going to remove the dash and cleanup whatever mess they made back there. Really don't have that much left to remove before I'd be able to do that. This will allow be to fully clean everywhere. I also ordered new body mounts (all 6, including the core support). So gutting the cab will make that easier and I'll also POR 15 all rusted areas in the cab.

Engine as done as its going to get until I get the IP from CDD:

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If I get everything else done before the IP gets here, I suppose I could still drop it back in and just install the IP after the fact.

Shop shot:

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Looks like a low rider next to the other truck, and that's with it sitting high since the engine is not in it yet.

Going up Monday to get the replacement core.

 

[crazydane]

I really want to remove the dump bed so that I'll have much better access to redone the fuel lines and remove/clean the fuel tanks. That will also allow me to put the truck on my lift.

But both the top of the lift mechanism:

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And bottom:

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Are welded on. Hard to tell from the above pic, but the brackets bolted to the frame are also welded along the outside edge.

Maybe, just maybe, I can pull these pins to separate the middle of the scissor:

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Next time I pull it out of the shop, I'll raise the bed and have a closer look at the area. The rear hinges are super easy, just remove the 2 large bolts.

But getting the holes lined up to put the scissor back together might be a real pain. They

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I really want to remove the dump bed

Maybe, just maybe, I can pull these pins to separate the middle of the scissor:

I was going to say that you'll need bigger equipment than I've got, but the last picture says that you already do have it.