Best order to install factory turbo parts?

[DrCharles]

Now that I have all the parts, I'm wondering what the easiest installation sequence is for a factory turbo setup on my '93. I know what part goes where, but not the simplest way to put it all together.

I've read that the slip joint can be difficult, likewise the band clamp on the downpipe once the elbow and turbo are in place.

For example: should I put the wye on the manifold first, or on the turbo elbow? Connect the cross pipe to the wye first? I'd rather not re-invent the wheel while taking things back off that I just put on...

Thanks for any helpful hints!

 

[Thewespaul]

This is how I do it...

Install y pipe loosely, install crossover finger tight. Install oil drain, intake hat, downpipe elbow and up pipe on turbo. Install the whole assembly together, focusing on getting the y pipe started in place, then oil drain in the valley. When I install the intake hat I rotate it up counter clockwise out of the way, once you have the up pipe and oil drain mostly in place, twist the intake hat clockwise onto the intake making sure it’s centered and the oil drain is centered in the valley hole. Bolt the oil drain to the intake manifold then go underneath and tighten up the exhaust. Snug down the intake hat last.

Some tips, make sure your slip fit is super clean and give it a light coating of copper rtv. You can use it on the other exhaust connections as well if you don’t feel like having to fix boost leaks down the road. The oil drain can be a ****** to get lined up with the holes in the intake manifold, you can widen the holes with a 3/8” bit for much easier installation by yourself. I like to install a 7/8” o ring on the top of the neck of the oil drain so it has some slight pressure against the grommet. For the downpipe use one of mine for it to fit easy, the banks can be hard to line up by yourself and get the clamp on, if you’re forced to do this then tighten the bottom on the downpipe up first where it connects to the rest of the exhaust but leave it just loose enough that you can rotate it a bit by hand. Then go up top and get the clamp on and tightened, then tighten the rest of the exhaust. That will help prevent rattles from the downpipe being bound up against the firewall.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

My tip is to remove the studs from the manifold before you try to install the Y pipe. Then hook it to the manifold with bolts. Try it once with the studs in and you'll thank me for this one. By the way, it goes onto both the turbo and manifold at the same time. With the studs in the manifold you have to install it in the turbo and the work it over the studs. That can be a HUGE pain.

 

[DrCharles]

Perfect, thanks! Just what I needed.

I only have the Banks downpipe though. My original Y-pipe is welded to a non-original 3" exhaust system, so I will make a cut as far forward on the 3" as possible. Then rig a flex pipe so I can get it to the muffler shop who can make a proper connection to the downpipe.

I'll also have to massage the firewall seam, right? Will it be obvious which section of the lip needs to be bent flat?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I'll also have to massage the firewall seam, right? Will it be obvious which section of the lip needs to be bent flat?

It seems like some truck needed this, some didn't. it was probably due to the condition of the body mounts. It will certainly make the install easier though. Yes, it will be apparent while you're trying to install the exhaust parts.

 

[DrCharles]

Is it possible to clamp the downpipe to the elbow first, and then work the whole turbo/downpipe assembly into place? Or not worth the effort trying to get the downpipe past everything...

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Assuming that your downpipe is one piece, then no you can't do it. It's been since at least 2001, but from what I can remember, I would slip the oil drain into place first, then bolt the turbo onto it, next install the hat onto the turbo. After all of this, I would make sure that the hat fits onto the intake and rock the whole thing into place so that I could install the bolts into the back of the intake through the oil drain. I would then double check the hat to intake fit and tighten the bolts through the drain and finally the hat bolt. Then I would install the Y pipe loosely. Next would come the downpipe. Sometimes four letter words were required for proper installation of the clamp. Install the crossover pipe and hook the exhaust to the down pipe again loosely. Using my method of no manifold studs, I'd hold the Y pipe up in the turbo as far as I could get it and tighten the bolts in the manifold. Next the crossover pipe. Lastly tighten the clamp on the downpipe. Finish the install with the oil feed line, oil pressure sending unit wire, the air intake pieces, and whatever else I may have forgotten to mention. I'm not trying to sound negative, but I think that you're trying to overthink this install. Just don't tighten anything over hand tight before you're sure that it's in right and you'll be fine.

 

[DrCharles]

Overthinking is my middle name I always do as much homework as possible before attempting any new-to-me job, so as not to waste time and energy (and four letter words) Appreciate the help.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I don't think that you can install the Y pipe after you install the downpipe either. And like I said, it's been A LOT of years since I've touched a Factory Turbo so my facts/descriptions may be off.

 

[pelky350]

I installed my banks pipe with everything in place it wasn’t too bad, little easier with someone helping though from under the truck. The seam on the fire wall I did after turbo installed and before down pipe instal it’s a lot easier to see where you need to do it that way at least for me.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I'd second that one!

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Overthinking is my middle name I always do as much homework as possible before attempting any new-to-me job, so as not to waste time and energy (and four letter words) Appreciate the help.

Well you're a wiser man that I am concerning the turbo install... took me and a buddy at least 5 hours and we didn't even finish. I was pretty pissed since nobody mentions how finicky the whole setup is or that you can't lock anything down until it's all in place(LIKE THE BLEEPING TURBO/INTAKE HAT SITUATION).

Anywho I ended up locking down like 4 things that all needed to be loosened again before the next thing could actually line up...so annoying.

 

[DrCharles]

Your story is exactly why I ask lots of questions before diving in, wrench in hand...

This kind of project is so much easier with the Internet... when I was building engines and car/truck projects back in the early 80's, books, car magazines and word-of-mouth at the speed shop was about it!

Got home from a trip this week and my squeaky-clean airbox (and a really dirty K&N filter) was waiting for me. Also the Banks downpipe. And the bolt kit, seal kit and band clamp from Typ4. Now if the weather would stop freezing, sleeting and just plain raining...

 

[Runningaford]

Just my 2 cents, If installing a turbo, plan on doing return lines(if old), glow plugs(if old), and might as well throw in a grounded wire from the glow plug controller to a push button inside the cab for manual glow plug control. It shouldn't add too much work for the switch, as I'd assume you're going with a pyro, and boost gauge, or should.

 

[DrCharles]

I've only had the truck for about a year and a half, but one of the first things I did was replace the injector cap o-rings (it had a recent return line kit that was poorly installed), also eight new Motorcraft ZD-9 glow plugs to replace the Autolites(!) of which at least three were burned out.

My GP controller works as designed so I'm just going to relocate it, not eliminate it.

Yes, I will put a pyro and boost gauge on, certainly before I turn up the pump. Like I said, I've been studying the issue carefully