6.9 Glow Plug System problems

[Cubey]

The first Bugs were something like 40hp, think the one`s I had were 56hp?

36hp actually, 1200cc. VW was able to squeeze 4hp more out of it, while remaining 1200cc, bringing it up to 40hp. 40hp is what's in my 64 baja right now.

it went to 1300cc with a wider engine case (block) and went up from there, as big as 1600cc dual port, at least for Beetles. Buses got bigger ones.

 

[XOLATEM]

Plus a torque converter, so you could remain in gear while stopped and holding the brake pedal.

I had forgotten about that aspect of the system...but I am glad you reminded me....they must have been rare, or, not failed very often because I only saw one in my transmission career...

Neat little stopgap idea...wonder who came up with it...(the actual engineer)

Was it possible that he was a Bavarian...? You know, like of BMW fame..?

Anyway...thanks guys @Old Goat and @Cubey for pitching in on this topic...

Now...somehow we gotta segue back into glow plugs...but dang if I can come up with a decent way to do it at the moment...

Okay...here goes...

So far, once I converted my truck to manual control I have had few problems starting up unless the truck sat a long time in between starts and that is because of a small leakdown...

I ran a hot wire from the fuse panel that is fused and ran it to a universal horn button that I had since the 80's (Standard brand parts) and then did an overlay on the purple wire at the relay...simple, and nothing was cut...

The original system still works and I just override it for a few more seconds and usually The 6.9 fires up...if it doesn't, the I use the 'gas-rag' trick I learned on here and that does it...but I only needed that a few times in the coldest weather...

My glow plug system has the 'run for five seconds and then sporadic clicking' symptoms...I pulled one glow plug to see what it looked like...it was ok...but then ordered a set off of Rock Auto...when I get under the hood to do a major tune-up I will give those a try...

I have held my glow plugs 'on' for as much as 12-15 seconds at times...and...momentarily glowed them while running when the engine was cold...because...I read somewhere that glow plugs turned on while running helped with reducing emissions on the newer Ford diesels...

When I go to replace them...well...we will see if any of them are shorter, burned up, or broken off...or...worse yet...swollen to the point that they will not come out...

So...this is my experience so far with my truck and the glow plugs...

Is this adequate enough to have steered the discussion back to the original topic...?

What do you guys think..? Any input...?

 

[Cubey]

I had forgotten about that aspect of the system...but I am glad you reminded me....they must have been rare, or, not failed very often because I only saw one in my transmission career...

They were fairly popular, and need things synced up properly adjustment wise sometimes. But due to their nature, the clutch lasts a long time. It uses ATF due to the torque converter.

The idea is that for city street driving, you typically never have to shift. You put it in "1" and away you go. It stays in one gear but it's enough. You can shift to "2" by letting off the gas, shifting, and pressing the gas again. Same for downshifting.

It also as a low gear, but that's not for normal driving. It's meant for taking off on steep hills, and nothing else.

Later autostick transmissions even got "Park":

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[Old Goat]

Yep, ya got us off the sand bar and back to smooth sailing.

I have not read about reaming out the GP holes on these IDI engines. Carbon from the combustion gases can pack up around
the GP. Noticed this couple months back when I tore into the top
of the engine replacing the Hyd lifters, Push Rods, up graded to the 7.3 Rockers, Inj Pump and Injectors.

I pulled out the Glow Plugs to take a peek at them, and 3 were tight to remove.
Now on the Mercedes Diesels old 220, 240 and 300D Diesels of the
70`s and 80`s, there is a reamer tool to clean out the holes.
(maybe the later Diesels also, not sure, not involved with them)
Did some Google searching for an IDI Reamer, and cannot find one or even mention of one.

So I found a Drill Bit of the proper size and the "T" handle of my Tap, and twisted it down ea GP hole. The holes that were tight
getting Plugs out, there was resistance working the BIT into the holes. Blew out the holes by blowing air down ea Injector hole.
and it blew out the GP hole. (Use your safety Glasses)

The Drill Bit I used was a 7/32"

On the MB Forums, guys say it can shorten the life of the plug
not keeping the holes open.
Bosch plugs are the holy grail over there and Beru/Motor Craft
and the holy Grail here. Seems Bosch makes some shake in their
boots over here...

This is the 6th winter coming up I have used these MC plugs on manual. And I too when super cold, hit the switch off and on to
get the engine cylinder`s warm enough to smooth out.
Guys new to Diesels scares them when it sounds like the Rods
are trying to come through the Block, just needs heat to smooth out.


Goat

 

[Jim993]

I've had a momentary switch on the steering column for five years. Works great. Avoids having the controller go bad or the relay stick on and ruining the glow plugs.

When I got the truck in December of '98 the water separator was bypassed so I removed it. No issues since and I change the fuel filter every 15,000 miles, never any water in it. This truck is always garaged except when driven. 270,000 miles on the truck, 47,000 on the "new" engine.