1989 F-250 7.3 Project

hacked89

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Today was a good day in the trucks life. It was the first drive that it did not need a towtruck or roadside repairs since I owned it.

We had some winter weather in PA and I drove it to work 15 minutes away and back.

Brakes work great with the new setup.

Order of next items:
- Rip most of the wiring out of the truck and rewire
- replace fan clutch
- I want to remove both of the electric vacuum pumps on the truck and go back to the belt driven vacuum pump. The reason I believe it doesn't have the factory pump is because the truck has a mechman 240 alternator and I believe theres some issue with the pulley and belt that alternator uses versus factor? I've only seen my IDI in person and others just from forums images.
Anyone else running mechman and the stock vacuum pump?
-theres atleast two places it leaks oil that are annoying. The first is when I said I naively went to check the oil when I bought it and the dipstick tube came out. I RTVd it but i dont check the oil because it's so touchy. How do I restore the actual factor dipstick function? I would pull the motor to fix this if I have to.
- when i did the first oil change, it was really tough unscrewing the oil filter and I found out why because it's really tough to screw in and now it has a slight drip. Is what it screws into replaceable if I pull the motor?
- I'm going to replace the IP, fuel filter, lift pump, injectors, glowplugs, and buy the GP harness from Wes. I already have push button glow plugs with a harness the PO wired.
The truck has over 300k on it and supposedly 110k on the donor motor. It's harder to start than it should be and real hard to start in the cold weather. Once I get it going theres some white ish smoke for the first couple minutes then zero smoke when driving or idling after that.
The PO said they replaced everything but the IP, and I think the IP is tired and retarded causing the symptoms. I dont know what brand was used to replace anything else for certain so I'll start fresh.
-the transmission leaks fluid a bit have to track that down
- when I do the wiring I'm also pulling the interior out and welding in new floors, rockers, and cab corners. I also need to find a nice replacement interior.
Any suggestions of interiors you guys like from newer models that's easier to find pristine? I do like the bench seats.



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hacked89

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I have these mirrors brand new in box if anyone from the community wants them they are yours.
I originally bought them for my truck and then swapped doors which use a wider bracket.
You'll have to meet me somewhere in SE PA.
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chris becker

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I would take them off your hands but I live in Portland Oregon. Would you ship them?need them for my 1993 Crew Cab. Mine are really rusty.

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hacked89

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Sorry about the double pics. My phone posted them screwy. Still interested in the mirrors though.
I'm already giving them away brand new for free I'm not going to ship them brotha.
By the way, just eyeballing your trucks mirrors, you're going to want to measure from center bolt to bolt where they attached. Your truck looks like the western swings that mine has and these won't fit anyway.
If you measure though, I can tell you which one to get from amazon.

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hacked89

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Lining up some of my part purchasing.
I've researched, if you guys can confirm this all is accurate.
The ZF5's slave cylinder is external and has its own reservoir not tied to the brake reservoir correct?

For the discussion I'm going to call:
87-91 brick nose
92-97 OBS

1. The ZF5 I can take from any brick nose or OBS and it will bolt up

2. The pedal assembly I need from a brick nose preferably a year matching the truck

3. The ZF5 obviously needs to be from a 4wd if its 4wd, and I need to take the linkage from the donor for the transfer case. Should i also take the transfer case or it's fine for the factor transfer case the c6 is attached to?

4. I'm swapping the flatbed for a bed, the bed can come from either brick or obs and it will bolt up




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IDIBRONCO

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Pretty much yes overall. The bed will bolt up, but the body lines will be different (I think). You can use your C6 transfer case, but if you can get an extra for cheap, get it. It may come in handy some day. Any brick nose pedal assembly should work.
 

hacked89

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Pretty much yes overall. The bed will bolt up, but the body lines will be different (I think). You can use your C6 transfer case, but if you can get an extra for cheap, get it. It may come in handy some day. Any brick nose pedal assembly should work.
Cool

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hacked89

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I'm not moving this stuff to my new garage. If anyone wants this it's free and getting scrapped in 5 days.

2 doors - 1 in decent shape one with damage
They have aftermarket speakers in them

2 fenders - bad shape

Almost brand new 2015-2017 mustang parts
-catback exhaust
-swaybars
-struts
-stock shifter and linkage
-shocks

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hacked89

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Got the loot.
I know I dont need to explain to you guys what all this is.
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franklin2

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Just happened onto your post above from Feb. You asked

when i did the first oil change, it was really tough unscrewing the oil filter and I found out why because it's really tough to screw in and now it has a slight drip. Is what it screws into replaceable if I pull the motor?

I have heard from several other people and I have to do it myself, to keep this large oil filter from leaking you have to cinch it up tight when you install it to keep it from leaking. Unlike most other cars and trucks where you hand tighten 3/4 -1 turn after the gasket touches, on these you have to tighten it pretty tight with the wrench during installation. And yes it's tough to get off during a oil change.
 

hacked89

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Just happened onto your post above from Feb. You asked



I have heard from several other people and I have to do it myself, to keep this large oil filter from leaking you have to cinch it up tight when you install it to keep it from leaking. Unlike most other cars and trucks where you hand tighten 3/4 -1 turn after the gasket touches, on these you have to tighten it pretty tight with the wrench during installation. And yes it's tough to get off during a oil change.
Thanks man. Good to know it's "normal". First vehicle like you mentioned ive worked on that required that degree of torque on the oil filter.

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hacked89

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Been doing house work the last two weeks.
Tonight i put her on the stand to free up my cherry picker to get the flatbed off over the weekend.
Also, the reason the oil dipstick setup was odd on my current motor is because it didnt come with thst bracket around the tube in my second picture. This is why i couldnt check the oil without rippin the tube out or having to hold it. Third pic, thats where the dipstick tube goes into an adapter which sits in the motor. This is tough to see when RTVin it when in the truck, and i looked a bunch for a clear picture while doing mine.
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hacked89

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Starting to strip her.
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hacked89

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Chugging along in the tear down. A bunch of time gets wasted on boring stuff picture wise. Like numerous bolts I had to cut the heads off that will need to be drilled out in the future. And one seatbelt bolt I had a 1200 ft lb impact on and still wouldn't budge and it smoked the bolt so I had to surgically cut it. Also broke 2 torx with a breaker bar on the same thing.

The rear seat all 4 bolts are are rusted out but can't get to them with a grinder, planning how to get them.

Also, noticed my front seat wasn't from this truck when I removed it because I saw the original seat studs which weren't used.
Anyone know what vehicle the seat is from?
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