IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Man, it sounds like you have quite a crime problem for that size of a town.
With & Without Brakes
- Thread starter JASTECH
- Start date
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
If your vacuum is good, the line from the vacuum tee to your booster is good, then you need your booster replaced or repaired to restore your power brakes.
Ditto on what Franklin2 said.
1) Pedal sinks a little and gets hard to push is usually you have a bad vacuum pump or a bad brake booster.
2) Pedal goes to the floor. Most common is the master cylinder but brake lines or components leaking can also cause this. If you ever have bled brakes you know how it goes.
Many have experienced that after flushing brakes or bleeding brakes the abs light is on. Some have had luck bleeding the brakes at the abs valve under the truck other have not and replaced or bypassed it.
The diesel leaking and hard starting usually go hand in hand. Once you have a air leak your system drains back to the tank and looses prime. It takes a while for the lift pump to fill everything up again and once you start it runs a little rough till all the air bleeds out. Use some rags and brake clean to clean around the injectors to see which ones leak and fix. Also check your metal injector line fittings that they are all snug at the pump and the injectors. Also that the fuel filter is tight. It is likely once you fix your leak you will start right up after sitting again.
You also said at times when cold out it will not start. That sounds more like a glow plug problem than your air leak. Your wait to start light should go on for at least 8-15 seconds while your glow plugs warm up. If it does not go on or just goes on for 1 sec then off, you have an issue. Most frequent is you have 3 or more glow plugs that are bad, so on a 7.3 it senses that (Senses a change of resistance or amps) and shuts off after 1 sec as a precaution. You can check the glow plugs on the engine with a ohm meter. Unplug, hold one lead on a good ground, the other on the top glow plug post. Some resistance is good but no resistance/open it’s bad. Use only Motorcraft glow plugs others swell or balloon and become hard to remove. If all are good then check if your wiring to and from the glow plug controller is good. One side is the glow plug wiring harness which can get old and brittle. Feeding power to the glow plug controller are the fusible links and lead wiring supplying 12v to the relay on the controller. These can have bad connections or short out and cause issues. Lastly check the controller to make sure it is functioning. They do go bad on occasion.
Sorry to hear about all your challenges, but it sounds like your luck is starting to change with your friends wife offering up some of his gear to you.
Ditto on what Franklin2 said.
1) Pedal sinks a little and gets hard to push is usually you have a bad vacuum pump or a bad brake booster.
2) Pedal goes to the floor. Most common is the master cylinder but brake lines or components leaking can also cause this. If you ever have bled brakes you know how it goes.
Many have experienced that after flushing brakes or bleeding brakes the abs light is on. Some have had luck bleeding the brakes at the abs valve under the truck other have not and replaced or bypassed it.
The diesel leaking and hard starting usually go hand in hand. Once you have a air leak your system drains back to the tank and looses prime. It takes a while for the lift pump to fill everything up again and once you start it runs a little rough till all the air bleeds out. Use some rags and brake clean to clean around the injectors to see which ones leak and fix. Also check your metal injector line fittings that they are all snug at the pump and the injectors. Also that the fuel filter is tight. It is likely once you fix your leak you will start right up after sitting again.
You also said at times when cold out it will not start. That sounds more like a glow plug problem than your air leak. Your wait to start light should go on for at least 8-15 seconds while your glow plugs warm up. If it does not go on or just goes on for 1 sec then off, you have an issue. Most frequent is you have 3 or more glow plugs that are bad, so on a 7.3 it senses that (Senses a change of resistance or amps) and shuts off after 1 sec as a precaution. You can check the glow plugs on the engine with a ohm meter. Unplug, hold one lead on a good ground, the other on the top glow plug post. Some resistance is good but no resistance/open it’s bad. Use only Motorcraft glow plugs others swell or balloon and become hard to remove. If all are good then check if your wiring to and from the glow plug controller is good. One side is the glow plug wiring harness which can get old and brittle. Feeding power to the glow plug controller are the fusible links and lead wiring supplying 12v to the relay on the controller. These can have bad connections or short out and cause issues. Lastly check the controller to make sure it is functioning. They do go bad on occasion.
Sorry to hear about all your challenges, but it sounds like your luck is starting to change with your friends wife offering up some of his gear to you.
