WTH? HEATERCORE!!! @#$@!!!!

[CaptTom]

Hey oil burners!

Been awhile since my last visit, but have a mystery issue going on.

So my heater core goes out about 9 months ago..... easy sneezy repair, takes me longer to fret over it than do the repair, less than an hour.

About a month ago, the new one from Napa goes out again, replaced with another, not happy about it, and this morning, I'm getting coolant smell and fog out of my window defroster again. Third time in less than a year..... beginning to regret how handy I felt replacing this in such short order both times.

Both times I cycled the heating system while it was cold, tried to bleed out the potential air entrapment, but really, the water moves so good in this truck, runs very cold even when hot, I don't think it's a steam issue.

What did I do wrong?

Or is this just cheap crap I'm buying??

THX

 

[Brad S.]

Not trying to be a smart ass, but heater core & California???

Seriously, can you open it up and look for leakage. Maybe just the parts being made cheaply.
Try a pressure test and listen around that area for sounds.

 

[throttle boy]

Had this same problem at work. Ended up being a failed head gasket. Pressurizing the cooling system far to much and causing the weakest link to blow (that being the heater core).

 

[darkbluefoxbody2]

Cheap parts!!! all made off shore, had to replace my 1984 Mustang SVO one every year like clock work, (parked it for this reason) No real parts avail. anymore. try to find a good used one some place, at least F series are easy. Oem replacement Ford ones were made in Mexico too last i checked

 

[icanfixall]

Seems only the oem cores will last in our rigs. I went thru this a few years back buying the aftermarket cores. /Happened twice. So I went back to oem and no more issues.

 

[gandalf]

My memory tells me that Gary is right. The heater core is one of the OEM only items we must deal with. A number of people have tried to aftermarket cores, and had the same experience you're having. The OEM cores may now be made in Mexico (I don't really know, but based on an above post), but they're your best bet

 

[The Warden]

I've been running a Napa core successfully, but I'm also running a 7 psi cap...that may be why it hasn't failed. If/when it does let go, I'll be putting an OEM one in...

 

[icanfixall]

7 lbs... Wimpy wimpy....;p I really don't see the reasons for a 13 or 16 lb cap other than to force the coolant into every nook in the cooling system. Water Wetter by Redline will make the cooling system work very well. Look into what the street rods run as a coolant additive. Theres some great stuff out there to drop more heat out of the engines. Also remember straight water pulls more heat out of the engine than antifreeze will.

 

[jaluhn83]

Can't remember where I got it from, but I've had an aftermarket core for some years (7?) without any issues.

Make sure the hoses are sealing properly and there's nothing stressing the connections - maybe the heater core box is flexing somehow causing stress on the core?

I'd be trying to figure out where it's leaking from and see if there's a pattern.

9 months is way too short even for cheap offshore crap.

Brad, we're a bunch of spoiled wimps out here - got to use the heater cause sometimes it gets down to like 55. Heck, I even had frost on the windshield a few years back... didn't know just what to do so I started at it for a while and then had to call in sick to work.

Also check coolant chemistry and cap pressure.

 

[towcat]

with the sucky new cores, new heater hoses is mandatory in a changeout. why? new hoses absorb vibration from the motor better. another thing I do is zip tie the hoses to the low pressure switch on the AC dryer and that also helps dampen the vibrations. if you look at the instructions that come in the box, it is items that us suggested to do on these diesels.
for those who need visuals on what I'm babbling about, I'll post pics later.

 

[towcat]

7 lbs... Wimpy wimpy....;p I really don't see the reasons for a 13 or 16 lb cap other than to force the coolant into every nook in the cooling system. Water Wetter by Redline will make the cooling system work very well. Look into what the street rods run as a coolant additive. Theres some great stuff out there to drop more heat out of the engines. Also remember straight water pulls more heat out of the engine than antifreeze will.

my entire fleet runs on 7lb caps and I have yet to have a motor cavitate on me let alone overheat on out famous hills around here..

 

[DaytonaBill]

If it is found to be corrosion, try grounding the core...

Ever since I installed a manual hot water cutoff, I haven't had any issues with pinprick leaks...

Just saying...

 

[warhog]

my entire fleet runs on 7lb caps and I have yet to have a motor cavitate on me let alone overheat on out famous hills around here..

Where do i find one of these 7lb caps?? I need a new cap for my flatbed

 

[The Warden]

Where do i find one of these 7lb caps?? I need a new cap for my flatbed

You should be able to get one at any auto parts store. I bought mine on towcat's recommendation, and it's been working perfectly for me for at least 7 years now

 

[CaptTom]

Thanks for the responses fella's.

Smart assed?? I love smart assed! Biggest offender myself!

Yeah, Klownifornia get's a little cool around here sometimes. I live at 2500 feet and the coldest I've had is 19*F. Typically around 35*F in winter, just rarely any snow. Had a light dusting twice in ten years.

But.... it's not the cold I'm so worried about, it's the loss of fluid. I think I've gotta 14lb cap, will change it ASAP.

The original OEM was pressure tested and it leaked under the core cap. Couldn't fix it if I tried. The Napa part has a two piece core cap, the solder blew out in a month at the seam that connects the two pieces together. Inspect your parts before buying them, it's very evident. Right on top in the middle is a brazed seam... missing the good stuff. Second one is the same, haven't pulled it yet to see.... just suspicious.

I'm using the Napa coolant with SCA's already in it, added some of the "ICE" additive to keep temps down, took off a guesstimated 10*F, needle is just above the low mark, rarely goes above the "N" on the gauge, and when it does, only gets to the "R".

Had to replace the AC compressor, it fragged hard! But that was before the new heater core, blows cold as heck too! I replaced all A/C lines, line filter as well as evap. The condenser is working well though. Cleaned out the condenser too.

I may just braze the old Mexico unit before getting a Mexican Ford one..... I mean really, if it's all the same, what's the point? I might pull one in a pick, just to see what happens.

Thanks everyone for the heads up.As always, I knew I could rely on this crew, smart ***** and all, to point me right!



EDIT- forgot to add, my mechanical fan failed earlier this summer, I think the reason my OEM went, got a little hot a few times going up my hill before getting home. I replaced fan with the heavy duty fan- yes, it killed my mileage a bit, and I replaced the thermostat (192*F), and I r/r'd the SCA and added more ICE. Changed oil as well.