won't start
- Thread starter Boston
- Start date
I can't remember what type I put in there, pretty sure I got them at auto-zone tho, so whatever brand they sell.
I built a wiring harness for them off the controller and no go, the problems still just keep getting worse and worse. I suspected the contacts, couldn't find the tips going to the GP anywhere. So I used the bullet connector types but they seem to be kinda loose. Oh they snap on but they just don't seem tight enough. Seems like a headache just waiting to happen. Even if I figure out or replace all the rest of the stuff in the system.
So if its about the same price, why wouldn't you just go with the ether system ? Seems like the ether is a sure start every time. Unless I run out of ether that is. With my luck so far, I'll undoubtedly end up changing out everything in the GP system anyway, so it seems reasonable that I just go with the ether system.
I guess I'm not sure why you'd suggest GP over ether, can you explain your logic a bit, cause nothings set in stone yet.
B
I built a wiring harness for them off the controller and no go, the problems still just keep getting worse and worse. I suspected the contacts, couldn't find the tips going to the GP anywhere. So I used the bullet connector types but they seem to be kinda loose. Oh they snap on but they just don't seem tight enough. Seems like a headache just waiting to happen. Even if I figure out or replace all the rest of the stuff in the system.
So if its about the same price, why wouldn't you just go with the ether system ? Seems like the ether is a sure start every time. Unless I run out of ether that is. With my luck so far, I'll undoubtedly end up changing out everything in the GP system anyway, so it seems reasonable that I just go with the ether system.
I guess I'm not sure why you'd suggest GP over ether, can you explain your logic a bit, cause nothings set in stone yet.
B
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
I am thinking it would just be easier to fix the system that you already have. By the way, autolite glowplugs are TERRIBLE. Since you got them from autozone, they most likely will be autolites. They will burn out within a couple of weeks so I would start by replacing all of them if you can get them out. Often times, they will swell up and get stuck in the cylinder head. And if you break one of them off, the head(s) have to come off. No fun for something that could have been prevented using either bosch or beru plugs.
Okay so here is my opinion again. Your glowplugs are shot. New autolites will only last a few weeks anyways. Have you even replaced your GPC and GP relay? If not, you have more than likely found your issue.
An ether system would work, but it is another unnecessary project IMO. International designed the idi to use glowplugs.....so they felt that was the best system for this engine. I run plenty of Jonh Deere tractors that have ether setups from factory, and they felt that the ether setup was best for that engine. Bottum line, it is a simple system and can be fixed with the help of us!
Okay so here is my opinion again. Your glowplugs are shot. New autolites will only last a few weeks anyways. Have you even replaced your GPC and GP relay? If not, you have more than likely found your issue.
An ether system would work, but it is another unnecessary project IMO. International designed the idi to use glowplugs.....so they felt that was the best system for this engine. I run plenty of Jonh Deere tractors that have ether setups from factory, and they felt that the ether setup was best for that engine. Bottum line, it is a simple system and can be fixed with the help of us!
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
BTW, I have replaced glowplugs, the GPC, and relay on my truck and it remained an easy task. Not hard at all. Autozone offers a good GPC for 80 bucks with a lifetime warranty and I got a bwd relay from kragen for 20 bucks
OK well I'm cool with giving it another try, but I've yet to find a complete system diagram with specs for the various components, which means I'm shooting in the dark. Which was why I was thinking of just replacing the whole thing.
I seem to remember using antiseize on the glowplugs so I'm betting I can get them out. I've yet to even break a bolt on this old beast, so cross my fingers. And I've got to get them out for the ether system anyway, assuming I go that rout.
So the question is how much $ is the GPC or the GPR, and whats the specs, and no, I've never actually replaced either, I did however several times check to see if they were live and they were, each does allow the flow of electricity to the plugs. Or at least at the time I checked them they did.
Thanks
B
I seem to remember using antiseize on the glowplugs so I'm betting I can get them out. I've yet to even break a bolt on this old beast, so cross my fingers. And I've got to get them out for the ether system anyway, assuming I go that rout.
So the question is how much $ is the GPC or the GPR, and whats the specs, and no, I've never actually replaced either, I did however several times check to see if they were live and they were, each does allow the flow of electricity to the plugs. Or at least at the time I checked them they did.
Thanks
B
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
Like stated above:
GPC=$80 from autozone with lifetime warranty
GP Relay=$20 from kragen or autozone
Boach glowplugs=$40 from ebay (will include all 8)
I can almost guarentee you are having issues with one or more of these items.
It will not matter if you put anti-sieze on glow plugs. The autolite tips will swell up, making it almost impossible to remove them. I can bet you will have trouble with at least half of them. If you do, be very patient and gentle when trying to remove them. If you break one off, you either remove head(s) like stated above, or you punch tip into cylinder...fire it up..and most likely damage expensive engine parts in the process.
GPC=$80 from autozone with lifetime warranty
GP Relay=$20 from kragen or autozone
Boach glowplugs=$40 from ebay (will include all 8)
I can almost guarentee you are having issues with one or more of these items.
