krawlr
Yup, that's me
towcat said:
I did some digging on this a while back. Look on the hose for 30R6 or 30R7. The older 30R6 is only OK for gas, the 30R7 has the synthetic inner lining that will hold up to Diesel and bio.
WVO burning in a 7.3 (lotta dang photos, dialup beware)
- Thread starter DeepRoots
- Start date
I did some digging on this a while back. Look on the hose for 30R6 or 30R7. The older 30R6 is only OK for gas, the 30R7 has the synthetic inner lining that will hold up to Diesel and bio.
ttman4
Last Nite's Dream..
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2005
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I still want a sticky.....
I've got my original Factory fuel filter now, but am fixing to change the head out & go to the older style Cummings filter... there are 3-4 filters available that are round $5 thru $12...the $12 one(longer) is supposed to be an emulsified water seperator.
I got tired of $25plus for new 7.3 filter, & Cummings is as fine or finer micron than the 12 micron factory filter.
I also got 2 other "Goldenrod" or something....farm filters (cheap) plus a Cat watertrap screen filter (this'n catches cockroaches & fleas...does darn good catching water too!) mounted down under on the frame, got heater hose RedNeck rigged up round ALL my filters, (I got close to 100" total of red heaterhose running here & there on this thing plus enough insulation to open a store....probably overweight)...got bunch other Redneck hoaky crapp on here too!
(If I ever run over a dog & it starts ripping & trashing stuff under there, this thing will run & dribble green water for a week!!)
Starting to think about a 1/4"-3/8" bellypan like is under my Caterpillar.....(Tec Stickie???? Call it"IDI BellyPan How To")
One thing my slow, one tracked mind has figured out, when I flip over to "purge" my veggie out of filters etc, I think diesel only runs & flushes out the "top"portion of the filters....mostly. However, if 'ya run it long enough before getting home to shut down, then I think filters would probably fuesh out totally. Just my thoughts on that part.
Soon as I get time I'll post some filter & head#'s if anyone interested, pic's too.
I'm running veggie in my factory rear tank....which happens to now be about 31-33gal cap including filler neck hose! (last fall, by totally innocent,dumb, stupid, unaware accident, I shot the air to it & made a bloated, roundish, really nice looking fuel tank outa my oringinal square sided "cubie' looking factory tank. Works too.
I should try to find that link when I get time.
(I still think I should have got a "STICKY" for that'n, maybe draw some royalty's.... Edited by the moderators, of course!!)
How many OB'ers are currently reg. here on OB???.....about a gillizion? I don't know if I should post this little secret or not....EVERY reg. OB'er here on this board probably will laugh at me, laugh twice (X2)....wound my spirits or something.
But anyway, couple year ago I needed bunch of fuel line. Being the tightwad I am, & not liking parts store prices, I happened to be in local Farm Supply store. There was the orange 1/4" &3/8" bulk air hose, the plastic, stiffer kind....the kind that twists & kinks& aggravates the living he** outta you! The kind I totally normally despise, But costing about 1/4th per/ft what fuel hose cost. It said "Oil Resistant" on it....soooo, I got to thinking!!
I've had orange colored fuel lines on my rig for about 2 yr now....so far....
There may be orange colored stuff in my IP, injectors, cioated on the pistons....but I haven't seen any Orange colored exhaust smoke out the tailpipe yet
(would this be worth a Tec Sticky????)
Thought I'd swing in here a little on this one. Been really busy lately, tied up, & kinda getting over couple little minor Dr. procedures....Doctors have to eat too, so I did my civic duty & gave 'em some $$$$
I've got my original Factory fuel filter now, but am fixing to change the head out & go to the older style Cummings filter... there are 3-4 filters available that are round $5 thru $12...the $12 one(longer) is supposed to be an emulsified water seperator.
I got tired of $25plus for new 7.3 filter, & Cummings is as fine or finer micron than the 12 micron factory filter.
I also got 2 other "Goldenrod" or something....farm filters (cheap) plus a Cat watertrap screen filter (this'n catches cockroaches & fleas...does darn good catching water too!) mounted down under on the frame, got heater hose RedNeck rigged up round ALL my filters, (I got close to 100" total of red heaterhose running here & there on this thing plus enough insulation to open a store....probably overweight)...got bunch other Redneck hoaky crapp on here too!
(If I ever run over a dog & it starts ripping & trashing stuff under there, this thing will run & dribble green water for a week!!)
Starting to think about a 1/4"-3/8" bellypan like is under my Caterpillar.....(Tec Stickie???? Call it"IDI BellyPan How To")
One thing my slow, one tracked mind has figured out, when I flip over to "purge" my veggie out of filters etc, I think diesel only runs & flushes out the "top"portion of the filters....mostly. However, if 'ya run it long enough before getting home to shut down, then I think filters would probably fuesh out totally. Just my thoughts on that part.
Soon as I get time I'll post some filter & head#'s if anyone interested, pic's too.
