Best order to install factory turbo parts?

[DrCharles]

Now I have a big pile of parts, but it's 36 and overcast, and I don't feel like lying under the truck wrestling exhaust pipes! definitely not today, anyway

I noticed that the factory procedure is to put the pedestal on the engine, then bolt the turbo to the pedestal. A couple of posters have also suggested that, whereas Wes recommends making up the whole turbo assembly and then putting it on the engine... any last words of wisdom?

 

[Thewespaul]

I like to assemble it on the bench and drop it in because you can use a torque wrench on most the hardware, it can be pretty difficult to get some of the turbo flange bolts tight with the turbo in place because of the location of the firewall and injection lines. Make sure and use anti seize on the exhaust bolts

 

[DrCharles]

Working on the turbo assembly, putting in new o-rings and gaskets. I found that the exhaust elbow/wastegate was missing several of its bolts and one (that I can't get a socket or box-end wrench on) will not come out. No idea what the seller may have been trying to do... I may just leave the elbow attached, since the wastegate moves freely.

The remaining bolt that came with it only has about four threads engaged in the turbine housing. Is this normal? The holes are tapped a fair bit deeper than that (one is a through-hole), I chased them with the proper undersize tool. Do I use longer bolts (they are M8x1.25 pitch).

Should there be lockwashers? I seem to recall once reading something about the hot side making them lose tension from the heat so it's better not to use them at all.

Thanks!

Edit: Also I am trying to find the torque specs for all the fasteners on the turbo itself... thx.

 

[DrCharles]

I had a box of M8 bolts that were 5mm too long, so I made them shorter. I love my Lang (USA made) rethreading set Put it together without lock washers. Replaced all the o-rings and gaskets. It was really fun separating a 25-year-old gasket from the oil supply manifold. The turbo shaft spins without any ugly noises, no noticeable axial play, crossing my fingers it doesn't need a rebuild kit (or complete cartridge) yet.

One stud was missing entirely from the turbo's up-pipe flange. Since it's a through hole I just used a handy 3/8" Grade 8 bolt and flat washer.

Now another question - I am assuming that I will not be able to remove the studs from the right-hand exhaust manifold (to use them on the Y). With my luck one or both will either be stuck, or worse yet, break off in the manifold.

Since the Typ4 bolt kit comes with two 7/16" bolts labeled for mounting the Y to the manifold, can't I just leave the studs in the manifold and use the bolts on the crossover pipe-to-Y joint instead? Seems like it should go together either way...

Or I could buy a few of these from McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/91563a177
Thoughts?

 

[sjwelds]

The flange on the Y will hit the hex on the studs and not allow the Y to seat on the manifold. They gotta come out.

 

[Thewespaul]

Turbo flange bolts are 36 ft lbs. the bolts in the back of the intake are 18 ft lbs as well as the intake hat. Exhaust bolts are 35 ft lbs.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Now another question - I am assuming that I will not be able to remove the studs from the right-hand exhaust manifold (to use them on the Y). With my luck one or both will either be stuck, or worse yet, break off in the manifold.

Use a good 1/2" impact and a deep 9/16" impact socket. I've never had one break and they're all come out. I had an old timer helping me with a 302 build once. He thought that one of the exhaust manifolds that he had was junk since it had a broken off stud in it. he told me that I could have it if I wanted it. I brought my impact and socket home from work. I hooked it up to his air compressor and listened to him tell me that they never come out eight before I zipped the stud out easily. Then I reached in my pocket, pulled out another stud, Put it in the manifold and put the manifold on my engine. I enjoyed seeing his jaw drop when the stud came out so easy.

 

[DrCharles]

I'll have to re-arrange my return lines to move the hose that crosses the valley (too close to the turbo), and move the GP controller too. I've read several threads on relocating the GPC for turbo installs.

It could go in the stock location on the factory turbo right-hand valve cover, which I don't have. I'm tempted to spot-weld a bracket to the cover without removing it... but I know better.

Another place would be on the firewall near its original spot (the wires may not be long enough to just move it, though, and if not I'd rather put it somewhere more accessible anyway).

Or on the right inner fender - I've already made a bracket to hold the Facet pump there. The engine wiring harness would have to be completely reorganized.

Thoughts?

Edit: this looks like a neat idea too
http://www.idiperformance.com/store/p52/Glow_Plug_Controller_Relocation_Bracket.html

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I think you're right about the wires not being long enough to just move to the firewall. Besides, if you did that, you will still have wires running underneath the turbo. I've seen insulation (like a heat blanket) wrapped around the wires, but I didn't really think that it was that good of an idea.

 

[Thewespaul]

I really like to mount them on the fender next to the starter relay. It makes the wires a lot shorter, and I like to install a push button override for the controller right there next to the relay. Makes it nice if you need to start the truck from the engine bay or trouble shooting glow plug issues, you can just reach over and glow the plugs by hand.

 

[DrCharles]

I agree. The high-current wires will be shorter if it's on the right side of the engine. I ordered the bracket (link in my previous post). For $30 shipped, I didn't feel like spending an hour or two measuring for holes and making it!

 

[lakesurfer]

Really glad this question was asked and answered. Will be reinstalling my factory turbo soon.

 

[DrCharles]

Another question... what is everyone using for the hose from the CDR (on the left valve cover) to the factory airbox?

That hose is apparently NLA from Ford and a used one, if it could even be found, would be hopelessly hardened or cracked.

Edit: Silicone is apparently not a good idea with oil vapors. This might work though.
https://www.mcmaster.com/5235k61

 

[DrCharles]

Does anyone have pictures of the back side of the engine (showing the turbo piping) with a Banks downpipe in place? The picture in the factory manual turbo supplement from the back side is quite clear but it doesn't have the (original) downpipe installed at all. I've looked at lots of online pics but most all of them are of the top...

I intend to drill/tap the wye casting for the pyro probe while everything's apart, rather than drill one manifold or weld a bung into the cross pipe. I also don't want to mock it all up and have to take it apart again! But I don't know where exactly the downpipe passes close to the wye, so I can locate the hole in an unobstructed area.

 

[Thewespaul]

Here’s a picture of one of my downpipe installed on a factory turbo engine. My downpipe hugs the engine a bit closer than the banks downpipe, but it should give you some reference.

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