Big Bart
Tow&Slow
This thread is how to set timing on your NA or Turbo 6.9 or 7.3 F250 or F350 pick up.
When should you check your timing?
Many underestimate how sensitive these engines are about timing. Not timing these engines correctly can be problematic and potentially cause damage such as -
Snap On MT 257
Snap On MT 480
Snap On MT 1480
Ferret 765
Kent Moore J-33300
Many who have bought used units found they were incomplete or broken so buyer beware.
However there are still some being made today for $180-400 such as –
The Design Technology Inc. (DTI) 3300s
https://tinytach.com/timing-equipment
Bluepoint (Snap On)
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Diesel-Pulse-Adaptor/Diesel-Pulse-Adaptor-(Blue-Point)/MT257B
Gunson
https://www.gunsonshop.com/contents/en-us/p247_Gunson_Diesel_Adaptor_For_Timing_Lights_77089.html
Some like the Gunson and Bluepoint devices are very basic and require the use of a timing light with a timing advance feature. ~+$70 Some like the DTI and Kent Moore are they are far more feature rich. The DTI and Kent Moore units allow you to also use a timing light with advance instead of the damper pickup.
As of 2022 many have had luck buying new military surplus DTI 3300S’s off eBay for $150-250. (These are $400 new from DTI.)
Timing Specs –
Whether you have a 6.9L or 7.3L IDI, whether it is naturally aspirated or turbo, the timing is set at 2,000rpm and set to 8.5* BTDC. Some have suggested they prefer 9.5* BTDC, either works. Engine warm so cold idle and IP advance are off. (No +12v at the connector.)
You use the #1 cylinder injection line to hook the piezo clamp to. #1 cylinder is passenger side and closest to the radiator. You will want to sand off the paint where you plan to use the piezo clamp. You also do not want to put the clamp on a bend. Also put the clamp as close to the injector as possible.
Adjusting the IP
Setting your timing using a pulse adaptor with a standard timing light with advance.
Setting your timing when using the damper (Harmonic balancer) pick up probe on a Snap On, Kent Moore, or DTI unit.
If you want additional help just start a new thread asking for help on how to time your truck with your timing device.
“Need help using my DTI 3300s timing meter on my 6.9 IDI.”
State your need or questions and members will chime in.
When should you check your timing?
- Every 30,000 miles. As your pump and injectors wear, they begin to open sooner generally. (Lower pop pressure.) This changes your engines timing. As an IP wears it may take slightly longer to build up the pop pressure again changing the engine timing.
- After replacing your IP.
- After replacing your injectors.
- After rebuilding your engine.
Many underestimate how sensitive these engines are about timing. Not timing these engines correctly can be problematic and potentially cause damage such as -
- Hard starting
- Smoking
- Over heating
- Glow plug damage
- Poor fuel economy
- Poor power
- Many suggest they can tune these engines by “EAR” but most will not be able to even get within even 2* of the 8.5* TBC setting. Tuning by ear is more tuning by acceleration. Move the pump and drive, move the pump and drive. Perhaps you get within 5* of the setting, likely you can if you have had a good running truck for months before you do the timing. Thus you will know if the truck performs about the same. But those who do it by ear will have no idea at 2,000rpm what their timing is. (Ironically you won’t hear the timing at 2,000rpm, just a very loud diesel engine.) So I highly recommend you buy your own timing device. Simply put, have the right tool for the job. You also can look here in the tech articles for folks willing to help you set your timing with their meter. (Timing Registery.) 95% of diesel shops do not have one (Or one that still works.), so even if you do not plan to set your own timing, buy and bring the meter so the shop who does it can do it right.
Snap On MT 257
Snap On MT 480
Snap On MT 1480
Ferret 765
Kent Moore J-33300
Many who have bought used units found they were incomplete or broken so buyer beware.
However there are still some being made today for $180-400 such as –
The Design Technology Inc. (DTI) 3300s
https://tinytach.com/timing-equipment
Bluepoint (Snap On)
https://shop.snapon.com/product/Diesel-Pulse-Adaptor/Diesel-Pulse-Adaptor-(Blue-Point)/MT257B
Gunson
https://www.gunsonshop.com/contents/en-us/p247_Gunson_Diesel_Adaptor_For_Timing_Lights_77089.html
Some like the Gunson and Bluepoint devices are very basic and require the use of a timing light with a timing advance feature. ~+$70 Some like the DTI and Kent Moore are they are far more feature rich. The DTI and Kent Moore units allow you to also use a timing light with advance instead of the damper pickup.
