Will T19 Transfer case bolt to ZF5? (84' Auto to 5-speed conversion.)

IDIBRONCO

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Is this OK to run?
I'm no expert, but I would say that since there's no forward and backward movement after the transfer case is bolted up, you'll be fine. Whoever told you that your NP 208 wouldn't work because it came from behind an automatic didn't know what they were talking about. Ford transfer cases were pretty interchangeable during these years. It's the outputs that may require changing driveshaft parts.
 

franklin2

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All Ford full size transfer cases bolt up to all Ford full size 4x4 transmissions, regardless of year. Until you get to the newer 6 speed stuff. I think some of the superduty stuff is different with different shaft diameters.
 

jibronee

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Ok, so I'm finally back at it. You guys are correct; TC from auto and 4speed bolt up to zf5.

I sent my 6.9 flywheel out to be surfaced and I might have screwed this up. I have a good/used 88', 11"-clutch disc with 5-spring set up with matching pressure plate which will bolt to my 6.9 flywheel (6-mounting holes). I went this way to keep 6.9 flywheel balanced with my 6.9. But I'm seeing the aftermarket DMF to SMF conversion kits all have a 12" clutch disc with 10-springs with the 8-hole mounting pattern. And some replacement clutch discs listed for SMF's have the 5-spring, 11"-disc and 6-hole mounting pattern. Do the 10-spring discs help prevent roll-over/noise, etc from SMF? (I'm seeing that DMF clutch discs are solid).

Should I try my low mile, used 11" set up? Or should I have to buy the conversion kit with flywheel which same kit lists fits 87' to early 90's?

Thanks!!!
 

IDIBRONCO

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Should I try my low mile, used 11" set up? Or should I have to buy the conversion kit with flywheel which same kit lists fits 87' to early 90's?
The answer here is that it depends on what you plan to do with the truck. If you plan to pull heavy fairly often, then the bigger clutch would be the better way to go. Otherwise, I'd use the low mileage one that you already have. I don't think that the number of springs in the clutch will affect the rollover noise either way. The noise comes from the fact that the springs are in the clutch and not the flywheel. The noise doesn't occur unless the clutch is engaged (pedal isn't being pushed) and you're moving at a very low engine RPM. While some people are greatly bothered by the noise, I don't think that it's too bad. It doesn't bother me at all. To me, it's just another noise coming out of an engine that's noisy anyway.
 

jibronee

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I figure the 6.9 with 4speed came with a solid flywheel, so I'll use my solid, surfaced flywheel on my 6.9 with the zf5; and go with my low mileage clutch kit.

So I finally picked up the last of my gaskets to reseal oil pan, timing gear cover, front/rear crank seal, etc. I noticed that my fuel pump lobe is worn about 1/16" of an inch. It looks like it's carved out due to lack of oil. Is this lobe replaceable? Can I just pull the middle gear off and replace lobe without having to remove anything else? The pic makes is look worse. The fuel pump lever is pretty worn as well. What makes this lobe wear so much? Would a new pump take care of it? I'm not going to be putting many miles on truck, but in the future I don't want to be stranded either. Is there a reason the lobe wears?

01 6.9 fuel pump cam lobe.jpg

01 6.9 fuel pump.jpg
Thanks for the advice guys!!
 

IDIBRONCO

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That lobe is replacable, but I'm not sure if they are still being made. It seems that someone else was having trouble finding new ones. I may be wrong on that one. While I'm sure that it could be replaced while the cam in still in the engine, it would be MANY times easier to do it while the cam is out. Disclaimer: I've never tried to remove the lobe with the cam in the engine so it may be easier that I think it is. I do know that it and the gear are pressed on and don't come off very easily. At least the gear doesn't. I don't think that the wear if from a lack of oil. There really isn't any oil that gets onto the lobe except from splashing off of the gears. They wear from repeated turning against the fuel pump arm. The arm and the lobe rub together every time that the cam turns a revolution. If your engine is running at 1000 RPM, then they are being ribbed together 500 times every minute. That's a lot even with a film of oil. 1/16" isn't very much wear. I had about that much on mine when I overhauled my engine about three years ago and I didn't have an issue reusing my lobe.
 

TNBrett

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I think you’re probably ok to run it like it is, and replace the lift pump if it makes you feel better. I would not try and remove it or replace it. If you don’t like the idea of using that lobe the way it is, then the best alternative would be an electric lift pump.


