ZF5 swap issues.

[NMB2]

well, I have the entire C6 to ZF5 swap completed.... only one issue. I cant get the clutch to fully disengage. I am 99% sure the slave is pushing out as far as it can, I even modified my pedal assembly to get more throw out of it and gained 1/2" more than what i started with. I can get it into gear, but its hard. With the motor off and d-shaft disconnected, clutch in and try to spin the yoke through the floor is very difficult.

I got this flywheel set:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130417805266&viewitem=

this slave:

http://www.amazon.com/Coni-Seal-SC103476-Slave-Cylinder/dp/B000C0FEH2

this master:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...lterByKeyWord=clutch+master&fromString=search


Transmission came from a 97 PSD.

do you see any issues?

 

[NMB2]

after crossing numbers on autozone and rock-auto. the slave and master are all the same number from 88 - 97, with the same Bore sizes.

the clutch fork slides over the plastic behind the throwout bearing correct? is there anything else in there that I could be missing?

edit: Just a thought. Is the clutch fork on 90ish ZF... different than that in the 97 PSD? my clutch fork section coming out of the trans is nearly flat. If it was bent, towards the clutch slave, that would make more throw. Unless anyone has another good idea, I may cut and turn it.

 

[BigRigTech]

Are you sure the clutch disc is not in backwards?....Just throwing it out there as I've seen it done a few times on big rigs...Most times you can get it bolted up but have release issues when you try to drive it.

 

[NMB2]

Are you sure the clutch disc is not in backwards?....Just throwing it out there as I've seen it done a few times on big rigs...Most times you can get it bolted up but have release issues when you try to drive it.

Pretty sure on this truck its not possible to put it in backwards. Clutch disc wont lay flat on flywheel if its in backwards, but yes Im sure I put it in the right way.

EDIT:

here is a picture.

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see, it will only go together one way.

 

[BigRigTech]

Ok, I just wanted to be sure....Are you sure the slave is totally bled out? I always bleed it with it mounted to the trans, dismount it and let the slave fill with fluid causing the rod to fully extend and then fight it back on to the trans without touching the bleeder screw...Worked for me on both of my trucks.

 

[NMB2]

positive. I just went out and unbolted the inspection cover. Had a buddy push clutch in and I physically can see the pressure plate completely letting up off of the clutch disc. I can then with very little resistance... spin the clutch disc with a single finger.

Then.. start the truck, and I still have alot of resistance when trying to put it into gear. You can see the yoke "bump" when I do it.


EDIT: and while the truck is in gear idling with the clutch in.. I can hear the fresh clutch rubbing on flywheel or pressure plate... not sure which.

I wonder if its possible the clutch disc is slightly too thick.

 

[BigRigTech]

I don't know what to tell ya, sounds like something is not right but what? Did the disc slide nice and free on the trans input shaft? What kind of pilot bearing did you use? If your input shaft is turning because the pilot bearing is stuck/binding then it will be hard to get in gear. I recently put a clutch in a 2003 F550 at work for that reason - the pilot bearing took a dump and it was a ***** to shift because of it.

 

[Brimmstone]

Sounds like a damaged pilot bearing. Went through hell finding that in my Bronco.

 

[Brimmstone]

If it's a bronze bushing like I've seen in a few trucks they deform and cause that issue really easy.

 

[NMB2]

its a brand new roller bearing.

here is my thought on it. I wasnt too overly impressed with the new flywheel. The friction surface was more of a cast finish than a machined finish, semi-rough. I think that because of this it is causing enough drag to make it a ***** to get into gear. I think that after using it for a little bit it will glaze the flywheel and get rid of this issue. The only other possibility is the pilot bearing but I am almost positive that is not the issue.

 

[franklin2]

I agree with you, take it for a short test drive. Besides your theory, any little bit of air left in the clutch system hydraulics will work it's way out when driving down the road, giving you even more clearance in the clutch when the pedal is pushed.

 

[NMB2]

my thoughts exactly.. thanks man.

 

[65sixbanger]

Ya just drive it, whatever it is it will probably fix itself. It cant be anything major.

 

[Agnem]

You should verify the throw spec against what is in the manual. There is a specific distance the clutch fork should move - measured with a ruler. Sorry I don't have the number to give you, but I'd start with that. Do you have the semi-translucent red clutch line, or the black one? Air can get trapped in the hose and with the black ones you can't see it. you can see it with a red one.