It will not matter if you put anti-sieze on glow plugs. The autolite tips will swell up, making it almost impossible to remove them. I can bet you will have trouble with at least half of them. If you do, be very patient and gentle when trying to remove them. If you break one off, you either remove head(s) like stated above, or you punch tip into cylinder...fire it up..and most likely damage expensive engine parts in the process.
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
The GPC is right behind air intake when you take it off. It will be a rectangular electrical box with wires attached to it. And again, the GP relay is mounted on the side of passenger fender (looks similar to starter relay).
I know exactly where they are, I just don't know what kinda juice they are supposed to be relaying. Which means I've no clue what to look for as I test the system. I can tell they have juice flowing through them, but I've no idea if they are otherwise burned out or not.
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
I do not know the specific numbers in regards to the electrical output. With my system, sometimes my wait to start light would turn on for one second and then turn right off, and glow plugs never did get hot. This only happened some of the time so I figured out it was either the GPC or the relay. If it happened every time I would go to start the engine, then that would tell me one or more glowplugs are burnt out. I ended up replacing all of the glow plug items and it works great.
So here is the order I would go in.
I would immedietely replace ALL the glowplugs with the bosch or beru brands as stated above.
Try system out and see if it works.
If not, I would go with replacing the cheap GP relay and see if that fixes it.
If that doesn't, time for a new GPC.
Either way, I would get those glowers out of there because they can cause all kinds of issues that make some people hate their trucks lol.
So here is the order I would go in.
I would immedietely replace ALL the glowplugs with the bosch or beru brands as stated above.
Try system out and see if it works.
If not, I would go with replacing the cheap GP relay and see if that fixes it.
If that doesn't, time for a new GPC.
Either way, I would get those glowers out of there because they can cause all kinds of issues that make some people hate their trucks lol.
I've gotta run the truck tomorrow or the next day, but I'll pull the glow plugs over the weekend and see if I screwed myself with cheap plugs or not.
I'll let em sit with some breakfree blaster on it and then try and remove them, but if I remember I put some anti sieze stuff on them so I should be good, that and they don't have many miles on them anyway.
I'll let em sit with some breakfree blaster on it and then try and remove them, but if I remember I put some anti sieze stuff on them so I should be good, that and they don't have many miles on them anyway.
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
Goodluck with the truck. Like stated above, you will not have issues with the threads on the glowplugs, but the tips will swell making them difficult to remove
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:...-B2I4UgCwJlpd9OjxymOKdICZFg8kHyGibzxIFvLKCY7g
http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:...-B2I4UgCwJlpd9OjxymOKdICZFg8kHyGibzxIFvLKCY7g
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I tried Autolites when I bought my first idi. Right after I installed them I hopped on OB and read about my mistake. I went to pull them out and one was already swollen enough to fight me. That was after starting the truck about two times just to see if they worked.
yikes
well lets hope I'm not one of the unfortunate ones
I'll use the break free stuff thats been working for me so far, and if I think its taking to much pressure I'll try freezing them in a warm block. but I'd really love to avoid removing the heads.
My theory is that the simplest method is best, playing with temp almost always works, unless you get it so cold it fractures,
wish me luck
B
well lets hope I'm not one of the unfortunate ones
I'll use the break free stuff thats been working for me so far, and if I think its taking to much pressure I'll try freezing them in a warm block. but I'd really love to avoid removing the heads.
My theory is that the simplest method is best, playing with temp almost always works, unless you get it so cold it fractures,
wish me luck
B
89dieselbko
Full Access Member
AHA i knew i would find it!
http://www.oilburners.net/articles/glowplugbypass.htm
How to do manual set up. Obs you still need to replace your glow plugs at the very least. I personally love my manual setup, and its only 1 ground wire to run! After i freshen up my 7.3 over the winter months, ill be adding the WTS light (just incase for some stupid reason my button sticks on). The article explains what each part does, even guides you through changing stuff out. From my understanding, running the manual bypasses the controller, so that saves you money if you go that route, and being only 1 wire, its super simple (heck my 3 year old helped me do mine hehe) and i have had no issues in about... 3 months... until my IP decided it really didnt want to continue working... and a slight diesel smell to my oil telling me either my lift pump is bad, or my IP **** the bed in more then one way at once!
http://www.oilburners.net/articles/glowplugbypass.htm
How to do manual set up. Obs you still need to replace your glow plugs at the very least. I personally love my manual setup, and its only 1 ground wire to run! After i freshen up my 7.3 over the winter months, ill be adding the WTS light (just incase for some stupid reason my button sticks on). The article explains what each part does, even guides you through changing stuff out. From my understanding, running the manual bypasses the controller, so that saves you money if you go that route, and being only 1 wire, its super simple (heck my 3 year old helped me do mine hehe) and i have had no issues in about... 3 months... until my IP decided it really didnt want to continue working... and a slight diesel smell to my oil telling me either my lift pump is bad, or my IP **** the bed in more then one way at once!
Boston, go to this link, follow his instructions and you will find a bunch of diagrams.
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/2025546-post2.html
http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/2025546-post2.html