As of 2022 many have had luck buying new military surplus DTI 3300S’s off eBay for $150-250. (These are $400 new from DTI.)
Timing Specs –
Whether you have a 6.9L or 7.3L IDI, whether it is naturally aspirated or turbo, the timing is set at 2,000rpm and set to 8.5* BTDC. Some have suggested they prefer 9.5* BTDC, either works. Engine warm so cold idle and IP advance are off. (No +12v at the connector.)
You use the #1 cylinder injection line to hook the piezo clamp to. #1 cylinder is passenger side and closest to the radiator. You will want to sand off the paint where you plan to use the piezo clamp. You also do not want to put the clamp on a bend. Also put the clamp as close to the injector as possible.
Adjusting the IP
- You will want to buy an extra box end wrench for the IP bolts and grind it thinner so it can fit past the stud and down over the nut. I believe VAN owners will want a second one to bend it for the nut in the back of the IP. (I have not worked on a Van/E series so no expert.)
- You adjust the IP with the engine off, it has been reported trying to time with the engine on can cause the pump to twist and ruin it. So turn off the engine, loosen the nuts, adjust, tighten the nuts, start the engine, check, turn off the engine, rinse and repeat till you get the timing where you want it.
- Turning the IP towards the passenger fender advances the timing. Turning it towards the drivers fender retards it.
- If you need to adjust the IP more than say about 4* you will want to loosen the injector lines to prevent stressing or breaking them. Remember when you tighten the line nuts do it snug tight not hulk tight. Hulk tight will potentially ruin them. If you go snug tight you can always tighten more if it has a slow leak.
Setting your timing using a pulse adaptor with a standard timing light with advance.
- A pulse adapter will have a steel bar or wire ring to hook your timing light for a gas engine pick up on. Many report not all lights work well with these pulse bars/wire rings. Many find simply flipping the timing light pickup around the other way solved their issue. Many had to try another brand or model of timing light.
- Our trucks do not have timing marks like a gas engine generally does. There are two holes on the timing tab above the damper. The one towards the top right is 20* ATDC. The one to the left and lower is TDC. (The middle of the hole is TDC.) So you have no way to know where is 8.5* BTDC. Thus why you need a light with timing advance so you can set the advance to 8.5* (Or 9.5* if you prefer.) so you can line up the mark on the damper with the center of the lower left hand hole. (TDC) The light is compensating 8.5* so you can set the mark at TDC, but you are actually setting to 8.5* BTDC. You also can adjust your timing light to see how many degrees you are from being correctly timed so you have an idea how much to move the pump. The way to think of this is the pump face is a round circle. Thus that circle has 360* like your damper. If you timing is off 5* you are trying to move that circle on the IP 5*. Also be sure to clean out and mark the grooved line on the damper to make it easier to see.
- Generally, if the timing device has a small flashing light on the face of it or if the RPM meter is working your pulse piezo clamp is working.
- When setting timing with a timing light you do not use a 20* offset. The 20* offset is only used when you use a damper pickup. This is because the damper pickup hole is at 20* ATDC. The 20* offset is to make up for this.
Setting your timing when using the damper (Harmonic balancer) pick up probe on a Snap On, Kent Moore, or DTI unit.
- The damper mark should be cleaned out to insure a better reading.
- Many with DTI units said they had to use a 5/16“ drill bit by hand to clean out the damper timing hole. (Use the top left hole.) Some suggested they filed down the pickup probe to fit the hole.
- You will likely have to play around with the probe height from the damper. Some say 1 business card away from the damper, some say 2-4 business cards away. So plan on adjusting till the timing is registering on your meter.
- You will need to set the device for a 20* offset. This is because the hole is not at TDC, it is 20* after TDC. So this zero’s out the meter’s reading in a sense so you see 8.5* on the meter not 28.5*.
- If your RPM gauge is reading, then your piezo clamp is working.
- DTI makes a special timing gun just for their unit (Plugs into it the meter.), I recommend you pay the $100 and buy it. It is more flexible and easier to use than the damper probe.
- Read your manual, but most units recommend powering up the meter before plugging in the damper probe. They suggest you may kill it if the unit is not powered up. I am guessing somehow it can demagnetize it.
If you want additional help just start a new thread asking for help on how to time your truck with your timing device.
“Need help using my DTI 3300s timing meter on my 6.9 IDI.”
State your need or questions and members will chime in.
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