WRONG RETURN LINE KIT??

Bako IDI

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soooo....I know I should've checked :rtfm but....:frustrate:frustrate my return lines are leaking, theyre the old crappy braided steel looking ones.. anyways.. I have a '92, and I thought I remembered correctly that the cut off date for the early model type was 1990, so I ordered late model Delphi return line kit with the red clamps thinking all is well.... well.... I was scrolling threw my picks and I had a pic of the return line that connects into the top of my IP and it has the EARLY style (green) clamp on it.........:frustrate|stupid I'm hoping maybe that line is larger or smaller and uses a different clamp? I'm lost as to why it would have the early style on a 1992....

so I'm just curious if anyone can make me feel better before I have to go home and tell the boss (wife) that I spent the last $40 on the wrong kit.....:rotflmao
 

icanfixall

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Just replace that fitting on top of the injection pump with a 1/4 inch barb. Now if your filter head has the bleeder fitting that too MUST be changed and they are around 20 bucks at Oregon fuel injection of portland... Mel also sells this brass bleeder fitting. Or remove it and plug off the hole in the filter head. Doing this may cause the engine to have a difficult time bleeding air from a new filter because all the air now has to pass thru the injection pump.
 

Bako IDI

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Just replace that fitting on top of the injection pump with a 1/4 inch barb. Now if your filter head has the bleeder fitting that too MUST be changed and they are around 20 bucks at Oregon fuel injection of portland... Mel also sells this brass bleeder fitting. Or remove it and plug off the hole in the filter head. Doing this may cause the engine to have a difficult time bleeding air from a new filter because all the air now has to pass thru the injection pump.

ok 1/4 barb no big deal, I was going to replace that anyways because it seams to be leaking out of that fittings from the threads but its tight, so I was going to replace it and put some sealant or something on the threads... now for the bleeder fitting, what do you mean if it has it?... as in if its not blocked off already? you wouldn't happen to have a pic of it would you?

can I only replace the driver side return lines and caps? the #2 injector on the driver side is the only one leaking...granite its basically spraying out everywhere when I'm on the skinny peddle.. but the passenger side is dry and id hate to mess up a good thing lol..
 

Bako IDI

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Just replace that fitting on top of the injection pump with a 1/4 inch barb. Now if your filter head has the bleeder fitting that too MUST be changed and they are around 20 bucks at Oregon fuel injection of portland... Mel also sells this brass bleeder fitting. Or remove it and plug off the hole in the filter head. Doing this may cause the engine to have a difficult time bleeding air from a new filter because all the air now has to pass thru the injection pump.

do you have an idea as to why it would have the early return lines on it?.. I think I read the cut off was mid 1990 when they switched to the newer return lines.... could it have older injectors maybe? or is the hose size really the only difference?
 
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IDIBRONCO

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You shouldn't do that. You can cause another fuel leak by just bumping the return lines when the o rings are older. Also you could cause a leak in one the old fuel lines by moving it when you are install your new ones. Then you won't know it until you get it started back up. It's better to do all of the o rings and return lines as a set.
 

icanfixall

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The engine in this rig may have been replaced by a wrecker engine of earlier year. That may be the reason for smaller return lines. The bleeder line is from the filter head and dumps into the return like system several different places. Mine is dumping in between numbers 1 and 3 injector. I cut into the return line there and installed a plastic tee on my own. No kit has this Tee but any auto parts store carries them.
 

Bako IDI

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The engine in this rig may have been replaced by a wrecker engine of earlier year. That may be the reason for smaller return lines. The bleeder line is from the filter head and dumps into the return like system several different places. Mine is dumping in between numbers 1 and 3 injector. I cut into the return line there and installed a plastic tee on my own. No kit has this Tee but any auto parts store carries them.

here I snapped some pics last night after work.. looks like the clip coming off the filter used to be red, but the others are green... now I'm thoroughly confused....
and would you happen to have the part # for the new bleeder fitting ill have to replace it with?? I figure I can grab a 1/4 barb fitting from an ace? we don't have many places around here that I know of that is open on the weekends or late enough to go to after work that has an extensive choice of fittings... pretty much just parts stores and hardware stores.

also is the fitting closest to you in the picture the bleeder fitting? looks as though its already been plugged?

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DaveBen

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The fitting closest to you, in the second pic, is a schrader valve. It is a tire inflater valve that is used to bleed out air when the filter is changed.
 

towcat

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i have an unopened Diapco early kit from "Typ4". Is your late kit a Diapco kit or what brand is it? If it is, I'm passing through Bakersfield prolly about midnite to 2am if you're really itching to swap out for the right kit.
 

Bako IDI

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i have an unopened Diapco early kit from "Typ4". Is your late kit a Diapco kit or what brand is it? If it is, I'm passing through Bakersfield prolly about midnite to 2am if you're really itching to swap out for the right kit.

my kit is a "late style" Delphi. it should be coming in the mail today, ill have to see when I get home.. do you have a number I can text you? PM me.
 

Bako IDI

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Just replace that fitting on top of the injection pump with a 1/4 inch barb. Now if your filter head has the bleeder fitting that too MUST be changed and they are around 20 bucks at Oregon fuel injection of portland... Mel also sells this brass bleeder fitting. Or remove it and plug off the hole in the filter head. Doing this may cause the engine to have a difficult time bleeding air from a new filter because all the air now has to pass thru the injection pump.

what is the bleeder fitting that your talking about that MUST be changed?? id rather not plug off the hole, might as well do it right the first time or pay for it later.
 

rotarydragon

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For that part you can check with Frank's Brakes as they should carry it...assuming he's still in business. I moved from Bakersfield in 2000. They were out on Fruitvale Ave and carried International and other diesel parts waayyyyy back when I was turning wrenches though that was 25 or so years ago.
 

Bako IDI

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For that part you can check with Frank's Brakes as they should carry it...assuming he's still in business. I moved from Bakersfield in 2000. They were out on Fruitvale Ave and carried International and other diesel parts waayyyyy back when I was turning wrenches though that was 25 or so years ago.

I think hes still in business.. Are you talking about the 1/4 in barb fitting or the bleeder fitting? I know what barb I need but I'm trying to figure out what bleeder fitting I need to swap.
 

Bako IDI

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also does anyone know what size the return line fitting is on top of the IP? I know I need a new 1/4in barb, but just curious if anyone knew what size the threaded end needed to be so I could find it before I start pullin stuff off and then find out I have to order it and wait again... thanks everyone, sorry I have a million and one questions.
 

icanfixall

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The filter bleeder is the fitting off the filter that has the hose running from it. What that does is allows air to bleed out till fuel reaches it. the the voscosity of the fuel forces closed the sprig check valve in the bleeder. Many of the wrecking yard fittings like this are shot so please just buy new from Melor Oregon fuel injection of portland oregon.
 
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