7.3 idit

Adrenaline73

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Alright guys I’m looking at a 87 zf5 7.3 idi turbo has arp head studs and r&d injectors. And I’m also looking at a 96 12 valve with an auto but bone stock and has 250k on it. I’m pulling 10k to 13k and was wondering if the idi can handle that? 12 valve there asking 6k for and the idi is 3000
 

nitroguy

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With the 5 speed, and a turbo the IDI will handle that weight no problem. (just make sure it has a pyro gauge to monitor temps, either currently or add one for a less than 200 bucks.)

Both seem like great deals, but that of course depends on condition. For those prices and those miles (not knowing much about the cummins, or worse get, the sheet metal wrapper around the cummins of those years) I think either are a viable option.

Inspect them both, watch a cold start of both, and if you end up with the IDI, make sure to check back here often, there's a huge wealth of knowledge to keep the ol girl running in tip top shape.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I'd steer clear of the Cummins just so you don't have to deal with the wrapper. Especially since it has an automatic transmission.
 

Farmer Rock

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I would go for the IDIT,and at that price you better jump on it if it checks out.I agree with IDIBRONCO about the quality of those dodge bodies.It's a cumm-apart in a fall-apart.:rotflmao
I also agree with nitro guy that with a turbo and a zf5,that truck will have no problem pulling that kind of weight.


Rock
 

Adrenaline73

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I'd steer clear of the Cummins just so you don't have to deal with the wrapper. Especially since it has an automatic transmission.

well I went to look the 12 valve the guy back on it when I was an hour and half into the drive saying he promised his wife a Christmas tree....... So I’m 99.99999% sure I’m going with the idi.
 

Adrenaline73

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I would go for the IDIT,and at that price you better jump on it if it checks out.I agree with IDIBRONCO about the quality of those dodge bodies.It's a cumm-apart in a fall-apart.:rotflmao
I also agree with nitro guy that with a turbo and a zf5,that truck will have no problem pulling that kind of weight.


Rock

Any problems I need to look out for when I test drive it? Apparently it’s suppose to only have 1500 on rebuilt 94 factory turbo motor same with clutch and trans
 

Randy Bush

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I have a 93 factory turbo dually that I haul a 15000 lb manlift behind it all the time. Little slow on some hills ,but it still gets the job done.
 

u2slow

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Alright guys I’m looking at a 87 zf5 7.3 idi turbo has arp head studs and r&d injectors. And I’m also looking at a 96 12 valve with an auto but bone stock and has 250k on it. I’m pulling 10k to 13k and was wondering if the idi can handle that? 12 valve there asking 6k for and the idi is 3000

I would want some proper details on the IDI. Factory 87 engine is a 6.9. Factory IDIT is 93-94. I'd not want to find out its a hasty HG job or cracked-head-replacement on a tired 6.9 and some bolt-ons. 5 speed is a definite win. Drive it to check the synchros.

I would't pay $6k for an auto 2ndgen Dodge that's likely poop out its trans within its first few hauls with that 10-13k#. Does the front end (axle/suspension) have any upgrades?

Rust is of concern for both despite the age difference... with that gen dodge, the frame can be as bad as the body. (I've wrecked out a few of each.)

HTH.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Apparently it’s suppose to only have 1500 on rebuilt 94 factory turbo motor same with clutch and trans

I would want some proper details on the IDI. Factory 87 engine is a 6.9. Factory IDIT is 93-94. I'd not want to find out its a hasty HG job or cracked-head-replacement on a tired 6.9 and some bolt-ons.
You can tell a couple of different ways. One, you can check the engine serial number unless someone stupidly ground it off. The second way won't give you the year, but it will tell you whether or not it's a Factory Turbo block. The hole where the oil pressure gauge feed is at is 1/8" NPT on N/A engines. It's 1/4" NPT on Factory Turbo engines. I didn't say that #2 would be easy, but it is a way. Some body may have drilled and tapped a 1/8" NPT hole to a 1/4" NPT, but I doubt it. That would be an AWFUL lot of work for nothing but appearances.
 

Randy Bush

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Couple more things to look for is the valve covers. drivers side should have a hole in it for the CDR ,and right side should have bracket for the glow plug controller. Also IIRC on the front of the block flat area by pump cover should be a stamping that has a T for turbo in it.
 

Adrenaline73

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You can tell a couple of different ways. One, you can check the engine serial number unless someone stupidly ground it off. The second way won't give you the year, but it will tell you whether or not it's a Factory Turbo block. The hole where the oil pressure gauge feed is at is 1/8" NPT on N/A engines. It's 1/4" NPT on Factory Turbo engines. I didn't say that #2 would be easy, but it is a way. Some body may have drilled and tapped a 1/8" NPT hole to a 1/4" NPT, but I doubt it. That would be an AWFUL lot of work for nothing but appearances.

alright so went looked at it not a bad pickup needs some works. Windshield has a crack in it body needs some work. But it hard starts and blows smoke that smells like raw diesel and it sounds like a powerstroke? What would cause it to smoke and sound like that?
 

Farmer Rock

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alright so went looked at it not a bad pickup needs some works. Windshield has a crack in it body needs some work. But it hard starts and blows smoke that smells like raw diesel and it sounds like a powerstroke? What would cause it to smoke and sound like that?
Sounds like GPs to me.They sound real rough when they are cold started if that's what you are referring to.Every truck I have ever bought,came with a complimentary cracked windshield,so to me that's part of the game.


Rock
 

Adrenaline73

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Sounds like GPs to me.They sound real rough when they are cold started if that's what you are referring to.Every truck I have ever bought,came with a complimentary cracked windshield,so to me that's part of the game.


Rock
I’m going to pick it up tomorrow for 3k doesn’t seem to bad of a deal he has all the paper work for the motor and trans be rebuild. It’s about 3k just for the motor and trans rebuild. I did check and it’s a factory turbo motor.
 

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