I'm running veggie in my factory rear tank....which happens to now be about 31-33gal cap including filler neck hose! (last fall, by totally innocent,dumb, stupid, unaware accident, I shot the air to it & made a bloated, roundish, really nice looking fuel tank outa my oringinal square sided "cubie' looking factory tank. Works too.
I should try to find that link when I get time.
(I still think I should have got a "STICKY" for that'n, maybe draw some royalty's.... Edited by the moderators, of course!!)
How many OB'ers are currently reg. here on OB???.....about a gillizion? I don't know if I should post this little secret or not....EVERY reg. OB'er here on this board probably will laugh at me, laugh twice (X2)....wound my spirits or something.
But anyway, couple year ago I needed bunch of fuel line. Being the tightwad I am, & not liking parts store prices, I happened to be in local Farm Supply store. There was the orange 1/4" &3/8" bulk air hose, the plastic, stiffer kind....the kind that twists & kinks& aggravates the living he** outta you! The kind I totally normally despise, But costing about 1/4th per/ft what fuel hose cost. It said "Oil Resistant" on it....soooo, I got to thinking!!
I've had orange colored fuel lines on my rig for about 2 yr now....so far....
There may be orange colored stuff in my IP, injectors, cioated on the pistons....but I haven't seen any Orange colored exhaust smoke out the tailpipe yet
(would this be worth a Tec Sticky????)
Last edited:
ttman4
Last Nite's Dream..
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TC, for just that reason,S&G, for over a year I've had some of the factory plastic line, the stuff running down the frame, in a jar of WVO & another jar of Bio. Also put some orange air line in there too.
Put some of that line that curles round & connects to the lift pump. So far so good. But like the looks of that "liftpump" line the least after soaking this long.
James
93turbo_animal
Registered User
I been running straight WVO for almost a year and a half thru the regular fuel hose and mixing it for about a year and a half before that and the stock fuel lines look fine. As for my system I built a tank and put it in the bed with a 300 watt 12v heater then it goes thru a heat exchanger then I have H-O-H all the way to the stock filter with coils wrapped around it. I also have my veggie return line looped back in to the feed line. It runs fine around 15 degs at night and 20 degs during the day weather but when it was -10 at night I couldn't run it cause it took to long to warm up but if it was warm it would keep it warm.
DeepRoots
Tug Engineer
my fuel line has passed ALOT more fuel.
we collect 100 gallons of veg oil a week, at least 50 gal a week hits this truck in the form of biodiesel or WVO.
all fuel lines are fine.
I added another fuel filter (another 7.3 fuel filter). It is heated by a seperate coolant circuit and lotsa insulation. More pics to come.
everything is still perfect.
this way I can purge in almost no time (as long as it takes for the IP/injectors to purge).
later
Drew
we collect 100 gallons of veg oil a week, at least 50 gal a week hits this truck in the form of biodiesel or WVO.
all fuel lines are fine.
I added another fuel filter (another 7.3 fuel filter). It is heated by a seperate coolant circuit and lotsa insulation. More pics to come.
everything is still perfect.
this way I can purge in almost no time (as long as it takes for the IP/injectors to purge).
later
Drew
93turbo_animal
Registered User
I know I got to have atleast 50K miles on straight WVO no problems and I don't think it could get any simpler either. Dang I don't know how you have time to collect 100 gal a week if your busy driving to use up 50 gal a week in the truck. We get our oil in 300-600 gal quantities and we have hoses on our pump just like whats on the fuel pumps at the filling stations and those hoses have seen atleast 4000 gals of WVO and no breaking down of them yet either
DeepRoots
Tug Engineer
my friend and I collect together.
two duramax's, two 7.3 idi's, Ford 5000 tractor, AllisChambers Forklift, Woodmizer sawmill.
All run on biodiesel, my truck running on wvo as well.
we've gotten it to where the oil is filled in 55gal drums at the resteraunts. This way we pick up the whole drum. Makes it alot easier.
We are still making 55gal drum batches of biodiesel, but are about to build a 275gal reactor out of a stainless steel tank we have.
just need to buy some stainless rods to weld with and we'll be on that.
as far as milage, this is south Ga.... everything is 20miles away. Many of our jobs are up to 100miles away.
two duramax's, two 7.3 idi's, Ford 5000 tractor, AllisChambers Forklift, Woodmizer sawmill.
All run on biodiesel, my truck running on wvo as well.
we've gotten it to where the oil is filled in 55gal drums at the resteraunts. This way we pick up the whole drum. Makes it alot easier.
We are still making 55gal drum batches of biodiesel, but are about to build a 275gal reactor out of a stainless steel tank we have.
just need to buy some stainless rods to weld with and we'll be on that.
as far as milage, this is south Ga.... everything is 20miles away. Many of our jobs are up to 100miles away.
jim_22
Full Access Member
Hi DeepRoots,
I would like to know how you tie into your fuel system between the Greasecar valves and the IP. Right now I run WVO in the front tank-- system is stock except for a Racor heated filter added in front and in series with the Ford filter. It works fine in warm weather but has a long purge time. I would like to maybe add a valve so that WVO and diesel each have their own separate paths and the purge time would be fast. This involves tying into the Ford metal fuel lines and maybe some complications with routing the fuel returns, no? Any information is appreciated.
