WMO system almost there, keep getting air driving

[shorthair]

I just have to ask why ??
It seems like you are trying to solve a problem that should not exist, I've been running WMO in rates as high as 90% with no problems thus far ( 40k miles to date ) no mods to the truck all I do is filter well in one of my 55 gal barrels for about an hour using a 2 micron water separator running of a Tuthill 18Qpm pump then add it top my tank.

 

[kerrynzl]

WMO

Hey I'm curious about your 90 / 10 WMO blend [ any info and advice would be appreciated ]
Contrary to all the negative opinions out there, Diesel's love running on WMO.
WMO is the only alternative fuel I know of that increases HP [ vs Biodiesel or SVO in diesels, or LPG or CNG in Gasoline engines where there is approx 10% loss ]
I have witnessed Generators in villages in China going all day on 100% WMO with no problems. They simply clean the oil through a series of filters using a gravity feed arrangement [ Gravity is free and operates 24/7 vs a centrifuge ]
The secret is Viscousity and Heat to get a clean combustion, I am curious about the performance of your 90% blend while the engine is cold
My Mitsubishi diesel requires 3-1/2 miles driving from start up before the temp guage is normal [ driving to work in my city is an average of 8 miles ] so 40% of the trip would be on Diesel before switching over to WMO [ then it is purged again when swiched off, using a "Turbo-Timer"]
These statistics would make it more economical to blend 70/30 than to run a 2 tank 100% system.
Long distances wont be an issue at all
So I am trying to figure out a "fast heating" system ,and also a way to pump cold WMO from the tank to the IP [ Mitsubishi's don't have a lift pump ]

 

[91f2504x4]

You can get adhesive tank heaters, or oil pan heaters, and stick one or two of those to the bottom of you fuel tank. They come in household 120V or 12v to run off your vehicle's batteries. If you were wanting to heat you oil up prior to starting the same as you do your engine when you plug it in , I would grab one or two 120v tank heaters and stick them to the bottom of your tank and just plug them in a couple hours before you want to leave. My rear tank has 20 feet of 1/2' copper line cooled in it that has coolant running through it, then I rapped the tank in insulation and rubber. I could have probably gotten along without it by just dropping the % of WMO and raising the % diesel, but I was trying to make everything easier on the pumps, so far they are doing fine. I am running 2 holley red pumps, one right at the back tank and then another on the frame rail in front of the selector valve. Everything is filtered and regulated up front before going into the IP. My rear pump only comes on when I switch to the rear tank. The front one is on whenever the engine is running.

 

[shorthair]

I run up to 90% wmo in the warmer months but drop back to 50% in the winter as the higher ratio can be a bit stubborn to start on a cold morning.