"93 7.3 N/A need advice no turn over

[Jason1377]

New batteries cca is 850 ones a interstate once a super Maxx from advanced Auto, new lug needed starter brand new tested good new fuel filter/oil changed. Truck will try to turn over but just a slow crawl then nothing goes back to the clicking to heat up the Gp's which are a yr/5k miles old alternator has not been checked but is only a yr old.

Had me stumped my lil bro said it was a wire issue only wires I have not changed was all battery cables from the battery to frame n.such gp controller is a yr old could that me an issue of it not turning over, just trying to avoid.getting another rig.

 

[chillman88]

Barring a SEVERE mechanical issue batteries, wires, or starter are all it could be. Pull the grounds off and clean them up, inspect the wires.

Usually testing a starter just means it spins. I'm betting it's a bad starter. It still spins but doesn't have the torque to spin the engine over. If the cables look good, have them test the batteries again. If they test fine have them warranty out the starter.

 

[riphip]

Replace that 'bad battery lug" and see how it does. You may have burnt up that new starter already

 

[Jason1377]

I missed typed about my lugs all was replaced I'll warrenty the starter out n recheck all wires. Both batteries just replaced today to eliminate that both was under a 4 yr replacement warranty.

Thanks for to help I'll keep all updated

 

[reset2]

Been working through some starter issues myself. The starter that was in my truck it turned at a good speed compared to the original starter that was spinning at two thirds speed (guess) replaced last year. I had another glow plug issue (2 bad) I cranked for two or three cycles then the starter came crashing to a nasty sounding grind. Dissembled starter found the motor output bearing was toast. In my haste to get going I hobbled together three donor starters to get one that worked. To my typical luck the motor of the original starter and a different solenoid I was back on the road. Now the starter works but back at two thirds speed.
The reason for all this typing is my son had put a 6 liter starter on his 97 power-stroke and it worked. Has anyone heard of this. I'm thinking that it has a better gear reduction. Thoughts?

 

[chillman88]

The reason for all this typing is my son had put a 6 liter starter on his 97 power-stroke and it worked. Has anyone heard of this. I'm thinking that it has a better gear reduction. Thoughts?

All I know is that several of them mount the same. Our IDI uses an SAE starter pattern although I don't remember which number.... There's a lot of interchange thanks to that.

 

[Jason1377]

Warrantied the starter n batteries n still no turn over fuel is good all the way to the fuel filter, after 4 days of warm/fridge weather my batteries read low bought a jumper from Walmart was over $100 said it was 1k cc for jumping still nada I'm clueless only thing not changed are glow plugs but they only 5 k miles.

The wait to light doesn't come on but it does cycle dash/dome light flickers each click as well.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Warrantied the starter n batteries n still no turn over fuel is good all the way to the fuel filter, after 4 days of warm/fridge weather my batteries read low bought a jumper from Walmart was over $100 said it was 1k cc for jumping still nada I'm clueless only thing not changed are glow plugs but they only 5 k miles.

The wait to light doesn't come on but it does cycle dash/dome light flickers each click as well.

Your glow plugs are a separate system from the starting system, so that issue can be worried about later.

As @chillman88 said, it's only wiring, starter, or batteries. That's all the parts involved if you're getting some turn but it just crawls. I would do a drop voltage test on the starter in place. Or replace the wire going to the starter-- since the batteries are new and the starter is new it can really only be the wire. Assuming of course you charged the batteries.

That said starters can be bad out of the box, it's more rare but batteries too-- unhook the drivers positive clamp and test both batteries separately. A bad one will drag down the other(rare with new batteries, but hey testing takes about 3 mins)

 

[franklin2]

As you are cranking, look for hot connections and smoke. The places to look are at the starter area, the battery area and the ground area on each side of the front of the block. Any heat or smoke is a sign of high resistance/bad connection.

I had a tough one once, so bad that the truck changed hands several times because it was turning over slow and hard to start. I found out the surface where the starter bolted on was corroded and interfering with the starter grounding. Everyone kept bolting good starters onto a corroded adapter/bellhousing. Wire brushing this surface fixed it.

 

[Jason1377]

I'm in the process of changing all wires I can already did positive battery cable negative is good what size gauge is red starter wire from the relay on the fender I've tried google n looking on the forum but sadly no results.

Going to change out glow plugs to make sure thats not an issue parts stores want $115 for a set of motor craft have no issue with price but waiting two days for delivery is nuts Ill update progress thnx all

 

[franklin2]

Glowplugs have nothing to do with cranking speed. If the starter is not whipping the engine over it will never start unless you give it a shot of ether with the glowplugs disconnected. The cylinders need heat to fire, there are no sparkplugs. It can't generate enough heat to fire if it's cranking too slow, even with working glowplugs.

Plugging in the block heater will help. But the block heater and ether are just bandaids to get it going. If the starter whips the engine over like it should, and all the glowplugs are working, it should start without any other aids.

 

[Jake60]

Did you clean the frame to battery ground lugs and frame to block? i mean like with a grinder and back together tight

 

[Bio-Bradley]

Truck will try to turn over but just a slow crawl

I had a similar issue with the truck not wanting to turn over and turning slowing with the batteries testing good and all accessories working and bright lights. This helped me identify that is was probably a wiring issue somewhere between the batteries and the starter versus and a bad alternator or battery. I knew it wasn't the starter because I could here the starter working. I eventually figured out that the positive wire from the passenger battery positive post to the starter relay was no longer carrying the current well. I replaced it and solved my problem. Good luck!

 

[Thewespaul]

As said above, put away the wallet and get out a multi meter

 

[Jason1377]

As said above, put away the wallet and get out a multi meter

Did you clean the frame to battery ground lugs and frame to block? i mean like with a grinder and back together tight

@Jake60 no grinder didn't go that far.

@Thewespaul yessir for a cheap test light the local harbor freight was out of the multi meter that I've seen suggested