Jim
I would like to know how you tie into your fuel system between the Greasecar valves and the IP. Right now I run WVO in the front tank-- system is stock except for a Racor heated filter added in front and in series with the Ford filter. It works fine in warm weather but has a long purge time. I would like to maybe add a valve so that WVO and diesel each have their own separate paths and the purge time would be fast. This involves tying into the Ford metal fuel lines and maybe some complications with routing the fuel returns, no? Any information is appreciated.
Jim
DeepRoots
Tug Engineer
cut the metal line going to the IP.
add a T, one fuel line going to each of the filters.
returns are as normal. Under the truck put in a 3port valve. incoming, and two outgoings... one to a bed tank, one to the pollack 6port.
add a T, one fuel line going to each of the filters.
returns are as normal. Under the truck put in a 3port valve. incoming, and two outgoings... one to a bed tank, one to the pollack 6port.
jim_22
Full Access Member
Thanks for the quick reply. So the input is clear. But does the stock return pass though the stock filter (as for example on the MB with its bango bolt, that gets replaced for WVO operation)? Sorry for such an elementary question.
Jim
PS I have much experience running WVO on a 1982 MB but not yet on the Ford.
Jim
PS I have much experience running WVO on a 1982 MB but not yet on the Ford.
DeepRoots
Tug Engineer
kill the return between the filter and #1 injector.
return exits from the back of the ip and the injector returns meet behind the #8 injector. I put the returnline valve on the framerail
return exits from the back of the ip and the injector returns meet behind the #8 injector. I put the returnline valve on the framerail
gdhillon
Full Access Member
1st question: where do i get it? (do you guys just ask restaurants)
2) how do you control how warm your vo is? (if your using engine coolant to heat it?)
3) what kind of blends do you use, and is it diesel that you use to blend with?...i assume for winter blend it would be more diesel than vo
4) if i were to use the front tank for vo, id somehow have to get a heater in there....or could i throw a inline coolant type heater in like in deeproots' set up?
5) do you just get old vo from a restaurant type place and dump it right in tank or does it have to be treated first?
6) is it recommended to run an additive like powerservice in vo tank?
7) whats the shelf life for vo?
Thanks!
2) how do you control how warm your vo is? (if your using engine coolant to heat it?)
3) what kind of blends do you use, and is it diesel that you use to blend with?...i assume for winter blend it would be more diesel than vo
4) if i were to use the front tank for vo, id somehow have to get a heater in there....or could i throw a inline coolant type heater in like in deeproots' set up?
5) do you just get old vo from a restaurant type place and dump it right in tank or does it have to be treated first?
6) is it recommended to run an additive like powerservice in vo tank?
7) whats the shelf life for vo?
Thanks!
BigRigTech
Diesel junky
I installed a golden fuel kit on a 91 Dodge with a Cummins this past summer, 135 gallon semi tank mounted in the back. He bought two Hotfox heaters for the tank and once the truck is warmed up I can see 140F or better at the tank heaters with my temp gun. He drives it daily, no issues yet other than some of the banjo bolt washers seeping. The heaters are nice, the fuel is pulled into the heater as it leaves to go to the engine and the return fuel goes through another heater entering the tank. The fuel and coolant hoses are inside one casing together to keep the heat in. The filter is heater, takes a $10 Raycor cartridge. The veg fuel pump is an air dog I think. It's all run by one switch - on/off/purge....Pretty basic switching controlling 3 valves mounted on the engine. A lot of people get hung up on the fuel being hot entering the injection pump....This is not critical, the extreme pressures created inside the IP will more than heat the fuel enough for it to atomize leaving the injector.
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DeepRoots
Tug Engineer
wow, you dragged this one from the deep! (4 years old post)
If I was you Gdhillion, I would take what I said with a grain of salt. I live in Southern Georgia and you are in Canada.... you will have to take somewhat more extreme measures.
Good luck!
Drew
If I was you Gdhillion, I would take what I said with a grain of salt. I live in Southern Georgia and you are in Canada.... you will have to take somewhat more extreme measures.
Good luck!
Drew
gdhillon
Full Access Member
Haha, ya I like to give the old search button hell once in awhile
Ya, I was thinking running vo in summer would be more practical for me to. My front tank needs to be dropped and cleaned right now (sediment according to the po) So I was thinking to use that one for vo and run a setup similiar to yours and in winter just stick to straight diesel
Thanks!
Gavin
Ya, I was thinking running vo in summer would be more practical for me to. My front tank needs to be dropped and cleaned right now (sediment according to the po) So I was thinking to use that one for vo and run a setup similiar to yours and in winter just stick to straight diesel
Thanks!
Gavin
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