won't start

Boston

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new carrier fuel pump
rebuilt ( or is supposed to be ) IP
checked and rebuilt the glow plug wires
checked and rebuilt the wires going to the fuel shut off solenoids
new glow plugs
new injectors
fresh fuel

Got rotation

sorta it coughs and sputters but won't fire.

So this is what I found when I opened up the IP. Guess which one is supposed to be the new IP fuel shut off and which one is out of the old pump ?

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Hydro-idi

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How did you replace your injection pump? Did you pull off the gear housing?? If so, my guess would be that the timing marks are off and it is struggling to start. If not, keep giving us symptoms and we will narrow it down for you ;Sweet. Also, did you bleed the air out of fuel injector lines prior to starting?
 

Boston

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Its been running for short test drives for almost 6 months now. And no I didn't remove the gear, oh would that have ever been a disaster.

It runs fine once you get it kick started but starting it is a nightmare.

The injector lines were cleaned as well and all the fuel lines are new.

I've attempted to fix the leaky return fuel lines about a dozen times now, seriously about a dozen times at least, I've replaced the o rings four or five times with viton rings I've bought several injector installation kits, I've upgraded all the crimp connectors and no mater what I do it leaks. Which might be the problem but all the cranking in the world won't start it now that I've rebuilt the glow plug wireing. It just coughs a bit but won't start.

I'm getting real good at dismantling the the return lines, cleaning everything off, rebuilding the cross lines and sealing the caps. But regardless of any level of effort, it leaks like a sieve. Once I get the start issue solved I'm going to have to do something to solve this ridiculous return fuel line system problem, but first to make the bastad start consistently. Has anyone ever just welded the holes closed on the injectors and given up on the return system ?

Anyway one question at a time, It starts worse, actually not at all, now that I've "fixed" the glow plug wiring.

my theory is I need an actual rebuilt fuel pump.

but damn if I can find my receipt on this last one.
 

Devon Harley

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Yes taking the gear cover off an gear is a big mess not an easy task one tooth off an you would never get the timming right again tell you get the right tooth.
 

homelessduck

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Have you tried disabling the gp's and shooting a SMALL shot of ether in it?
 

Hydro-idi

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Okay this will be a workout!
With the return line leaks, buy a kit from typ4. His kit will NOT leak. I bought a kit from him and so far not a single leak.
Now with the glowplugs. Are you sure ALL of your plugs are glowing? I would check and re-check system....especially those darn GPC's (they are problematic).
How is your starter cranking the engine? A weak starter will crank engine over, but not fast enough to light it off.
But yes, a bad fuel leak will cause air to get into the fuel injection system. When this happens, you will have a really hard time cranking her over.
And lastly, I would check and/or replace the lift pump. The reason=your truck was running and now all of a sudden it's not. This could be a fuel delivery issue and a weak lift pump will not supply the right amount of fuel to the injection pump. A failing lift pump can also present air into the fuel system. They are also really cheap and easy to install when done properly.
 

Boston

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Its a brand new carrier lift pump, supposed to be indestructible, again I did not remove or even nudge the pump gear. The leak has been there forever, it never prevented starting before. I've been fighting the leak since I bought the truck, Since I'm buying the fourth or fifth return line rebuild kit anyway, I'll try the one suggested. Oh and yes, my starter is a cranking maniac, I've beaten it to death over the last six months but its a runner all the way. And I keep the thing on a charger so I've got full cranking amps.

I'm baffled

All I can think of is its the million dollar pump and I just got robbed on the rebuild. There's just no other explanation that I can think of

Oh and I just replaced the glow plugs but even so, with no glow plugs at 90°+F it should light off anyway.
 

Hydro-idi

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Do you have another IP you could swap it with? That would be a good way to see if the rebuilt one is going sour.
We can rule out the glowplugs, fuel leak, and maybe the lift pump. I would check to see how many psi your fuel system is putting out.
Where did you get your rebuilt IP from??
 

Boston

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and thats the real ******, I can't find the receipt. I bought it on line, off Ebay, I should have several documents about the purchase but for my life I can't find them.