JASTECH
Registered User
OK, just checked. I followed the large hose to a diverter on firewall. Followed small hose to a diaphragm with 2 wires on right wheel well, started engine, then disconnected small hose from diaphragm and plugged it on to gauge, nothing. So I looked in the gauge kit and seen larger brass adapter. I reconnected small hose to fender well diaphragm, then disconnected large hose from multi vacuum connection, inserted brass adapter, then hose to gauge. With engine still running.
Attachments
JASTECH
Registered User
Yes sir, about 250 live here, I chased one druggy with my diesel. The property I have behind my house is about 3 acres, was told they sell and do drugs back there. My dogs would fire up between 23:30 and 2. I'd go out with flash light and gun. Then 4 dogs died in 4 weeks poisoned, and a bit after that one was shot in the head. And all this theft. Here are "some" photos of what we've been through, not included is this last month. Just go down to the "imgur" link and click for pics.
Please Help Me Protect My Animals, organized by John Steninger
Hello, my name is John. I am a single parent raising my fourteen-year-old son alone a… John Steninger needs your support for Please Help Me Protect My Animals
www.gofundme.com
JASTECH
Registered User
Just used credit card and ordered a new air pump from AutoZone @ $142. It'll be there in the morning, they are about 35 miles from me. I'll buy new hose for it too, the old one is a bit stiff. Hopefully that fixes the break issue, I can't afford the master cylinder. Read online that most purchased from O'Riley didn't work.
JASTECH
Registered User
The glow plug light stays on about 15 seconds. When the mech changed the hoses and "O" rings on the injectors, he said they were stamped 1997 if I recall correctly.
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Sounds like your glow plug system is working then. Start with the air leak. Likely your glow plugs are cooling off due to how long it takes to get your lines reprimed.
Be sure to use a power steering puller to pull off and put on your pulley on your vacuum pump. It will look like you can use a gear puller but you will likely bend the pulley and have to buy a new one. Many members, including me, thought we could do it it another way but damaged the pulley. Auto parts store might lend/rent you one.
On your air leak. The age of the metal injector is usually not an issue because it is metal. It’s usually the plastic return line caps, their o-rings, or the rubber lines that have a crack or leak. Its possible, but I never have seen the metal injector be the cause. But if you find an injector leaking replace it. Sometimes the metal injector lines are not tight or the line cracks and leaks. So look at the injector lines.
Be sure to use a power steering puller to pull off and put on your pulley on your vacuum pump. It will look like you can use a gear puller but you will likely bend the pulley and have to buy a new one. Many members, including me, thought we could do it it another way but damaged the pulley. Auto parts store might lend/rent you one.
On your air leak. The age of the metal injector is usually not an issue because it is metal. It’s usually the plastic return line caps, their o-rings, or the rubber lines that have a crack or leak. Its possible, but I never have seen the metal injector be the cause. But if you find an injector leaking replace it. Sometimes the metal injector lines are not tight or the line cracks and leaks. So look at the injector lines.
JASTECH
Registered User
Update: AutoZone called a little past 10:00. Drove the 35 miles. They used a 3-prong puller and bent my pulley but didn't remove it. We walked to Ford dealer and they stated it takes a special tool to remove and install the pulley. So they did it and charged me $20. Installed new vacuum pump, started engine and plugged in vacuum tester, it went way past the green. Looked at pulley and it could win the twerking class! So, mgr came out and looked, they ordered a new pulley and it'll be in Thursday. I told him its $20 to R&R the pulley, he said OK. Don't need to push the brake pedal! Yes, we looked like bobbleheads! Question: what else does the vacuum pump run?
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JASTECH
Registered User
Big Bart, I just read your post. Chalk up the AutoZone mgr to the list too, lol
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Assuming that everything is functional, it also runs the cruise control, the HVAC doors that control where the air comes out (dash, floor, defrost), and, if equipped, it partly controls the shift points in a C6 transmission. That's it as far as I know.
JASTECH
Registered User
Ah, thought my AC doors were cable like my 73' Scout. Its a 5-speed but it does have cruise control, now I'll have to try it, Lol
Thanks guys! Should I post pic of vacuum gauge reading after new pump?
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Sure if you feel like it.
JASTECH
Registered User
JASTECH
Registered User
Ran AC on the way home, it was colder! Doors must have not been moving, lol
JASTECH
Registered User
I keep hearing chirps when turning wheels sharp or hitting turn stops. Been adding stop leak, think its time for power steering pump too, its original. So, looking at pulley puller kits. Any suggestions? Harbor Freight, Lisle, OTC, PowerBuilt?