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franklin2

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I figure the 6.9 with 4speed came with a solid flywheel, so I'll use my solid, surfaced flywheel on my 6.9 with the zf5; and go with my low mileage clutch kit.

Just making sure you are not using a solid 6.9/4speed flywheel for your zf conversion. You are using a solid zf conversion flywheel you had resurfaced? The 4 speed flywheel will not fit the zf.
 

jibronee

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Well, I pulled the lobe off my parts truck last night. There wasn't an injection pump so wasn't worried about timing. Camshaft gear came off with puller, but was pretty tight. Lobe came off pretty easily (email me [email protected]) for video as it's too big to upload). It didn't seem that bad at all (off course it's way easier to tear shit apart then put it back together!!). Why do you guys recommend not replacing it? Is there something I'm missing (man, I hope not!!)?
 

jibronee

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Franklin2, yeah I had my 6.9 flywheel resurfaced and I'm tackling this project next 3 days. Damn!! Did I screw up?!! 6.9 flywheel fit 7.3 clutch set up. Is 6.9 flywheel thinner than conversion flywheel and DMF?
 

TNBrett

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Well, I pulled the lobe off my parts truck last night. There wasn't an injection pump so wasn't worried about timing. Camshaft gear came off with puller, but was pretty tight. Lobe came off pretty easily (email me [email protected]) for video as it's too big to upload). It didn't seem that bad at all (off course it's way easier to tear shit apart then put it back together!!). Why do you guys recommend not replacing it? Is there something I'm missing (man, I hope not!!)?
I pulled the cam gear and lobe off of the camshaft from the original engine in my truck. I seem to remember the gear being on there pretty tight. Tight enough that it would be easy to damage something. I sure wouldn’t want to do it with the cam still in the engine. If you did it that way I’m impressed, but what would be your plan for getting it back on? My point wasn’t that it couldn’t be done, but that it probably wasn’t worth the effort in my opinion.


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jibronee

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TNbrett, you're right! The gear was really tight and I used a puller to remove it. The lobe came off fairly easy. But I used an impact/driver on puller for both pieces. I figure I'd just thread a stud back into cam, then use a coupler nut and washer(s) to press lobe and gear back on. I'm going to try this on my parts engine first and see if it works. See pics

On another note. Franklin2!!!! You're right!!!! 6.9 flywheel is @ 1/2" thinner then DMF (check out pic). Damn!!! I think molatin mentioned earlier that he extended the slave cyl rod 5/8" and it worked fine. I'll look into this, but first need to get engine back together.
lobe on cam lh.jpg cam no lobe.jpgcam with lobe rh.jpg cam no lobe rh.jpg
 

franklin2

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As long as it does not mess up the geometry of the throwout bearing arm. And then you may need to make your clutch linkage adjustable under the dash. I hate do-overs. But sometimes you have to back up and try again.
 

IDIBRONCO

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One more thing to consider. You will have to install the cam gear AND make sure that it's in time with the crank gear. If it isn't, then you'll have to slide the cam forward to get it in time with the crank gear. In that case, you'll be thinking that you should have just pulled it out in the first place since you'll be doing all of the same steps as removing it in the first place. You just won't have to pull it out all the way. Of course you could pull the gear back off, move the cam, and try it again, but you already know how hard it is to get that gear off in the first place. I wouldn't recommend trying it, but you're welcome to try it that way. At the shop I worked at, with the cam out of the engine, we would place the back end of the cam on a rag covering a wood block. Then we'd drive the gear all the way on with a brass drift. Just as an extra safety precaution, we would use red Lock Tite on the cam bolt threads. Blue would probably be enough to hold it on. Here again, I didn't question, I just did as I was told.
 

jibronee

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I was able to press cam gear back on my parts engine with a piece of 7/16-20 all thread and nut/washers. But I'm having real back luck with this swap. When I picked up my flywheel at machine shop Fri, I left my good, less worn lobe on the counter!! hahahaha!!! I just have to laugh about it now cause I have three solid days to put engine back together and boss is letting me use shop and fork lift! Oh well, I'll button engine back up with worn/grooved lobe and that's that. It was still working/pumping anyways.

I'll do baby steps and just get engine back in truck first, then deal with my flywheel screw up. Maybe I'll lengthen slave rod or alter clutch fork when I get there. I really want to get this buttoned up by Mon!!
 

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