I'm almost positive its a rip off, no one rebuilt it, they just cleaned it up some and sent it out. I did find a number of posts that said e mail no longer valid, and I can only assume that its them and they went out of business after pulling this trick on some number of people.

So since I'm going to have to buy another, I suppose I should ask if there are any reputable rebuilders out there, but frankly, I've grown extremely leery of advice I get online. Basically I've done just about everything on this truck at least twice and some things a dozen or so times. All in all its been a nightmare I wouldn't recommend to my worst enemy.
 

Hydro-idi

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Your ebay account may have some records of you purchasing item but I am not sure. Mel (Agnem) builds performance injection pumps for our trucks. I am not sure how it all works but if you are interested, PM him. He builds quality injectors and pumps.
 

Boston

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the lift pump is putting out enough pressure to cause a bulge in the clear fuel line, IE plenty of pressure. The tanks were dropped and cleaned, all lines replaced, the selector switch cleaned, new filters installed, and the fuel shut off has been checked and double checked so many times its ridiculous. Oh and I just rebuilt the glow plug wires.

No go

Won't start.

turns over just fine, glow plugs seem to be working fine. acts like its not getting fuel. Oh and the only other fuel pump I have is the one I took off it in the first place, and that ones shot as well.

I guess by the lack of further suggestions that we can conclude the worst. I got robbed on the IP and I'm going to have to suck it up cross my fingers and buy another one.

I gotta say, after everything I've been through on this, I should have just left this truck dead in the field where I found it. For all I've spent, I could have just ordered a new VW with a diesel and ran that on my biodiesel.
 
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Boston

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So I went down to the shop today and fiddled around with a few things, didn't really change much. Then I figured its dead anyway, I might as well just turn the key and either get it to start of kill something. It was about the worlds ugliest start but it eventually started. About two minutes of continuous cranking later and one by one cylinders began to fire. talk about smoke, it trashed the whole warehouse. Anyway once lit it will relight without any trouble, until it cools that is, then, no way.

So I'm back to thinking its the glow plugs, which is rediculous cause I just replaced them and rebuilt the wiring. I also just got it to quit all that clicking, it lights up the wait to start light, ten or fifteen seconds later, it goes out, which is exactly what it should do from what I've read.

Anyway since I've done everything else ten times over I guess I'll start from scratch on the glow plugs and see if I can't find any mistakes there, otherwise I'll investigate the hot box method and maybe replace the glow plugs with that. If they are really going to be that much of a pain in the ass.

I mentioned hot box method before but didn't get a single response ? anyone ever converted to that ?????

Oh well, I'll make this bastad run one way or another no mater how long it takes but it would have been nice to actually have ended up with a vehicle out of the deal, little did I suspect I was getting into a yard queen, never runs right, and always soaking up more money.
 

Hydro-idi

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I am sorry that you are having all of these issues with your truck.
As far as the glowplug system, they are fairly straight foward. It consists of glowplugs, relay mounted on passenger fender, glow plug controller mounted on top of engine near back, and the wiring harness.
I have had issues with pretty much all of the above except the wiring harness.
KEY: When you are attempting to start it, do you see lots of white smoke from tailpipe? If so, this means the engine is getting diesel into the cylinders......just cant light it off.
 

Boston

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ya it smokes like a ***** even though its not lit.

I'm going in tomorrow and if i have time I'll start from scratch on the glow plugs. Reclean all the terminals, use fresh contact solution, check all the juice going in, check all the juice going out bla bla bla. and see if I can find an error somewhere.

I gotta say though, this is another system I'd just assume ditch and replace with something functional. 8 glow plugs any one of which could blow out at any moment just doesn't lend a lot of confidence to the system. I'd rather just build a hot box and be done with it. You'd think having just rebuilt the wiring from scratch it would at least have been some improvement, but no way, things worse now than it was before I tried to fix the hard starting issue.
 

Hydro-idi

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Okay well it sounds like we are getting somewhere. You are getting fuel, and lots of it.
I am thinking you may have a wiring and/or relay not kicking on the plugs.
Maybe you should try something. Try unhooking glowplug wires and shooting a sniff of starting fluid in the air intake. If she lights off no problem, you will be sure your IP is okay and know for certain that it happens to be a glow issue
 

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