Best order to install factory turbo parts?

The_Josh_Bear

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oh well, guess I'm out $10 then ;) Is the snout of the CDR the same 1" diameter as the nipple on the airbox? I must be missing something since I don't see why that piece (and grommet) would be needed at all... :dunno
Sounds like what you're missing is the bracket that has the 1" tube outlet that the hose actually goes on to. The CDR on that side has nothing to clamp to, it's just a tiny lip. So because those two pieces of metal can't make an air tight connection, they sammich a grommet in the middle and call it a day.

Edit: Wes beat me again...
 

DrCharles

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Of course, now that it's been explained, it's obvious :D especially with the blind O-ring area on the turbo pedestal. I was thinking about the other end of the CDR (which of course goes into the valve cover grommet!)

I'll start making that piece, while I wait for better (or at least warmer!) weather to do the turbo install. Thanks guys.
 

DrCharles

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Turbo is in (gory details in the "So what did you do with your truck" thread)! Now I'm wondering whether to briefly test-run the engine with or without the airbox... it would be easy to spot a major external oil leak and shut it down, also to block off the turbo inlet if there's an (internal) seal leak leading to a runaway. :eek:
On the other hand, any little particle that might fly into the compressor wheel is likely to destroy it, and I could still cover the intake snout of the airbox quickly.

What do you think? I'm inclined to go the safe route and put the airbox on.
 

IDIBRONCO

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If you just had this part of your engine open, there shouldn't be anything that can fly into the turbo and destroy it. My opinion is to go ahead without the air box, but the choice is yours to make.
 
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